another primer question. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:12 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Con't
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Delevan, NY
Age: 66
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
another primer question.

I'm a first time builder and just recently joined this site - this is my first post. I've been reading some of the info on primers and my understanding is :
The consensus seems to be to use epoxy primer on bare metal then 2k to fill/blocksand. I'm a ways along on my 35 and now am wondering if I screwded up. I took the body down to bare (one section at a time), did my hammering and welding, then body filler. When I was satisfied I primed with Evercoat Durabuild. Blocksanded, recoat, , blocksanded more etc. When satisfied I covered it with Nason fullpoxy. Thats where I'm at now and pray my procedures are acceptable. I'm not looking to go to the Oakland roadster show with it, but have enough pride that I'd like it to look decent for cruiseing. How much trouble am I in? Thanks in advance.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 10:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: portland oregon
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
For me it is always best to expoy over bare metal first..in your case if you are sure all rust is treated under bodywork (if any at all) you should be fine. Sounds like you are doing just s/b fine with no reprocussions....FYI I have epoxy'd before and after 2k primer and I have no reprocussions after 11 years now....Greg If you have any more questions ask me..c if i can help..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 10:59 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Some like to epoxy bare steel then do body work, some like to do body work on bare steel then epoxy. Either way works and is acceptable practice. I am not familiar with what you put on the epoxy, if it's a 2K catalyzed primer that is fine.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:36 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Con't
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Delevan, NY
Age: 66
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm not real sure what 2k primer is - I think it needs hardener/catalyst added to it. If so - the stuff I used is not. Its a high build thats just thinned with laquer thinner. You guys are making me feel a little more comfortable, thanks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 05:43 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
If what you used is not 2K (catalyzed polyurethane) I would remove it and use a quality 2K primer/surfacer. Sounds like you just used lacquer primer which is not desirable for a CC/BC paint job.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 07:03 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Your sequence of pre prep is not the best but you have effectivly sealed the lac primer with the epoxy creating a good barrier as well as a solid surface to paint over.Not the greatest,but still usable without stripping it all down.
Problem will be that the Nason epoxy will sand like concrete shortly as it cures out,soTHAT is going to be your main concern now.
It will last and not be worth "starting over" IMO as I've use nason over lacquer myself so carry on and get to finish sanding as SOON as possiable as the epoxy WILL have peel to it and NOT be a perfect surface to shoot paint on. You'll have to wet sand as dry will eat paper for days,Been there,done it with Nason.After it cures,you'll do good to cut it with 80gt.dry on a roDA.
As you said,Not going to be a Top Gun selected piece of work but you should be able to have a respectable job anyway.
If you run into issues sanding the epoxy,you can always shoot a good 2K sealer for a smoother surface for your paint.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 07:21 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Con't
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Delevan, NY
Age: 66
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks, as the whole car is covered with the laquer primer I'm not real anxious to sand it off unless really necessary. If I sand the epoxy sooner is it easier? (how soon?) . I was planning to wet sand with 600 - sounds like I'm dreaming. I havent decided what to use for a top coat yet.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:20 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Did you use the 16 or 35 epoxy?
I'm refering to the older 16 and usually,you had a month tops before it got really hard,wait 3-4 and it's TOUGH.
I've not used the low VOC 35 so I don't know.
Like I said,Sooner,the better.
The 600 will be fine BUT,you may need to initially cut with 320 or even 220 if it's slow going,then finish it with the 600.
It really comes down to WHAT paint your using,
You can always guide coat it,cut with a coarse grit leaving just a trace of peel/guide and finish it down with the 4-600. THis way your assured of removing the rougher scratch and a smooth surface to paint over.
I always wet the surface down with a waterbourn grease & wax remover in a squirt bottle to mist it on as this applies uniformly and wastes less product and SEE what my scratch pattern is after sanding and correct as needed or you can use a 50/50 mix of 70% alcohol and water as well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2009, 06:02 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Con't
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Delevan, NY
Age: 66
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
not sure which - paint slopped on label where it says. Looked at your journal - awesome!!!!!! Maybe I'll try that stuff on my project (I do a lot of dreaming).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2009, 07:09 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Much appreciated.
And yeah,It's dreaming that got me to there.
I was as dumb and inexperienced as anyone,but I had a "drive" to try this and believe me,it's not as hard as people believe.
Do some homework and ask a LOT of questions and get in there and DO IT.
You want to learn.Just ask me as well as others that are around and trust me,it's easier than you think.
I got hooked up with some of the earlier custom guys who I still keep in touch with and THEY schooled me as well as gettig "dirty" and just trying.
It's a simple matter of what YOU want to accomplish.Heck,It's just "paint" and if you screw up,there is always sandpaper.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Maaco vs. At-Home Paint Job nightrain_rod Body - Exterior 127 08-26-2012 03:07 AM
Primer Question eagle24 Body - Exterior 1 12-20-2005 03:11 PM
spri primer shipping question, clear gooo on containers pigman Body - Exterior 8 08-23-2005 10:32 AM
Lacquer primer question badriand Body - Exterior 18 07-23-2004 03:08 PM
Quickie primer question Bluepen Body - Exterior 1 05-21-2003 05:33 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.