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Old 07-31-2004, 03:22 PM
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Anyone have plans to build a 4 link?

Has anyone attempted to build their own 4 link, 4 bar setup? Does anyone have plans for this? It doesn't have to be rear adjustable just safe. I am wanting to run rear airbags on my '39 chevy and get the car as close to the ground as possible.

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Old 08-01-2004, 09:32 AM
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buy a kit

you can get the cheaper kits from jegs and summit by the time you buy all the rod ends bunng ends and tubing get the geometry right you could of installed a pre fabbed kit for cheaper.
Jesse
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:44 AM
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even with a kit from jegs or summit, your going to need to buy the rodends. neither sells a kit that includes them. (that i noted.)

it looks like it would be simple enough to do yourself. just measure, meaasure, measure.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CEE-2017&N=120

why couldn't i or you build that?
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:59 PM
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I just put a 4 link under my 39 International pickup. You can get 3/4 16 left and right heim joints from Race Basics for 10 bucks each and the jam nuts for .50 each. If you want more info drop me a line. Keith in Missouri
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Old 08-03-2004, 06:39 AM
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The problem is not really with making your own parts or not, its with how you set it all up. I just did my own custom 4 link suspension on my car and its not as easy as it may seem. I originaly just started welding things up thinking as long as it works it will be fine. After talking to some people here and alot of reading, I found my geometery was all wrong, I had to learn things I never even heard of before such as instant center, bird cages, ect, ect.. Its alot of hard work to do correctly. I would suggest if you can find a kit for your vehical that would be the way to go. I would of done the same but they didnt have a 4-link suspension for my car.

Ben
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:49 AM
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Thanks guys I may just get the one as pictured from summit. alot of the stuff I have been seeing has been $500 and up. And of course Art Morrison's start at like $2000 for a basic. Thanks for your direction.
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Old 08-03-2004, 04:14 PM
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RodFather, Drop me an e mail. I can hook you up with the guys I got mine from and save you some big bucks. Keith in Missouri

AusioOne@aol.com
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Old 08-03-2004, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by brainsboy
The problem is not really with making your own parts or not, its with how you set it all up. I just did my own custom 4 link suspension on my car and its not as easy as it may seem. I originaly just started welding things up thinking as long as it works it will be fine. After talking to some people here and alot of reading, I found my geometery was all wrong, I had to learn things I never even heard of before such as instant center, bird cages, ect, ect..

Ben
that's where i am now. i've been doing a lot of homework here and i never would've realised how much design work is involved. but at least im learning something! just one question though. what the heck is a birdcage? in the theory aspect i cant find an explanation and in the catalogues they just look like some kind of brace attached to the axle where one of the links attach. can someone explain this term for me please.
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:49 PM
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I believe

I believe its so you can use a 4 link with leaf springs, it makes it so the springs and four link don't bind. lets the axle rotate on the springs.
Jesse
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Old 08-04-2004, 12:47 AM
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my advise would be to learn it,understand it then build it....

sure you can just build one....it might work, you might waste your time..
if you dont get the antisquat #s right your car will do funny stuff when you get awn it.

basically anti squat is what the car will do. squat or raise the rear.

100% it will do nothing. thats the goal then dial it in from there.

get a quality rod end. the cheap ish just wears faster...go with qa1 rod ends...3/4 " build it once and built it right imho
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Old 08-04-2004, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by goose
that's where i am now. i've been doing a lot of homework here and i never would've realised how much design work is involved. but at least im learning something! just one question though. what the heck is a birdcage? in the theory aspect i cant find an explanation and in the catalogues they just look like some kind of brace attached to the axle where one of the links attach. can someone explain this term for me please.
There is a lot of design work that goes into a 4 link or ladder bar suspension that most people don't even think about... Instant center, roll center, anti-squat, Panhard rod length and location, etc., etc. It all needs to be thought out and plugged into the design to make a viable suspension that will work for it's intended purpose. If you don't get it right you will have an ill handling and dangerous car.
The problems with most off the shelf "custom" suspensions are the inherent design differences from car to car and the intended use. Most 4 links and ladder bars are not intended to be driven on the street every day. They are drag race suspensions... cornering performance and potholes are not high priority issues. Solid rod ends wear out very quickly after they get loaded up with mud and dirt and the ride they offer is much less then nice.
The "birdcages" you mentioned are also called "housing floaters". These are an effort to make a ladder bar suspension more streetable. Being able to go around a corner and up an incline without bending bars or breaking rod ends doesn't make the suspension streetable. All they really do is rattle and wear out after you get a couple hundred miles on them.
Staying with a leaf spring package and running a CalTrac style traction bar http://www.calvertracing.com/info/info.htm is probably the best compromise for a street car. It will handle and drive nice on the road and the CalTracs are easily adjusted for the strip.
Mark
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Old 08-04-2004, 09:07 AM
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thanks for the info 60convert and Astroracer. yea, looking at the pictures now, the birdcages make a lot more sence. and thanks for the link also, it looks like that was just the thing i was looking for. my car will be a street car and while at first the plan was for a 1/4 design, it became clear pretty fast that it would not work in the real world of driving on the roads around here. i even tried downloading some of those suspension and geometry calculators but of course there was a conflict with my system so its back to the paper and pencil and a sliderule. in the meantime im studing a 5-link set up on a road car although it just looks like a 4 link with a panhard bar and i will for sure do a lot of measuring, Crazy Larry. now where do i post asking how to use a sliderule? jk
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Old 08-04-2004, 09:43 AM
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Astro is 100% correct..... and with good solid advice as usual. Keep in mind that if you are designing a four bar for street use or for competition use. There are some key factors that you want to stick to when building a street four bar and alot of stuff you dont really have to adhere to as when designing a four bar for the track. One extrmemly good piece of advice that Astro touched on was that you should use either compressed rubber rod ends or poly rod ends. You dont want to use a heim end on a driver. A few keys to get a driver four bar to work well is to
1. Keep the locating bars as long as feesable
2. Keep the pinnacle of the arc of the four bar at ride height. This will ensure your rear stays centered in the wheel well.
3. Keep your panhard bar as long as possible. The longer the panhard bar the less lateral movement you are going to see.
4. Your panhard bar must remain parallel with the ground / axle at ride height. If you are useing a bent panhard bar, then you will take an imaginary line from your two attachment points and make sure that line remains horizontal.
Those are some basic guidelines to adhere to plotting your four bar. If all of this language is greek to you, you may want to take a second look at purchasing a pre manufactured kit. By doing that you should also be getting a complete engineered kit plus you should be getting all of the correct mounting hardware...... You can also sourse up www.webrodder.com . There are some excellent install articles on there, even articles about installing four links with air springs.....
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