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Old 12-16-2004, 06:57 PM
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Another wiring question

Thanks for everyones help on my last post. I just got the meter box and service panel inspected and it passed!! They came out and hooked up the meter today!

My new question. I'm getting ready to do the interior wiring and really hate drilling holes in the posts (pole barn construction). My other 2 options would be to run it between the post and metal outside siding (about a 1 1/2'' gap) or to just do a separate drop down between each post from overhead... I really don't like the idea of running it through the gap, doesn't seem safe if you drill into it from the outside. Doing the separate drops would be ok, but will take quite a bit more wire... What have other people done on theirs??

Thanks

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Old 12-17-2004, 05:16 AM
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It all depends on your local code. I sugest that you consult your local inspector, but my experience is they are not too sharp on local requirements and don't even quote the NEC to them. I would not run the wire between the poles and the outer metal skin. I would run the wires along the side of the poles just like you would in a conventional frame house. Check the NEC, as it requires a staple spaced evenly at a set distance.

Vince
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Old 12-18-2004, 04:20 AM
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Run it in the plastic conduit. For a 10' piece it is only something like $1.29 a section. The connectors only amount to a few cents apiece and the boxes are relatively cheap. If you dont't want to run it all in the plastic, then run it above and put the drops in plastic. The only thing with doing it that way though is you have to have a junction box above instead of using your outlet to go from one to another. The reason being if you use 12-2 w/ground cable you can only get one wire to go thru each plastic pipe because of the size. If you use single wire then you can get it to fish thru them. I'm talking the 1/2" conduit. If you go larger it is a little more but you can fish the wires thru. (3/4") I ran all the electricity on our deck in plastic conduit and I have quite a bit run for less than $15.00 not counting wire. I would imagine for around $100 you can do almost all you need. With that I am talking running the conduit vertical on the walls. For the ease of it though, why not just drill the studs. You can have everything drilled in about a half an hour and you lose not structural integrity at all by doing so. Just remember to get a box of wire plates if you do. Nothing worse than running a nail or screw thru the wire and not knowing what happened.

Kevin
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Old 12-19-2004, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin45
Run it in the plastic conduit. For a 10' piece it is only something like $1.29 a section. The connectors only amount to a few cents apiece and the boxes are relatively cheap. If you dont't want to run it all in the plastic, then run it above and put the drops in plastic. The only thing with doing it that way though is you have to have a junction box above instead of using your outlet to go from one to another. The reason being if you use 12-2 w/ground cable you can only get one wire to go thru each plastic pipe because of the size. If you use single wire then you can get it to fish thru them. I'm talking the 1/2" conduit. If you go larger it is a little more but you can fish the wires thru. (3/4") I ran all the electricity on our deck in plastic conduit and I have quite a bit run for less than $15.00 not counting wire. I would imagine for around $100 you can do almost all you need. With that I am talking running the conduit vertical on the walls. For the ease of it though, why not just drill the studs. You can have everything drilled in about a half an hour and you lose not structural integrity at all by doing so. Just remember to get a box of wire plates if you do. Nothing worse than running a nail or screw thru the wire and not knowing what happened.

Kevin
Kevin has got the right ideas. I'd also run the wire through the posts though, much cleaner and less headaches. Get a good 1/2 in drill, a sharp bit, and go for it. Dan
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Old 12-19-2004, 10:52 AM
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Don't use a paddle bit for your drilling they make you work too hard. If you have to drill the post use the bit that looks like a screw or auger (can't think of the name). With a good drill these bits go through wood like butter. You might need an angle drill or you could use that cheesy 90 degree adapter that you can put on end of drill. I have used the adapter and it works but be sure you place the high speed end in the drill and the low speed end for the drill bit. If you go the other way around you will most likely destroy it like the first one I had.

If you are not going to cover the walls I would go through plastic pipe just to keep the wire protected. There might even be a code saying that you have to protect the wire in some fashion. Check with inspector as every state is different.
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin45
Run it in the plastic conduit. For a 10' piece it is only something like $1.29 a section. The connectors only amount to a few cents apiece and the boxes are relatively cheap. If you dont't want to run it all in the plastic, then run it above and put the drops in plastic. The only thing with doing it that way though is you have to have a junction box above instead of using your outlet to go from one to another. The reason being if you use 12-2 w/ground cable you can only get one wire to go thru each plastic pipe because of the size. If you use single wire then you can get it to fish thru them. I'm talking the 1/2" conduit. If you go larger it is a little more but you can fish the wires thru. (3/4") I ran all the electricity on our deck in plastic conduit and I have quite a bit run for less than $15.00 not counting wire. I would imagine for around $100 you can do almost all you need. With that I am talking running the conduit vertical on the walls. For the ease of it though, why not just drill the studs. You can have everything drilled in about a half an hour and you lose not structural integrity at all by doing so. Just remember to get a box of wire plates if you do. Nothing worse than running a nail or screw thru the wire and not knowing what happened.

Kevin

I wouldn't recomend this. 1st, PVC conduit looks like crap is a short period of time, it starts to sag. In addtion since it's not a conductor, you must run an addition wire for the ground and to be sure to ground the yoke on ALL switches and recepticles.

Running 12/2 MN (Romex) is violation due to fill of the conduit plus the plastic jacket on the Romex acts as insulation, keeping heat in. If nothing else, pulling solid wire through conduit is a *****.

EMT is dirt cheap. It's easily bent (up to 1 inch). Just reading the instructions on the bender and a little practice, will have you bending it like a pro. EMT can be used indoors or outdoors. It needs to be clamped no more the 3' from a box and every 10' after that. On verticle runs, you can clamp every 20'

EMT stands for Electric metalic tubing. It's thin wall conduit and costs less the $2 for a 10' length for 1/2. Just make sure to use compression fitting for outdoors and set screw connectors are for indoor only.

A little tip of info when bending, on 45* bends the hypotonues is 1.4 times as long as the base. Usually we round up to 1.5 times, work fine. Also 60* bends are easier when measuring offsets because the hypot is 2 times as long as the base, making quicker calculations.
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:44 AM
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All of my walls will be finished behind drywall. So conduit is not required correct?
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Old 12-20-2004, 01:21 PM
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Correct. No reason to use any pipe if the romex is going to be buried behind drywall.
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chopper64
Correct. No reason to use any pipe if the romex is going to be buried behind drywall.
Absolutely! In this case, I'd use PVC boxes. They're quicker to work with and generally have more capacity, especially with bulky GFCI outlets. Just one word of caution, be sure to use appropriate bushings for steel studs! you cannot pull Romex through a steel stud unless you use a approved bushing.
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Old 12-26-2004, 11:01 PM
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Well, over here in this neck of the woods, anybody I know would run #12 THHN in light steel conduit with metallic four square boxes. And since it's no longer code here to use metallic conduit and J-boxes as a solitary ground you'll still have to pull a green wire along with your current carrying conductors. I've seen a lot of exposed stapled Romex with steel boxes and entrance fitting used but frankly I wouldn't do it especially around any high traffic pinch point. Anything thats done in a commercial applications here, is either steel conduit or AC (Armor Clad) cable and I like the looks of it a lot better in hobby shops too. Some farm applications here wont let you run Romex even if it gets buried behind dry wall. I like to confine my plastic conduit to mainly below ground applications. I reckon whatever you do though, is ultimately up to the Authority Having Jurisdiction in your area. That would be your local inspector.
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