Any suggestions on maintaining a rebuilt, early hemi after long storage? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2010, 09:29 PM
31chevymike's Avatar
NOSTALGIA HOT RODS WILL RULE!
 

Last journal entry: Second Resto finished and looking cool!
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Boynton Beach, Florida
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Any suggestions on maintaining a rebuilt, early hemi after long storage?

This is my very first post on this site... I need some serious advice after a very disappointing closure with my hemi engine builder... I had a Blown '58 Chrysler 392 hemi built and finished over a year ago and I'm worried about the condition of the cylinder walls from possibly rusting from a long delay of firing the engine. From the way it looks, it could even be much longer before I get to fire up this beast - my financial situation hasn't been much good at all from this economy to keep this subject short and sweet...

A local hot rodder suggested that I fill the cylinder walls with thick 90 weight gear oil through the spark plug tubes, spinning my balancer slowly to lubricate them completely. This sounds like a great idea, knowing that the tubes are of coarse, at the top of the valve covers for direct contact with the cylinder walls/pistons. My hemi is completely sealed up with the exception of the tube seals filled with foam. All exhaust/intake ports (minus the blower), water pump outlet, etc. are taped up with masking tape.

I would appreciate any pertinent advice from novice to professional engine builders alike!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Hemi with Blower 1.JPG
Views:	60
Size:	58.6 KB
ID:	49014   Click image for larger version

Name:	Check out this special Vintage Drag Oil Pan!.JPG
Views:	53
Size:	264.4 KB
ID:	49015   Click image for larger version

Name:	'58 Blown 392 Almost Complete!.JPG
Views:	77
Size:	57.7 KB
ID:	49016  

    Advertisement

Last edited by 31chevymike; 10-17-2010 at 09:42 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2010, 09:56 PM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 351W rebuild
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: tremont, pa.
Age: 70
Posts: 2,218
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Hi
Welcome to Hotrodders.com Glad to have you with us.

If I were to put anything in the cylinders.
I would get a can of fogging oil & spray that into the cylinders.
I don't think I would put 90W in there.
Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2010, 10:30 PM
Onefunponcho's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 204
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not sure about 90w

I would use a light spray oil such as wd-40 in the cylinders and hand turn the engine a few times.

I dont know if this is the best method but it has worked for me in the past.

sounds like you have safe guarded the engine quite well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2010, 11:05 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mount your engine on an engine stand and rotate it so that one cylinder bank is straight up and down. Pour in a little Marvel Mystery Oil (just a shot glass or so... a little goes a long way) and rotate the crank a couple times. Do the same with the other cylinder bank and button it up. Just rotate the crank a couple times every week or so and you should be good to go when the time finally comes to fire it up.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 12:46 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 380 Times in 374 Posts
Do not use WD-40 for any long term rust prevention. Bare metal treated with wd40 will rust sooner than you want.. Use a engine combustion chamber fogging spray designed for engine storage corrosion protection.
If in doubt reapply the fogging spray periodicly and rotate the crankshaft by hand once in a while.

Change the oil in the pan.

Then before you fire it up after storage, change the motor oil again.
Remove all the spark plugs and spin the motor over with the starter to purge out any storage spray WITH ALL THE SPARK PLUGS REMOVED. Install new clean spark plugs.

Keep your head back out of the way cause its going to come out the spark plug holes.
This avoids hydraulicking the motor and or oil fouling the plugs on start up.

Use fresh gasoline and fire it up.

If you want you can remove the valve covers and hand oil the rockers and shafts and a shot between the valve spring coils to prelube the valve train.
A dry valve train start up is not good.

Sometimes valve seals get hard and need to be replaced after long term storage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 03:22 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: A few ongoing projects
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 258
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Nice looking engine. It looks pretty close to firing. Here's my suggestion for what it's worth. Build or buy an engine run stand.

You solve a few problems this way. You can get the cam broken in and actually get the engine sorted out before it goes in the car. Things like oil, water pump seals and carburator gaskets will remain good as long as the engine is occasionally run. Make sure it has big heavy duty castors and it will make it easy to move around out of the way. A big benifit is that just hearing the engine occasionally run is a big motivator to keeping the project going.

For the initial startup, at a minimum I would prelube the engine with a drill and priming shaft. My personal preference on the early Hemis is to do it with the valve covers off. Spin the oil pump while slowly turning the engine over by hand until you have oil coming out of EVERY rocker.

I built the Hemi for my 37 Dodge project 4 years ago and run it at least every 6 months. When I fire it I always run it for at least 20 minuets or so (long enough to bring it to full operating temperature.

