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Swaybars
I put 5 degree negative shims between the axle and springs. Then I adjusted the toe in to 1/8 degree negative. Then I went for a drive and it drove straight and fine on the same road that it had wandered on before. Now I have went ahead and installed a panhard bar just to be safe for future use. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
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No, No, No, not NEGATIVE caster, you want positive.
Where exactly are you putting the shims, thick part in the front or the rear and where is the axle above or below the springs? Brian |
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The springs are above the axle. The thick part of the shims are in the back which tilts the axle toward the rear.
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Grandpaw, Keep in mind that all of the alignment specs for these early cars are really more designed for narrow bias ply tires and manual steering. Also take int o cosideration that until the late 50's the front suspensions were engineered to run down dirt roads as much as pavement and definitley not at 70mph on the interstate. Castor was typically anywhere from 0 to 1 degree. With the addition of power steering, wider sticker radial tires and higher travel speeds more modern common castor angles are anywhere from 4-8 degrees out of the box. Good post~!
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Quote:
Brian |
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