As a matter of practice, we wait until all cylinders are installed to "torque". Bringing each pair "up" for clear access, "whack" the pair back and forth a couple times with a "soft" hammer (tap the caps). We use a plastic one so no debris comes from the hammer itself. DO NOT use a brass hammer here. A rawhide hammer is okay. Insert that feeler blade (minimum .010", must be "hardened") on the side (between the rod and the crank, not between the two rods) that will get the pressure applied from the twisting of the wrench. This "centers up" the rods to each other, a critical point for bleeding oil and maintaining "straight".