I bought a 60 gallon 3.5hp compressor from lowes this past september, I had it wired into my garage professionally , I broke it in like the instructions said, and I really havent used it all that much, except for blowin up a few tires because it has been so cold here, anyhow i got to finally use it last week, I wanted to finally sand down my fenders with it, I turned it on and I was standing right by it, and it built up to 60psi, and something popped inside of it, scared the you no what out of me, anyhow, now it wont do nothing, just hums, so I called the # on the compressor for assistance, all I get is a recording to leave my name and # and no one ever calls back, so I called lowes where I got it at, and I had some young girl tell me that I need to bring it in, Ijust laughed, I tried explaining that its hard wired into my garage, she dint understand, so
I got some manager on the phone, thank god he understood, and gave me another # to call, Ive talked to these people like 4 different times , and they keep giving me the run around that they cant find a service tech in my area, this sucks, cause I paid for the extra warranty, im sure its a good company but I just dont know what to do at this point, sorry for the book
That sucks. Anyway, when you say that it just humms, you're talking about the electric motor, I assume. More than likely, one of the capacitors on the motor blew. You can replace it yourself, but you have to be careful because even with the power off to the motor, these capacitors contain alot of voltage, much like a battery but they will discharge all at once if grounded.
I'd remove the drivebelt and then try to turn the compressor pump by hand first to make sure it wasn't something mechanical there. Then, remove the cover(s) on the capacitors. I've read where they recommend you bleed off any voltage on the capacitors with a wire that has a small resistor installed on it. You'd best do a search online for advice on this if you can. Then after you do this bleed off, remove the two leads on the capacitor, take an ohm meter and do a test on the capacitor. What will happen is the capacitor will take some power from the ohm meter battery supply and the resistance will change as it's hooked up. Then hook the ohm meter leads reversed from how you just did it, the reading you just took will reverse itself. There are also some multimeters that have selections just for testing capacitors.
I know, confusing, and I'm sorry I'm not too good at explaining this, hopefully someone else will give you a better explanation.
I bought a Husky from Home Depot. These compressors are made by Campbell Hausfeld. If your Kobalt is made by them, maybe you can contact them via email at chpower.com
I once heard a pop that almost made me lose a load... ... it turned out that the breather hole for the crankcase on the pump still had the factory plug and when enough pressure built up on it's first full run it poped out with a noise like you describe.
Not sure of the brand but could be the same problem...
.
After finding the vented cover in with the instructions and installing the breather everything was fine.
I haven't had any trouble out of mine but it is an 80 gal. 2 stage. It sounds like the compressor may have locked up and the motor can't turn because of that. Try to turn the compressor by hand to see if it is the motor or compressor. Good luck with it.
If the capacitor blew, he'll probably be able to see the body of the cap is distorted.
By the way...
I have a small compressor that needs a belt. I have searched for a replacement but have not found one. It's a Montgomery Ward [out of business] model. Grainger has a belt, but I am not a business so they wont sell it to me. :evil: Can someone recommend a place to get one? Thanks. :welcome:
I had a problem with mine, that turned out to be a pretty easy fix.
One day it was building pressure and right at 100 psi it started making a mad
squeeking and knocking sound, anyway after shutting it off and checking it
I come to find out that the pully on the motor shaft was slightly loose. So
after tighting down the securing allen type screws it was back to normal.
These compressors are pretty good. The things to watch are,
There is enough Oil in the pump.
Now loose bolts etc.
Scrot,
I had the same problem with a Campbell Hausfeld, needing a belt, serpentine style (multi-v). I went to a local Grainger, told the same thing, but fortunately the company I worked for occasionally bought from them. Guy at the counter managed to get around me giving him an account number and I got the belt. Had to pay cash only.
Did you try MSC? They carry a lot of the same stuff that Grainger does. I don't know if they sell to the average joe on the street.
If the capacitor blew, he'll probably be able to see the body of the cap is distorted.
By the way...
I have a small compressor that needs a belt. I have searched for a replacement but have not found one. It's a Montgomery Ward [out of business] model. Grainger has a belt, but I am not a business so they wont sell it to me. :evil: Can someone recommend a place to get one? Thanks. :welcome:
5dogs,
Any luck with Lowes or the compressor? Really rubbs when you pay for a warranty and they don't give you the service or satisfaction you deserve.
Well I may have a little comfort, hopfully, I got ahold of the manufacture, Im going through them there called ABC manufacturing, they are the same as husky ch kolbalt, and I think one more, anyways theres a 3 yr warranty from them on it , so they hooked me up with another company that was suppose to be here today, but the tech said he was held over at a job site, the company name that is servicing it is called U owe me company, first I thought it was a joke but the lady from ABC manf, said thats who they have in my area, well ill see what happens tommorow..
Well still nothing, I talked to the lady today, and she said that the tech would be at my house around 1, so I waited, it sucks because I work third shift too, anyway, 4pm came and nothing, so I called back and she said they he cannot make it today, am i getting the run around, all I want is my compressor fixed.
I am not a compressor expert, but usually the capacitors are for starting it. If it was running and stopped, it's probably something inside the pump, I would think.
just a quick update.. The tech did finally show up after kicking and pleading over the phone, well turns out to be I blew a check valve, and when that went it took some kinda a seal along with it which was the pop I heard, thats why the motor hummed. he said he would have to order the parts in, I just hope he comes back LOL
Good luck, I'm sure you'll eventually get it straightened out.
