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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 06:23 AM
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"....If you had a '54-'56 block and you wanted to use an adapter with a later model trans, you'd need the 130 tooth flywheel from a 426. It's an eight bolt flywheel (with the asymmetrical bolt pattern) that'll bolt right up and work with the later model gear reduction starter used throughout the sixties and for the next 30+ years, HOWEVER, with your extended bellhousing you're pretty much limited to the 146 tooth flywheel as the ONLY option and the only starters that'll work are the stock 6 volt starters up to '55, the '56 12 volt starter or a PowerMaster starter.

If you find a 172 tooth flywheel, sell it to someone with a 392 because it won't work with any starter you can find on that block......"

__________________________________________________ _______________

I thought I'd throw this out as a for what it's worth thing (although it doesn't really pertain to the extended bellhousing as mentioned because of the starter issue).

According to the Wildcap site

".....Also the 426 Hemi flywheel has the correct bolt pattern but does not register on the flywheel correctly and can't be used....."



From my own experience, don't overlook or throw away the Poly flywheels (1957-1961) if you happen to come across one. Yes they are six bolts not eight like the HEMIs but they do bolt up to the Hemi Crank and register correctly. It is possible to drill and add the additional 2 studs if desired or run as is with only 6 bolts. Keep in mind that Chrysler only used the 8 bolt crank on the HEMIs and 6 bolts on everything else to include the 440s. Personally Im not bothered running with only 6 studs in a mild street application.

The flywheel is too large (diameter) to use with the late model bellhousing/adaptor, but any machine shop can turn them down for the 130 tooth ring gear. The last one I had done cost $30 to turn down and have the ring gear installed.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 08:27 AM
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"....."When buying a used car, punch the buttons on the radio. If all the stations are rock and roll, there's a good chance the transmission is shot." - Larry Lujack......"


By the way Centerline, I like the quote. Brings back memories of WLS and US 30, Nickey Chevrolet and Mr Norms commercials. Yeah, I'm that old.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1957plymouthhemi
"....."When buying a used car, punch the buttons on the radio. If all the stations are rock and roll, there's a good chance the transmission is shot." - Larry Lujack......"


By the way Centerline, I like the quote. Brings back memories of WLS and US 30, Nickey Chevrolet and Mr Norms commercials. Yeah, I'm that old.
I remember Nickey Chevrolet. I bought a 66 Vette fastback from a "pre-owned" Caddy dealer in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl in '71. They said it was a 396 and it ran like crap. Cost me $1800. Took it home, switched two plug wires and it purred like a kitten. Took the numbers off the block and couldn't find any matches so called Nickey and had them look it up. Turned out to be one of the first '66 Vettes with the 425 hp. 427 produced. God, I wish I still had that car...



Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

Top ten reasons racing is better then sex:

1)You're expected to burn rubber, 2) It's OK to be a spectator, 3) There is a pit crew to help you out, 4) The faster you are the better you are, 5) It can last for several hours, 6) It's acceptable to tailgate, 7) You're supposed to finish first, 8) Earplugs are OK to drown out noise, 9) You don't have to kiss the race car, and 10) You get a trophy when your done.

Last edited by Centerline; 12-29-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1957plymouthhemi
"....I'm wondering if I actually need to install the bypass....."

If at all possible I would. The bypass allows the water to circulate in the block until the thermostat opens and prevents localized hot spots from forming. If you elect not to at a minimum I would drill a couple of 1/8 holes in the thermostat.

".... My hemi still has the original fluid auto trans bolted up to it. Does it have a standard flywheel inside of it?...."

If it has a throwout arm on the bellhousing then it is a "fluid drive" (basically a standard clutch connected to a torque convertor) and should have a standard flywheel.
Good info about the hole in the thermostat. I will check on the throwout arm. I have the motor assy stashed away at my dad's house in CA. I filled it with Marvel Mystery Oil last year - 2 gallons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSoto
You'll have to contend with cutting into the exhaust crossover passage if you open up a '54 intake to fit a Holley, AFB or Edlebrock and once you open it up, make sure you radius the base of your cut bores.

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
Will do. I'm going to install cast iron plugs in the heads too. I wont need any carb heat if I go with EFI

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSoto
I just noticed. Your manifold doesn't have the two holes for the carburetor heater chamber. Mine (off a '54 New Yorker) had a pair of holes that lead to a chamber under the carburetor. The base gasket had a chaber in it to route the exhaust gasses under the Stromberg 4bbl carb to heat the base plate. These holes were so close to the bores that opening them up to accept an R-3310 Holley cut into those two exhaust crossover bores.
My intake has the small holes like your's did

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSoto
You need an eight bolt flywheel. Use a Chrysler/Dodge/DeSoto/Plymouth (flat, not dished) 146 tooth flywheel 1939-1956
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSoto
Wilcap copied my Mcbar Machine adapter (I loaned it to them so that they could copy it) but I don't know if it ever hit the streets before Tony died and the business got sold.
My HH adapter is an exact dup of the original Offy adapter from the 60's
See page 42 on the PDF link below

Old Offy Catalog

Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
I remember Nickey Chevrolet. I bought a 66 Vette fastback from a "pre-owned" Caddy dealer in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl in '71. They said it was a 396 and it ran like crap. Cost me $1800. Took it home, switched two plug wires and it purred like a kitten. Took the numbers off the block and couldn't find any matches so called Nickey and had them look it up. Turned out to be one of the first '66 Vettes with the 425 hp. 427 produced. God, I wish I still had that car...


