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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 06:53 AM
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Another nice kit

I see you are looking at the Speedway kit. I have been batting that one around too till I found this one.. You might want to check this out
http://www.nehrspeedcraft.com/index.html
These guys are retired Aout engineers and have reengineered the kits to be perfect..
I love old hemis and would love to see one in a T-Bucket

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 07:05 AM
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Oooooooo. Thanks

It looks like most of the speedway kits require an auto trans due to the interior size. I need to find a kit that allows a manual trans. They don't make an automatic trans adapter for the extended bellhousing hemi, only manual. I like to shift gears too
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:12 AM
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Im not sure if youre aware of it or not, but something you might want to look at on you crankshaft when you have your Hemi apart. Unless you have a crank from a car/truck that had a manual transmission chances are its not drilled for a pilot bearing.

Manual Trans Crank



Automatic Crank




Any machine shop can drill the pilot hole but the the crank needs to be out to do it.

Although its not optimum, one thing some people have done in the past especially if running the Chrysler transmissions which have a very long pilot bearing snout is to run a bearing in the convertor hub index and then cut down the end of the transmission. Just something you might want to mock up before you take the engine apart too make sure you wont run into problems with down the road.





Putting a bypass hose on when using the Chevy water pump conversion with the crossover between the heads can be a PIA. The factory crossovers do have a nipple cast into them for the bypass hose.



Unfortunately, the nipple is rather long and really too close to where the nipple for the bypass hose goes on the water pump. What I have done in the past is cut the nipple off flush, then drill and tap for the shortest 1/2" water nipple I could find. Then found a pre-formed bypass hose with the right bends in it to use.

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Old 12-28-2011, 07:15 AM
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The car below is my inspiration. I will be happy if I can pull off something half as nice. It's not a kit car, but it has the "look" I'm after.

The guy who built it is pretty cool too
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:27 AM
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I'm wondering if I actually need to install the bypass. My SBC in my other car has a plug in the WP. My 331 does not use the head water pipe like the later hemis

Thanks for the pilot bearing hole info. My Olds 455 was the same deal - no place for a bearing. I was going to get it drilled, but then I found a real M/T crank out of a W-30 car.

I do have a question: My hemi still has the original fluid auto trans bolted up to it. Does it have a standard flywheel inside of it? I don't know how these old Mopar autos work

Per Hotheads, I need to use a 146 tooth flywheel with their manual trans adapter kit
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:37 AM
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Subscribing.
I love T Buckets and Hemis. Good luck with your build. And remember, lots of picks, thats how we get our fix and will live vicariously through your project.
BTW, the Tribute T is way cool looking, the frame holes look neat but be careful with that especially with thinner tubing.
SS
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:48 AM
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"....I'm wondering if I actually need to install the bypass....."

If at all possible I would. The bypass allows the water to circulate in the block until the thermostat opens and prevents localized hot spots from forming. If you elect not to at a minimum I would drill a couple of 1/8 holes in the thermostat.

".... My hemi still has the original fluid auto trans bolted up to it. Does it have a standard flywheel inside of it?...."

If it has a throwout arm on the bellhousing then it is a "fluid drive" (basically a standard clutch connected to a torque convertor) and should have a standard flywheel.

Last edited by 1957plymouthhemi; 12-28-2011 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1957plymouthhemi
.....If at all possible I would. The bypass allows the water to circulate in the block until the thermostat opens and prevents localized hot spots from forming. If you elect not to at a minimum I would drill a couple of 1/8 holes in the thermostat.
That's exactly what I did with the '54 331 I put in my pickup. No bypass but drilled about 8 1/8" holes in the thermostat to allow water to circulate while the engine warms up.