I feel your pain, I had a lot of problems with my compressor when
I first got it, and I paid more for a better one just so I wouldn't have
problems. I'm always that "one in a million".
The company got me straightened out eventually but it sure is frustrating to
get something then have to go through all that hassle.
I'm real happy with it now but it was a PIA experience.
Hang in there. imp:
Ya really gotta keep on 'em for resolution.
I bought an I-R made by Campbell Hausfield (believe they make almost of the small ones for everyone) from Lowes. It was supposed to be 3Hp and lots of SCFM to power a die grinder and an occasional small paint job. It had a nameplate rating that said it was 3Hp. Now, 3Hp and a 20 gallon tank should keep up with a 4.5 CFM grinder. Took a look at the motor and lo and behold, it was a GE. Hooray - I was a GE employee (now retired) so I called my counterpart in GE Motors in Ft Wayne. Guess what - my 3 Hp motor is a standard duty 1 Hp with NO special duty rating. With the design sheet in hand, went to Lowes and said that I wanted the compressor that I paid for. After an argument, a threat of small claims court, I now have the compressor that I paid for. I did upgrade to 7Hp and a larger tank and it did cost me a few bucks, but at least it will power any of my tools and HVLP spray guns. What I'm getting at, you really have to read the spec sheets and even call the manufacturer if there is some hazy point - such as what is really the Hp/CFM at what PSI/duty cycle, etc. Lowes spec sheet will probably not tell you all you need to know. Even my ancient 33 year old Sears 1Hp/12 gallon tank unit works better than a lot of the new units and will probably still be running when my new one has been scrapped provided the tank doesn't rust out. :thumbup:
Ireland, You got hit with something we have been b!$#%in about for months here and that is the outrageous downright fraudulent performance claims made by some compressor manufacturers. "Peak" or "maximum developed" HP ratings are pure non-sense and are usually twice, or more, the actual power output. The latest gimmick, since people are finally catching on to the HP game, is a CFM trick called "tank assisted CFM" which is plain b#!!%&^t and nothing more! My hat is off to you for what you did about yours and if more people would complain as loudly as you did this kind of crap would stop.
Looks like we have to keep some pressure on suppliers and manufacturers. Some of the Chinese junk should be sent back where it came from. It ain't only compressors !! Though the final compressor I ended up with is really a 3 Hp/7Hp peak, which I knew when I bought it, it will keep up with my work though it does sometimes get into the 50% duty cycle.
Unfortunately for the shady merchants, I do complain when I don't get value for an advertised product and have made several "enemies" locally. Dumb/inadvertant mistakes are one thing. Gross negligence or outright theft is another.
Luckily, my auto supply and body folks so far seem honest.
Dave
Sears sells 5hp direct drive compressors that are 110 volt,
that's an impossibilty right there.
Their 5hp direct drives have a 1hp motor.
When asked about that they say, "it produces like a 5hp"
That's bull too. Always check the cfm rating.
For power, always check the motor plate for the amp rating.
Amps tell the story, don't be fooled.
There's a conversion for amps that will get you in the ball park for
what hp it really is. I think it's around 7 amps = 1hp, thereabouts.
And remember, 220v is twice the amps shown and will be shown
on the motor plate that way. imp:
If the capacitor blew, he'll probably be able to see the body of the cap is distorted.
By the way...
I have a small compressor that needs a belt. I have searched for a replacement but have not found one. It's a Montgomery Ward [out of business] model. Grainger has a belt, but I am not a business so they wont sell it to me. :evil: Can someone recommend a place to get one? Thanks. :welcome:
try your local Napa store....gates belts. If the guy behind the counter will let ya have a go at the catalog, there are many variations on the poly drive belts.Used to get many different sizes/widths for an industrial customer.
Sears 110 volt direct drive only 1 HP but puts out as much power as a 5 HP I think that is about the best one I have heard yet, LOL, I would like to hear them explain the physics behind that one! I had one guy at a store explain that the "capacitors made up the difference", whatever he meant by that, when I asked how that little cord was going to carry enough power to run a 5 HP motor at 110 volts. I thought his explanation was funny but that one from Sears tops that
At 9 amps, 110 volts and an 80% efficiancy you would get 1.06 Hp. Now 9 times 5 would equal 45 amps with no losses calculated for distance or temperature. A standard house circuit is either AWG 14 or in a kitchen or garage, it is probably AWG 12. NEC says AWG 14 is to be circuit breakered at 15 amps while AWG 12 is 20 amps. To have a heavy enough wire and circuit breaker to carry 5 Hp/45 amps you would need at least AWG 8(read expensive) wire, and probably AWG 6 if you adhered to 125% of the motors ampacity and added in losses. For 220 volt service, the AWG 12 would work tho, but AWG 10 would be best for 5Hp.
what is the diffrence btween PH and HP? I see some compressors having 1 PH motors. I bought a 49.99 2 gallon compressor, supposto make 3 SCFM @ 90 PSI and is 100 PSI max, I run it tandem with a 2 HP 7 gal Sears Companion that is rated for 4.5 SCFM @ 90. the motor on the small 2 gallon draws 2.5 AMP at full load and is rated for 1/4 HP is this right.
nope, no resolution, couldnt get no one to come out to fix it, there was a company that come up and looked at it, and he said hed be back, but never came, gave him a week, , then I called and he said he forgot all bout it and still never came back, so im dishing my own money out on tuesday and getting this thing fixed, wow did I get burnt!!
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