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rusthater89 06-25-2012 12:52 PM

Anybody good with fiberglass
 
4 Attachment(s)
I have been trying to repair this shaker scoop on my 1978 fire bird.

If you look closely at the first two pics you will see where I sanded some filler out and where I tried to blend it, it also took down some of the fiberglass ruining the lines. Any advice on fixing it?

OneMoreTime 06-25-2012 01:04 PM

These guys are... http://www.fiberglassforums.com/ You will need to build up the areas and then grind back to where you need to be..

Sam

1971BB427 06-25-2012 05:09 PM

If you broke through the glaze you need to restore it. get some glass resin and seal the areas you broke through, then you can fill with a filler designed speciically for glass if the resin doesn't fill enough. After that epoxy sealer and it is ready for prime and paint.

rusthater89 06-25-2012 05:27 PM

Also in the last two pics I have areas of fiberglass resin that won't blend well. I am pretty new to this fiberglass stuff, Am I supposed to rely on the filler to blend the repair?

rusthater89 06-25-2012 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1971BB427
If you broke through the glaze you need to restore it. get some glass resin and seal the areas you broke through, then you can fill with a filler designed speciically for glass if the resin doesn't fill enough. After that epoxy sealer and it is ready for prime and paint.

I did do that. It's not the greatest but the filler seemed to cover up the roughness.

tech69 06-25-2012 10:44 PM

It's probably not blending well cause you have to use your brush to blot down the edges of your matting and extend the resin beyond the edges of the matting as well. If you do that and use a roller/ brush it should be ok. As far as thinning the lines, it's hard to tell how much is glass and how much is filler. If you think it's too thin you can always take the filler off and add some strips of differing lengths to feather it out nice. You can shape it with an aggressive da with 40 grit, a die grinder carefully, and or mud hog with 40. I should be putting up a video of my coworker spanking out a Vette pretty soon on some fiberglass repairs.

milo 06-25-2012 11:40 PM

OnetoOne epoxy resin is important when repairing fiberglass .
It is different then the regular resin used to make parts and will actually adhere for long periods of time :thumbup:
google one to one epoxy fiberglass resin :cool:

rusthater89 06-26-2012 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milo
OnetoOne epoxy resin is important when repairing fiberglass .
It is different then the regular resin used to make parts and will actually adhere for long periods of time :thumbup:
google one to one epoxy fiberglass resin :cool:

Wait, then what is the epoxy resin that comes with the tube of hardener?

rusthater89 06-26-2012 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech69
It's probably not blending well cause you have to use your brush to blot down the edges of your matting and extend the resin beyond the edges of the matting as well. If you do that and use a roller/ brush it should be ok. As far as thinning the lines, it's hard to tell how much is glass and how much is filler. If you think it's too thin you can always take the filler off and add some strips of differing lengths to feather it out nice. You can shape it with an aggressive da with 40 grit, a die grinder carefully, and or mud hog with 40. I should be putting up a video of my coworker spanking out a Vette pretty soon on some fiberglass repairs.

I was thinking of using my air grinder to shape it. Oh well, I spent 3 hours trying to aggressively hand sand the fiberglass with 50 grit paper.

On my last pic you can see where the body filler ends. Then you can see where the kinda clearish resin ends right by where the epoxy primer has been sanded off in my attempts to feather it. That is my issue. When I run my hand over it I can certainly feel the edge. I tried to upload a pic of the areas circled but the forum won't let me cause the files to large.

First timer mistake, I didn't realize that I should've used a roller. As you can also see the air holes that I used body filler to fill.

wwilliams181 06-26-2012 09:18 AM

The epoxy resin as stated above is the trick.. don't think gm used Polyester based resins since 1970. The normal polyester you get from the local parts house will not adhere to the part.

rusthater89 06-26-2012 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwilliams181
The epoxy resin as stated above is the trick.. don't think gm used Polyester based resins since 1970. The normal polyester you get from the local parts house will not adhere to the part.

I'll have to research that later. I put the fiber-glassing I did over the epoxy primer. Hopefully that is better.

rusthater89 06-26-2012 12:48 PM

5 Attachment(s)
This is an update, what do you guys think?

The hardest part was trying to get that line straight on the back of the scoop. It certainly isn't perfect. Do you guys think a High build primer would smooth it better?

tech69 06-26-2012 07:57 PM

High build is generally for waves you can't see or feel. If you ask it to hide something you can see in a pic it's asking far too much of it. You can always make a dam with some mat and 2" tape to extend that edge out and grind/sand it to where you want it then do the finesse work in filler.

rusthater89 06-26-2012 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech69
High build is generally for waves you can't see or feel. If you ask it to hide something you can see in a pic it's asking far too much of it. You can always make a dam with some mat and 2" tape to extend that edge out and grind/sand it to where you want it then do the finesse work in filler.

I don't think it is serious enough to require hard to sand and smooth out fiberglass. The problem with trying to feather it is that it ruins the lines on the edges as you can see carefully in the pic that the edges though relatively good are not perfect (at least not in my eyes) Basically whenever I sand the filler it takes down some fiberglass as well. You can see in the pic that I have several lines and edges to deal with.

I need to find an object similar to the shape somehow, it'll smooth it better than the flat sanding block.


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