Can anyone give me some firsthand reports on the Edelbrock small block Ford set up for early blocks converted using their roller cam and lifter kits, Performer RPM intake and heads and even the Edelbrock water pumps and oil pumps? I will be carburating the engine and putting it into a '55 2 door ranch wagon.

I have an early 70's 302 that I just started to tear down that seems to be fairly low mileage and tight still and want to rebuild it for a streetable rod that can be cruised long distances and get fairly decent mileage with stock 66 Mustang rear end and gears and a C4 or C6 but still pound the pavement on cruise night and light up the tires.

Thanks for advise,

Tom

you will have to grind or machine the heads on the ends were the push rods come threw or you will not be able to get the roller lifter put in with the heads on nor will you be able to get them out.now that is only on the ends front and rear cylinder.
sorry i don't have any pics to show but if you look at an 87 or newer head you will see the differance,there is only about 1/4'' diff.

Thanks Nitro. Who would have thought of that? Everything I read so far said "just do it", no downside or mods.

Got more info now - casting numbers:
Head casting 289 C6AE

Intake casting 289 6 C5AE-9425D Firing Order 15426378

Block casting marks are D20E-6015-AB

Looks like I have a '72 block sporting '66 heads and '65 intake. That should make them 289 heads and intake since the 302 wasn't offered until later.

I've decided to go low budget and produce nominally 300-350 HP at the flywheel with a "GT350" type motor. I will degrease and mic the block, replace the freeze plugs, bore and hone as required, balance the rods and pistons, micro polish the crank journals, buy a "Shelby" intake (Edelbrock aluminum replacement 7121), brand new 650 or so carburetor and put in a new higher lift and longer duration cam to match the intake and new 1 3/4" header tubes.

I will also have a valve job done and replace the seals and seats as needed plus enlarge the valves and the machine shop said they will reblend the bowls to match... only if I can't find a cheap set of GT-40 heads to use and spend the money on them instead.

New cam drive and harmonic balancer plus a high performance oil and water pump will finish it out.

Tom

Found this today and just read it. http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898/

I may have to adjust my approach just a little. Like what he does with stock small-chamber heads. Sounds perfect for my engine parts and goes with my choice of intake. I may still want to thread the rocker studs though. Just seems to be cheap insurance. Hope mine has the trick early rods still in place. Can't wait to pull off the pan when I get some more time and see what I've got.

Tom