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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31fordcoupe
Look foward to seeing the pics of your progress.
Don't forgrt the bolts under the rear seat, abobe the coupling plate for your shift linkage. Also, you have a bolt on top of the rear shock towers, one on each side. You may have to scrape some years of dirt,mud,rust etc to access them.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2011, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31fordcoupe
Look foward to seeing the pics of your progress.

Well, today was pretty productive. Got my engine mounts tack welded in place. Tomorrow, if all goes well, I will hook up my 700R4 trannie to my dummy engine and install transmission crossmember,again. I welded my first set of motor mounts in the wrong position, hence, the trannie crossmember was in the wrong place. Once all looks well with all of the mockup, I will remove the trans and dummy engine and reinstall my new 350. Here are some pics when engine was in the wrong position. Floors are just sitting in place. I am hoping this will be a real 'sleeper'. Oughta run pretty good with 330 horse in a 94.5 inch whhelbase, roughly 2,500 pound car.





















































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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2011, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Square
Well, today was pretty productive. Got my engine mounts tack welded in place. Tomorrow, if all goes well, I will hook up my 700R4 trannie to my dummy engine and install transmission crossmember,again. I welded my first set of motor mounts in the wrong position, hence, the trannie crossmember was in the wrong place. Once all looks well with all of the mockup, I will remove the trans and dummy engine and reinstall my new 350. Here are some pics when engine was in the wrong position. Floors are just sitting in place. I am hoping this will be a real 'sleeper'. Oughta run pretty good with 330 horse in a 94.5 inch whhelbase, roughly 2,500 pound car.





















































Looks like it's coming along. Very nice work from the looks of it. I still have a ways to go before I get to that point.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2011, 11:07 PM
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The Body is Free!

Well got to work on the Bug for an hour or so today. I got a call from a company that I had do the VIN clearance, and come to find out, the Bug is a 1971 and not a 1972. Not a big deal either way. As soon as my State record check gets here, I will have a VIN inspection done on it, get a title bond insurance, and then off to get it titled and registered in my name. Need to start thinking of a vanity plate name........

I have been going to a very informative website that details a bunch of different processes for Beetle repair / maintenance. If any of you Beetle owners are interested, this is the thread I used to help me with the body removal:

http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/jun.htm

Started the day on the Bug by removing the four 13mm bolts that were under the back seat (two on each side).




Next step was to remove the 17mm bolt near each rear shock tower.




Final step was to remove the steering coupling.




Right after that, Superman showed up and Lois Lane took a picture of him lifting up the front end of my bug.




So this is what the bug looks like now. I will get a couple of buddies to help me move the body off the chassis this weekend (since Superman left before I could ask him to do it).




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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2011, 11:08 PM
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Look's cool so far to me too....
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2011, 11:15 PM
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Rear Fender Ideas

Want to know what you guys think. I was contemplating putting fiberglass fenders on the rear just so I could get a little fatter tire under the rear. From outside tire to outside tire, the distance is currently about 59 inches. I was thinking about getting a 2" wider fender on each side but not certain if it would make the rear of the bug look to funky. If I did, I would want to widen the running boards near the rear so that the body lines flow a little more smoothly, but that that will be no big deal as I plan on putting on custom running boards anyway. Give me your thoughts please gents....

Here are some shots of the rear of the bug so you can get an idea of how it looks now and what i might look like with 2" wider fenders on each side. I have some 15x10 Centerlines for it and I also have some 15x12 Centerlines I could use. And come to think of it, I also have a complete set of Convo Pros with the rears being 15x15. I love the fully tubbed pro-street look on cars, just not certain if it will make my Bug look to funny. Guess I will have to look at some more bugs to get a better idea.








Last edited by 31fordcoupe; 11-02-2011 at 11:30 PM.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2011, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31fordcoupe
Want to know what you guys think. I was contemplating putting fiberglass fenders on the rear just so I could get a little fatter tire under the rear. From outside tire to outside tire, the distance is currently about 59 inches. I was thinking about getting a 2" wider fender on each side but not certain if it would make the rear of the bug look to funky. If I did, I would want to widen the running boards near the rear so that the body lines flow a little more smoothly, but that that will be no big deal as I plan on putting on custom running boards anyway. Give me your thoughts please gents....

Here are some shots of the rear of the bug so you can get an idea of how it looks now and what i might look like with 2" wider fenders on each side. I have some 15x10 Centerlines for it and I also have some 15x12 Centerlines I could use. And come to think of it, I also have a complete set of Convo Pros with the rears being 15x15. I love the fully tubbed pro-street look on cars, just not certain if it will make my Bug look to funny. Guess I will have to look at some more bugs to get a better idea.







I personally like the "stock"look, fender wise. You are making your own frame,right? I assume that you will be narrowing a rear end, so, when narrowing, figure how you want the tire/wheel combination to look with a stock fender and then you can run it that way. That is what I am doing with my Squareback project.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2011, 11:00 PM
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Yeah the more I look at it, the more I think I am just going to stick with the stock fenders. I am going to narrow a 9" for the rear and I should be able to fit 12" wide wheels without much of a problem. If 12's won't make it, I will just use the 10's I have.

I have another question though that I want to get some opinions on....

Since I am fabricating the frame (ordered 40' of 2"x3"x3/16" wall rectangular steel last week which should be in on Monday or Tuesday), I wanted to get some opinons on what you guys think will be the best front end suspension for the build.

