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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:45 AM
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If a drain isnt vented, it will cause drainage problems.....Its like a gas tank that isnt vented, builds up pressure and engine cant get gas.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post

Man that 175 dollar filter sure looks easy to make and a woman's nylon sock fastened to the inlet inside could catch the lint!!!
I know, that's what I was thinking.

Brian
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:25 PM
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DEPENDING ON THe plumbing code in your area you may or may not have a vent thru the roof directly above the laundry that you could snake. if possible while you are snaking the line run the water as your snaking the line. bacteria such as bioclean may help on a preventative basis. if there is no vent you have a few choices but one thing you could use is a studor vent . it is basically a check valve installed above the standpipe (where the hose is connected) designed to allow air in but stop a backup overflowing from it. snaking the line with water running maybe the biggest help. this way the material broken up is flushed immediately.
lowes sells a sediment filter for a pump. i have been using on my pond for a while with good results. it has a ball valve on the bottom to flush out the debris that has accumulated. sells for about $35
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:20 PM
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why isn't there a one way check valev on it..
it's code here.. so it city sewer backs up. it doesn't full your house up..

we haven't had that problem you are having. but mine dumps into the 4" pipe that's going out the house to the street.. and any lint that may get dropped there. is moved out from the rest of the houses water use..
you might want to just pore some draino down the drain every 4-6 months and call it good.. and ad the anti drain back check valve to keep your basement dry..
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E.Furgal View Post
why isn't there a one way check valev on it..
it's code here.. so it city sewer backs up. it doesn't full your house up..

we haven't had that problem you are having. but mine dumps into the 4" pipe that's going out the house to the street.. and any lint that may get dropped there. is moved out from the rest of the houses water use..
you might want to just pore some draino down the drain every 4-6 months and call it good.. and ad the anti drain back check valve to keep your basement dry..
the backup valve you describe protects you from the city sewer his problem is under his house
draino in an older home may work or may rot out your pipe requiring expensive replacement bioclean will not attack your pipes
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 59 wagon man View Post
the backup valve you describe protects you from the city sewer his problem is under his house
draino in an older home may work or may rot out your pipe requiring expensive replacement bioclean will not attack your pipes
valve stills a good idea.. only that'll happen is the washer won't drian if clogged..

and maybe not draino but a safe type like earthworm
allways can hit the line with air to move the lint.. like you'd do with a pool or lawn watering system brfore winter..
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:07 PM
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What size & type [plastic , iron , copper] of pipe does your washer discharge into ? How much slope does the horizontal run under the house have?
Most washing machine's do not have filters , but a "lint sock" on the drain hose will help.
dave
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:34 PM
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Man, there is nothing un-covered on the water side, electrical pre-caution:

For my 2 cents on washing machine performance,,,put a simple surge suppressor on the power side. The control boards crap the bed quite often on brownouts,,,

Last edited by Custom10; 11-04-2012 at 07:35 PM. Reason: i cant spell
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:30 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions! This is what I ended up and we will see how it works. I made a "sink" for the water to be dumped from the washer where I can put a lint trap on the hose. I cleaned out the line under the house and we will see if it can stay that way with this filter catching the lint.

The pipe drain under the house has a nice drop going towards the main line. So I am going to see how this will work out.

Brian



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Old 11-04-2012, 11:18 PM
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We bought an old mobile home as a second property several years ago, and relocated the washer / dryer from the bathroom out to the addition. We cheaped out and hired a red-neck to do the plumbing.

Overall, I think he did a decent job ... but he wasn't able to insulate the pipe where it transitioned between the trailer and addition.

When it gets *real* cold (say -30C) the waste water freezes, and comes back up the pipe.
(Brian probably doesn't have this issue in California )
As a "solution" this guy hose-clamps some kind of boot on the washer outlet hose to pipe connection.
Well, that works like a darn! Only now, we have a soapy waterfall coming over the eaves! (The water was going right up the vent, filling the eavestroughs, freezing, and then eventually just ran straight over them.

It was a bit comical ... couldn't do much but laugh about it until the weather warmed up.

I fixed that the following summer with a heat tape and bit of spray foam insulation.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
We bought an old mobile home as a second property several years ago, and relocated the washer / dryer from the bathroom out to the addition. We cheaped out and hired a red-neck to do the plumbing.

Overall, I think he did a decent job ... but he wasn't able to insulate the pipe where it transitioned between the trailer and addition.

When it gets *real* cold (say -30C) the waste water freezes, and comes back up the pipe.
(Brian probably doesn't have this issue in California )
As a "solution" this guy hose-clamps some kind of boot on the washer outlet hose to pipe connection.
Well, that works like a darn! Only now, we have a soapy waterfall coming over the eaves! (The water was going right up the vent, filling the eavestroughs, freezing, and then eventually just ran straight over them.

It was a bit comical ... couldn't do much but laugh about it until the weather warmed up.

I fixed that the following summer with a heat tape and bit of spray foam insulation.
Wow!!! I bet the sickles were pretty though! LOL

Jester
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 05:50 AM
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Brian....How large is the drain line coming out of the wall?...Looks pretty small to me. That chrome piece looks small. I would think that anything smaller than 1 1/2 " would tend to not empty quick enough
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:23 AM
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Hope that works for you ! But I gotta say , that's the most F####ed up drain "system" I've seen in quite some time!!! Wrong on sooo many levels...

dave
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 07:46 AM
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what is that 1" .. way to small..
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
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Brian....How large is the drain line coming out of the wall?...Looks pretty small to me. That chrome piece looks small. I would think that anything smaller than 1 1/2 " would tend to not empty quick enough
Poncho is right.. These two sections are going to cause you back up.. Pipe is way to small... I have 1.5'' pipe drain and been that way for 21 years and never gave me a day of troble..

You don't want this pipe going down in size at all.. 1.5'' Drain all the way to the main drain pipe is best..


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