I don't have a good picture of the engine running, but here is a short video of the engine running on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5VEbByTEUc
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 05:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Urbana
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What 57plymouth said is the best choice.
Second choice: Marvel for storage, prime the engine before fire up.
No WD40, bad juju.
FWIW the only oil I found as good or perhaps better for storage than Marvel is Gibbs Brand. http://getgibbs.com/

Dave Koehler
http://www.koehlerinjection.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 05:35 AM
345 desoto's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Skaneateles, NY Summer/Port St.Lucie, FL Winter
Age: 71
Posts: 416
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Fogging oil...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 05:38 AM
Onefunponcho's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 204
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I had no idea

Sorry for the bad advice!

I have been using light penetratjng oil such as wd-40 for protecting hard parts for a long time and Had no idea it was rubbish. What is in it that makes it a bad idea. Im not calling anyone out Just want to cure my ignorance.

Thanks for any info.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 08:06 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Urbana
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Poncho,
Been at this a while and have yet to see WD40 do what we want it to do as far as bare metal protection. Come back a year later and the metal is tarnished or worse. What's even worse is the darn stuff gets gummy. This can be a problem with close tolerance parts. Marvel was the defacto for years since it is engine friendly. It will not get gummy and will burn off.

As I noted earlier that Gibbs stuff does great for bare metal protection. I started using it on my bare digger chassis. Once convinced I started using it on machined surfaces...and all other kinds of surfaces. The machines in my shop have never stayed so clean, yada yada.

Conklin co used to make a spray on that was kind of like cosmoline but cleaned off easier. This was great for unassembled parts that sat a long time. Haven't been able to find it lately.

Dave Koehler
http://www.koehlerinjection.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 08:39 AM
31chevymike's Avatar
NOSTALGIA HOT RODS WILL RULE!
 

Last journal entry: Second Resto finished and looking cool!
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Boynton Beach, Florida
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
All of the above advice I got is GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Thanks so much Guys! I checked out the GIBBS website from the enclosed link and wrote a note to Jerry with some more questions and advice with this marvel product - GIBBS! I'll be ordering this product very shortly after confirming his response!

A few years ago, I was in a terrible car accident with my '95 Toyota, cruising to a local car cruise night about an hour and a half away. I wanted to check this place out before I bring my '31 Chevy coupe with 4:11 gears. Just minutes before I got there, a driver passed out going southbound from an apparant heart attack, crossed over in my oncoming northbound lane and hit me head on at almost 45 mph! I didn't see it coming, waking up after realizing that I was being freed from my mangled car after the entire top was cut off from the rescue of Firemen! The scary part was, I would have been in my '31 had I decided not to take my Toyota! No seat belts, air bags of coarse, you get the picture! After 8 months of learning how to walk again while being out of work, I won a reasonable lawsuit which eventually I dropped almost 23K in my hot rod, 17K in the hemi alone! Wouldn't you! Needless to say that I don't want you guys to think I have money to burn effortlessly, running out a while ago and cannot continue my restoration of my coupe at the moment...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 05:33 PM
31chevymike's Avatar
NOSTALGIA HOT RODS WILL RULE!
 

Last journal entry: Second Resto finished and looking cool!
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Boynton Beach, Florida
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Dave, I just ordered two cans of Gibbs from a supplier from Ebay, so I appreciate this info greatly on this stuff! Jerry (the supplier of GIBBS on his site from the link you listed) said I can spray this stuff on my valvetrain too. There's no oil registering on my dipstick, do you recommend spraying this stuff on my crank assembly as well? Thanks! Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Koehler
Poncho,
Been at this a while and have yet to see WD40 do what we want it to do as far as bare metal protection. Come back a year later and the metal is tarnished or worse. What's even worse is the darn stuff gets gummy. This can be a problem with close tolerance parts. Marvel was the defacto for years since it is engine friendly. It will not get gummy and will burn off.

As I noted earlier that Gibbs stuff does great for bare metal protection. I started using it on my bare digger chassis. Once convinced I started using it on machined surfaces...and all other kinds of surfaces. The machines in my shop have never stayed so clean, yada yada.

Conklin co used to make a spray on that was kind of like cosmoline but cleaned off easier. This was great for unassembled parts that sat a long time. Haven't been able to find it lately.

Dave Koehler
http://www.koehlerinjection.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Long Term Storage Mike1971pu General Rodding Tech 14 04-06-2009 07:30 PM
Short to long water pump for early sbc etaylo17 General Rodding Tech 4 07-19-2008 06:28 AM
early hemi blower intake hotroddenjosh Engine 7 12-25-2005 11:47 AM
Long Term Engine Storage 6T5FIVESPD Engine 10 01-12-2004 04:51 PM
early chry long ram manifolds crossram Engine 2 10-09-2002 03:21 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.