The only real requirements that the front end suspension / steering / brakeing must have is 1) disc brakes, 2)make the thing go straight down the track, 3) be decent at weight transfer and 4) won't take a doctorate in engineering to figure out and design.

I initially thought about a Mustang II front end, but I have to believe there is a much cheaper way than spending $1200-$2000 on a front end. Anyone have any suggestions on what would be a relatively cheap front end to put on my Bug build that wont break the bank and will still meet my four requirements above? I am open to any idea (old school engineering or new) and would prefer to get most of the parts out of the junk yard if possible. I would really prefer that it be a coilover, tubular a-arm type of set up, but again, I am open to any ideas.

Please help. Thanks.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2011, 10:33 PM
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Body Off Finally

Physically seperated the body from the chassis today. My next door neighbor brought over his front end loader and while he lifted the front with the loader, his uncle and I lifter the rear and just scooted the chassis out from underneath it (more or less).

Also sold both fenders on eBay for $55. So in reality, I only paid $195 for the Beetle. Tomorrow I am going to the local VW shop to see if they want to buy the chassis off of me. If they don't, then it's going to the local scrap dealer for whatever he will give me for it. Here are a couple of pics from today.

Here is the chassis out from underneath the body.




A shot of the drivers side front up on jack stands.




Finally, a shot from the rear.

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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2011, 11:10 PM
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It's over...

Well guys, the Bug project has ended as soon as it started. I just found out that here in NM that we are "frame VIN" state and the only way to get a stronger frame under this thing is to use another chassis from something like a S-10 which I don't want to do.

Long story very short. I can not build a 2x3 frame for this Bug (which is what I wanted to do) and get it registered to drive on the street.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2011, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31fordcoupe
Well guys, the Bug project has ended as soon as it started. I just found out that here in NM that we are "frame VIN" state and the only way to get a stronger frame under this thing is to use another chassis from something like a S-10 which I don't want to do.

Long story very short. I can not build a 2x3 frame for this Bug (which is what I wanted to do) and get it registered to drive on the street.

THAT SUCKS!!!
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2011, 04:49 PM
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What? You mean NM doesn't have any hotrods that have scratch built frames? Why not just cut the VIN off the old frame and weld it to the newly built frame? Will they allow that?
I ran into similar issues with my old Austin street gasser, and I simply hauled it down to DMV on a trailer and asked what to do. The inspector came out, looked it over, and affixed a Oregon State tag and VIN to the car at a point that would not be damaged during construction. Then I took it home and completed the project.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2011, 05:42 PM
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Licensing

In NM, do cars over 25 years old need to be inspected? If not, license it now and then build your tube chassis. Missouri, from where I am at, does not inspect cars over 25 years old. In my case, my VW Squareback, originally had a vin on the chassis, upper left dash and one in the front spare tire well. My body is a '69 VW Squareback and that's what I will license it as. Even though it is a tube chassis with a sbc 350/330 horse.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2011, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
What? You mean NM doesn't have any hotrods that have scratch built frames? Why not just cut the VIN off the old frame and weld it to the newly built frame? Will they allow that?
I ran into similar issues with my old Austin street gasser, and I simply hauled it down to DMV on a trailer and asked what to do. The inspector came out, looked it over, and affixed a Oregon State tag and VIN to the car at a point that would not be damaged during construction. Then I took it home and completed the project.
I am checking on this very thing now. Basically NM is a "frame titled" State. So if I build something from scratch, it basically has to be a kit car or a vehicle that predates VIN's (like what I am doing with my 31 Ford that is in my avitar).

I work for the local Sheriff's Department and I am having one of our VIN inspectors do some research to determine if I can just cut out the VIN on the Bug chassis and basically weld it into my 2x3 frame. He's supposed to be getting back with me soon....

But, if that doesn't pan out, I am going to go ahead an use a S10 chassis I think. Been talking it over with my buddy and we will probably just back half the S10 frame and cut away and unneeded frame material (weight).

An added bonus of using the S10 frame is that I can get one for $350 or less (already have a line on a 1989, 1992 and a1997) and it obviously will already have the front disc brakes, steering, etc.. If I build the 2x3 frame, I will have to engineer all that and / or purchase it all and at a cost that will be MUCH higher than $350.

So I am going to keep this thing alive one way or another. Just bought a 400SBC for it for $50. Had a spun rod so the crank is trashed but the rest of the engine is good (not using the heads).

Any of you have some good suggestions on a decent factory head I can use for it that won't cost me a fortune? I was thinking a set of Vortec heads but I don't know crap about them.

Also, I will research the different S10 chassis tonight (frame width, etc.), but do any of you know off hand if those three years are all the same width? Pros and cons of using any of the three for this build?

I post up pics of my grimey 400 in a minute.

Brent
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2011, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Square
In NM, do cars over 25 years old need to be inspected? If not, license it now and then build your tube chassis. Missouri, from where I am at, does not inspect cars over 25 years old. In my case, my VW Squareback, originally had a vin on the chassis, upper left dash and one in the front spare tire well. My body is a '69 VW Squareback and that's what I will license it as. Even though it is a tube chassis with a sbc 350/330 horse.

Yes and no. When a VIN check is done here in NM, a VIN inspector has to match up the body VIN with the frame code (VIN). If they do not match up (as with a home built frame), it can't be registered for street use.

If it is a vehicle that predates VIN's, it's not an issue as they list them as kit cars basically.

I could register it now with the factory Bug chassis, but if I ever wanted to sell it with the 2x3 frame underneath it, it could become a problem for the buyer if he or she is in a State that is a "frame" VIN State like here in NM.
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