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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 04:42 PM
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Here's a nice one (not mine - don't know the owner)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1923-...ht_1133wt_1167

Russ
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjet
I'm gonna have the manifold opened up to match the AFB/WCFB adapter & got. I have a few carbs to use, but I'd really like to get that Ez-EFI fuel injection kit from F.A.S.T. How cool would that be? I already bought the EFI coolant temp sensor & 02 sensor bung from FAST so they will be installed when I'm ready to convert it to EFI
You'll have to contend with cutting into the exhaust crossover passage if you open up a '54 intake to fit a Holley, AFB or Edlebrock and once you open it up, make sure you radius the base of your cut bores.

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSoto
You'll have to contend with cutting into the exhaust crossover passage if you open up a '54 intake to fit a Holley, AFB or Edlebrock and once you open it up, make sure you radius the base of your cut bores.

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
Hi Skip, glad to see you posting again.

I had my machine shop do that very same thing and we didn't hit the exhaust crossover. Don't know if it was luck, an unusually thick casting or what but it worked.

Before...



After....



AFB adapter and with riser installed....




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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 07:16 PM
Hot Rod Wiring, Early Hemi SME
 
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I wound up having to tap the carb base heater chamber outlets and crank in a pair of 3/8"-16 bolts into the holes and re-bore the throttle ports. I bottomed the bolts and torgued them into the base of the threads before re-boring the ports.

At least 1/3 of the bolt was protruding (at an angle) into the throttle bore at the carb surface.

BTW, the "new" engine's balanced and ready to go together but we're just waiting on some camshaft issues that weren't adequately addressed by the folks at Crower on the last go-around. Miscommunication between management and the shop floor, I guess.

Last edited by DeSoto; 12-28-2011 at 07:28 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 07:22 PM
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I just noticed. Your manifold doesn't have the two holes for the carburetor heater chamber. Mine (off a '54 New Yorker) had a pair of holes that lead to a chamber under the carburetor. The base gasket had a chaber in it to route the exhaust gasses under the Stromberg 4bbl carb to heat the base plate. These holes were so close to the bores that opening them up to accept an R-3310 Holley cut into those two exhaust crossover bores.
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjet
I do have a question: My hemi still has the original fluid auto trans bolted up to it. Does it have a standard flywheel inside of it? I don't know how these old Mopar autos work

Per Hotheads, I need to use a 146 tooth flywheel with their manual trans adapter kit
You need an eight bolt flywheel. Use a Chrysler/Dodge/DeSoto/Plymouth (flat, not dished) 146 tooth flywheel 1939-1956

If you had a '54-'56 block and you wanted to use an adapter with a later model trans, you'd need the 130 tooth flywheel from a 426. It's an eight bolt flywheel (with the asymmetrical bolt pattern) that'll bolt right up and work with the later model gear reduction starter used throughout the sixties and for the next 30+ years, HOWEVER, with your extended bellhousing you're pretty much limited to the 146 tooth flywheel as the ONLY option and the only starters that'll work are the stock 6 volt starters up to '55, the '56 12 volt starter or a PowerMaster starter.

If you find a 172 tooth flywheel, sell it to someone with a 392 because it won't work with any starter you can find on that block.

McBar Machine made an adapter to install a FoMoCo trans on a '51-'53 hemi and Wilcap and Offenhauser made them to install a Chevy trans on the same year hemi. I run an Offy behind my '53 hemi.

Wilcap copied my Mcbar Machine adapter (I loaned it to them so that they could copy it) but I don't know if it ever hit the streets before Tony died and the business got sold.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSoto
I wound up having to tap the carb base heater chamber outlets and crank in a pair of 3/8"-16 bolts into the holes and re-bore the throttle ports. I bottomed the bolts and torgued them into the base of the threads before re-boring the ports.

At least 1/3 of the bolt was protruding (at an angle) into the throttle bore at the carb surface.

BTW, the "new" engine's balanced and ready to go together but we're just waiting on some camshaft issues that weren't adequately addressed by the folks at Crower on the last go-around. Miscommunication between management and the shop floor, I guess.
Glad to here you're almost up and running again. Nothing sucks more than an oil pump failure 1000 miles from home.

I finally finished the deuce ... check my site to see the pics.

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