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Old 07-18-2008, 06:30 PM
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any tips for spraying my first candy job? doing it in the morning

Hey guys... so I'm going to spray my first candy paint job in the morning... I know, I may screw it up, but there is only one way to find out...

I'm using blood red candy concentrate in the clear, sprayed on a HOK goldmine pearl base, which is over a white HOK sealer.

I've sprayed a few junk fenders to get used to the process... it turned out not bad... a little blotchy where i put it on too thick without waiting for the previous coat to dry a bit... but I did that intentionally... just trying to see how many coats it took to get darker... where I was actually trying to be even... it looks good.

I know to walk the vehicle... but does anyone have other tips?

I've heard to use alternating patterns... lengthwise one coat, and widthwise the next, etc. Is that something I should consider?

What's the best way to mix the concentrate to ensure it's evenly mixed? I was thinking just add it to the clear base before I get to the booth... so every time I mix it up with reducer, it will have the same amount in it.


Also, is there any harm in mixing up a large container of the stuff when i do my first coat, and just keep pouring from that for all six or so coats, or should I do it in batches only large enough for one coat at a time fresh?

I know... I'm pretty green... but trying to learn.

Thanks for the help.

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Old 07-18-2008, 08:16 PM
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Sorry,But this is TOTALLY wrong.
You NEVER add the concentrait TO clear coat.
Thats called Gheto Kandy and is a FAILURE waiting to happen.
You go stacking the required number of coats of clear for a "real" kandy job,and it's gonna pop,die back,and worst of all,FADE shortly.
Kandy for a complete vehicle is ONLY done with HOK UK base coat which is a catalyzed product and THEN clear coated.
Koncentrait or KK's are often done in custom work by mixing with an inter coat clear or a simple binder to a max ratio of 20% by volume,reduced to as much as 1:2. Applied with as many as 10 coats allowing proper flash time between and even then,this is for small stuff or projects which don't see much daylight.Koncentrait's regardless if their HOK,SEM,whoever, are just toners and thats it.They will fade over time when in direct sun regardless of how many coats of clear over them.
MAIN issue will be trash. ANYTHING gets on the surface and the kandy will build around it causing an instant dark spot. You can try and nib it out stopping on the coat it occurs in but if you miss it and continue on,your screwed.You go trying to sand out the nibs and you create light spots in the color which can't be "spotted in" like regular base paints.
Lastly will be spraying like a machine as consistency of coverage and pattern is CRITICAL.
You need to REALLY rethink this and do some SERIOUS homework on kandy jobs cause your definitely on the WRONG road.
Sorry to be SO critical,but man,this is WAY off.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:48 PM
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Good luck on the project. Like Mike said, you'll need to be almost robotic to get good even coverage walking the complete side of the car and watching the edges and lower areas (most first timers don't get enough coverage on the rockers and lower areas). Candy's suck for repairability so I hope things go well for you. I won't do any more complete candy jobs just because of the repairability hassle but they are nice for smaller jobs and graphics. Using the KK in an intercoat clear makes for easier sprayability but you can use it in a urethane clear as well then shoot straight clear over it. You don't want any runs or any dirt.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
Good luck on the project. Like Mike said, you'll need to be almost robotic to get good even coverage walking the complete side of the car and watching the edges and lower areas (most first timers don't get enough coverage on the rockers and lower areas). Candy's suck for repairability so I hope things go well for you. I won't do any more complete candy jobs just because of the repairability hassle but they are nice for smaller jobs and graphics. Using the KK in an intercoat clear makes for easier sprayability but you can use it in a urethane clear as well then shoot straight clear over it. You don't want any runs or any dirt.
Thanks for the help.


Well... regardless of the warnings... it turned out very very good. I only ended up needing 3 coats of clear with the KK additive to get an extreemly deep blood red color over the gold. The only issue that I had was that I needed more base. Another pint of base to cover this big truck would have helped get it more even. I ended up with a little blotchyness in the base, which you can see slightly in the sun, but overall I'm very happy. You probably wouldn't notice unless you were looking for it... but the clear turned out pretty even.

Sorry, no pictures yet, but I'll post some.

I didn't put any clear, clear overtop because there is one spot I want to try to sand down a bit where I got a small run.

I still can't believe how good it looks. In the sun it's absolute amazing... that perl really glows.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:47 PM
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Congrats, glad to hear it turned out good! You'll need to scuff it up before your clear. A grey scotchbrite should do the trick.
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