Nice Midyear BB, but Vette's are sooo boring....Here's my silver '70
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Last edited by tjet; 12-29-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 09:11 AM
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i love the look of hemi heads, gives me shivers seeing those biggens on there.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 09:16 AM
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I belong to a T Bucket club in North Texas and I am a member of the National T Bucket group and there are several T Buckets with the older hemi engine in them. Weigh a "bunch", but they are cool.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 02:19 PM
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A friend of mine is building a Tall T with an early hemi.......the pic below is mine, it's got a Chrysler 383 with an old 6-pack setup/A-833/9.75....they're a blast!

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt23T
I belong to a T Bucket club in North Texas and I am a member of the National T Bucket group and there are several T Buckets with the older hemi engine in them. Weigh a "bunch", but they are cool.
Ya, they're heavy, but I'm mostly concerned about bellhousing & clutch pedal clearance. I'm planning on using a hyd clutch pedal setup. The early blocks (like mine) have a long straight bellhousing

I'm really digging the exposed transmission on the cars below. I think that's how I want to do it.


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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjet





My HH adapter is an exact dup of the original Offy adapter from the 60's
See page 42 on the PDF link below
Yea, it's a copy of the spare Offy adapter I loaned to the Capanas (Wilcap) to make duplicates.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 07:58 PM
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Perhaps I should change my "last picture"

Perhaps I should change my "last picture" to something more appropriate.

This is a Hot Heads oil pump shaft with only 37,000 miles on it.

YMMV
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2011, 08:02 AM
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Desoto, what happened to that? I'm planning on using the original oil pump & distributor (not the 340 stuff)
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:10 AM
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The only HH parts I plan on using is their trans adapter, timing cover, & pistons / rings / brgs.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2011, 08:31 AM
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Hot Heads 340 oil pump

The chrome moly shaft simply wore out in 37,000 miles and I had to replace the pump.

The new Hot Heads pump fell apart on the way home from Louisville this August and I lost the engine (3 rods through the freshly-chromed oil pan).

The stock pump, if the body isn't scored, will work fine. However, if the pump cavity is scored or, otherwise, worn, you'll never be able to reach the maximum factory oil pressure, even with a rebuild kit, as there'll be too much oil leaking around the gears due to the worn housing to even reach the relief valve setting.

FWIW, I ran my hemis (3 different blocks, same crank, rods, heads, cam, pistons) with 25 psi (hot) for well over 200,000 miles until I swapped in the Hot Heads oil pump. I was, finally, able to drive down the road with 55 psi (hot) but the "soft" shaft that Bob Walker puts into his Melling pumps isn't up to the task. It simply wears out. .....but his wife INSISTS that they've "....never had any issues with these pumps and sell one or more pumps every day"
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2011, 08:47 AM
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Thanks for the tip. I'll try to rebuild the original pump if it's ok. From the sludge under the valve covers, I'm sure the pump still works

I may be picking your brain (& Centerline's) from time to time when I start this project
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2011, 09:00 AM
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Install a PCV system

Sludge under the valve covers results when condensation forms on the inside of the valve covers. The stock Chrysler draft tube arrangement never removed any moisture from the valve covers at all. Since the water vapor insde your crank case rises to the highest point before condensing, installing breathers on the valve covers is a given if you want to prevent sludge from forming in the top of the engine.

I've run a PCV system for years. I plugged the oil filler tube with a rag (there's a pair of bavvles near the bottom that prevent the rag from falling onto the timing chain) I installed a bung in my O'Brien Truckers finned vally cover for a hose leading to a PCV valve and I installed a pair of Offenhauser breathers (a birthday gift from Dennis O'Brien at O'Brien Truckers) on the front of his finned valve covers.

Fresh air enters the front of the valve covers via thye breathers and is pulled down the pushrod holes int the valley and, eventually, out through the bung at the back.

Prior to Installing Dennis's finned aluminum accessories in '93, I ran a set of Donovan valve covers and the PCV valve was connected via an elbow in the bottom of the draft tube (took out the 1/8" pipe plug). The bottom of the draft tube itself was plugged with a expandable core plug (rubber, expandable "freeze"plug") to create an enclosed system.

I've never, in 257,000 miles, had any deposits forming on the bottom of the valve covers.
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