[F&J]

Can you tell if this is a hyd or solid from the profile? I'd think (and hope) it is a hyd, and not too wild?



A friend says it is pointy like a solid cam, and he claims the lift is excessive. There is a few numbers with a H suffix stamped on it. I hope the H means hyd. it's from the 60s, maybe even early 60s. I have 1.8 ratio rockers and can get 1.5's no problem.

[Stroke]

Any other characters on the cam at all? List any and all. You could send it out for a Cam Dr. deal, or, by the time you send it twice plus pay for the service just buy what you need in a modern hydraulic for about the same or less money. Not knowing what your combo is, not knowing what cam you have and installing it hoping it 'works' is a shot in the dark. JMO

[Double_v23]

The only way to tell for sure is to measure the width and height of the lobe with a dial indicator. Your tape measure just isn't going to cut it. Once you get the width of the base of the lobe subtract it from the height of the lobe and you will get your cam lift.

so if the base is 1.2 and the height is 1.5 then you have .300 lift, then multiply this by the stock rocker arm ratio (1.5 for SBC, 1.7 for BBC) and you would get .450 lift (or .540 with 1.8's)

[F&J]

I forgot to say that there are NO cams available for this motor. So, it's either find a good core for regrind (if I could find a guy to do it) or find a NOS one. I don't have it here yet. Just wondering if one of you could shed light on what it 'Might" be as far as mild or hot, solid or hyd. Thanks

[Double_v23]

What motor is it going in? From the pics the lift doesn't look too excessive and the ramps aren't even that steep, and the lobes are fairly blunt so it may be a little higher in duration then some.

But if it is from the 60's then it is light years behind todays cams.

[F&J]

here is what the ad said:

"stamped "CROWER Cams" with #37H and A6236
I contacted Crower and they had no record of the numbers since they only keep records back 15 years. He thought it was probably a custom grind from the 60's. "


So, That's all I know so far. I did a google and found nothing on the numbers/ with that brand/etc


Hopefully going in a 55 324 olds...It was listed as a 49-56, but Hippy looked up the fit, and said it is either 49-55 OR 56-58? So, I took a chance. There have been NO cams listed in 6 months on ebay.

[k-star]

If you can't find a cam for your engine then a Cam doctor is a small price to pay to find out what it is..

If you are skilled with a degree wheel and a dial indicator you can find out exactly what cam it is.

You cannot tell just by looking at a lobe if it's a hyd or solid lobe. You can check the lifter rise with a dial indicator. Solid cams have a lash ramp built into the lobe, hyd cams don't.

If you want to know how to check this PM me.

Keith

[powerrodsmike]

Originally Posted by Double_v23

The only way to tell for sure is to measure the width and height of the lobe with a dial indicator. Your tape measure just isn't going to cut it. Once you get the width of the base of the lobe subtract it from the height of the lobe and you will get your cam lift.

so if the base is 1.2 and the height is 1.5 then you have .300 lift, then multiply this by the stock rocker arm ratio (1.5 for SBC, 1.7 for BBC) and you would get .450 lift (or .540 with 1.8's)

Did you mean dial calipers?

If you measure with a dial indicator you use V blocks and spin the cam with the point of the indicator riding on the lobe. Set the indicator on 0.0" and as you rotate the cam you can observe the amount of lobe lift directly on the indicator.

Multiply this by your rocker arm ratio as stated above and you get theoretical lift at the valve.


You can also check the duration by using the dial indicator and a degree wheel. The cam spins 1/2 the speed of the crank, so put a degree wheel on the cam snout, then record the amount of degrees of rotation that move the dial indicator .004" up and record where the indicator is .004" from base circle diameter...multiply this number by 2 will give an approximate advertised duration.


You can also install the cam in a block with a crank, timing chain and lifter, then reverse engineer degree it to get your cam timing specs and lobe centerlines and all that.

It's relatively easy to do, there are several threads about it here. I did it on a few different unknown cams after reading the instructions on how to degree a new cam installation, and it actually worked out that I found the correct specs....


It looks like a fairly mild cam to me from the pics, but I could be wrong. H usually does mean hydraulic.

Later, mikey

[F&J]

Thanks for the offer. i'll likely get this delivered by monday or so and I'll try to PM you then. I've got indicators etc, and can borrow a wheel. Thanks

[F&J]

It looks like a fairly mild cam to me from the pics, but I could be wrong. H usually does mean hydraulic

That's what I hoped for

[F&J]

Ok, I'll have to borrow a dial indicator that has more capacity. my bud works for Pratt & Whitney .

Then I will see if I can get the cam in the lathe centers and have room for the wheel...then I'll get back with some findings.
Thanks!

[Double_v23]

Originally Posted by powerrodsmike

Did you mean dial calipers?

Yeah that is what I meant

[Stroke]

I forgot to say that there are NO cams available for this motor

Dude, you can get a cam for ANYTHING.

[ap72]

I made a degree wheel out of some super dense paper board and a compass. The thing's like 2 feet in diameter which sure beats the hell out of trying to use one of those 8" deals. Plus it only set me back a few bucks.

It did take almost two hours to set every tick mark on it though...

[T-bucket23]

Have you tried isky, they did grind cams for that engine.