[59 wagon man]

the trap shown is a 1 1/2" swing trap it is either 1 1/2" copper or 1 1/2" ips. which if everything is clear it will work. most new plumbing codes and .recommendations would be 2". you maybe able to unscrew the existing trap all the way back to the stack ,it maybe right behind the sheetrock and screw in a new pipe. if your lucky the stack has a 2" ips thread and you can increase the line to 2". you may have to use an adapter to properly transition from the stack to the drainpipe. your plumbing maywork but it doesnt look pretty and may cause suds to overflow due to the turbulence that all of those fittings cause

[MARTINSR]

That pipe is 1 1/2" going into the wall, unless I change it I have no choice, this is 1 1/2" all the way up to "sink" (the vert pipe at the very top) which is 4".

What ticks me off is this washer going into the 1 1/2" you see there at the bottom, I didn't change the piece coming out of the wall, the "trap" you see in chrome at the bottom, that too wasn't changed, I only cut the top off it. It use to go straight up right there about two feet, it then had an 8" or so extension on top of that with the hose from the washer going straight down into it, THAT system has worked for 15 years. Once in a while I had to go under the house and snake thru the clean out because of lint building up. I wanted to stop that and put a filter is the only reason I built this "F####ed up drain "system"" (You're right Dave, it is pretty pathetic)

So last night my daughter thru a load of wash in and it backed up! Unless that old system I had with the pipe coming up two feet and the washer drain going straight into it worked better than my F####ed up drain "system". I can't imagine in my bodyman brain that this would work any different as far as water getting out. So I have to believe I still have a drain clog, I didn't snake from the wall down to the clean out so maybe there is something there?

What kills me is the washer REALLY pushes some water out that drain, if it pushed say 10% less taking 10% longer it would work fine. But check this out, it fills that 4x12" piece of pipe (my "sink") very fast, I then shut the washer off and when no more water is going in, that little "sink" drains VERY fast! I can't believe how fast it drains! I find it hard to believe there is a blockage and that maybe the way it was set up before is the way to go and that the guy who installed the washer back years ago had a good way to go. He did put an extension on that chrome pipe up another 8" or so with PVC before the washer drain hose went in.

All I know is after all that work, then taking off for a volley ball game to see my daughter make BIG improvements and then coming home at 8:00 to have my son tell me he wanted to go practice driving where he made BIG improvements I was riding a high until my daughter fired up the washer. After all that work going down the drain (pardon the pun) I am sure glad my kids had lifted me so high so I didn't collapse in a heap of despair.

[painted jester]

Martin: I can see a few problems: #1 problem is the trap its not a smooth transition and too small, The bigger pipe stepping down to small is building back pressure when water is forced in its hitting that trap flange like a wall and when the washer is shut off it drains faster without pressure, my system is 1 1/2" to 2 " to 2 " trap ! I think if You use pvc glue type trap and pvc pipe it will smooth out the joints and the water will flow better under pressure you may not need to go bigger! Try pulling the trap install the pipes without it and see how it drains and if it drains better do what you need to do from there!!


Is that pvc coming out the wall or just painted metal pipe! it looks bigger then the traps diameter if it is install a bigger diameter trap!

Jester

[MARTINSR]

Thank so much everyone for your suggestions.

Jester, what you are saying makes total sense and my contraption is a bust. Which I am ok with as long as I have a solution.

That is a painted pipe coming out of the wall, this is a 70 year old house, everything PVC, brass or copper I have added and I haven't done anything to the drain/sewage system in the house so that is good old iron or galvanized pipe. I am going to have to pull that off anyway, so I will first snake that area from the wall down to the clean out under house. In the past it was always clear so I didn't do it this time. As said, I need to pull it out anyway so I will just check that area. If it is clear, I will just put the system back the way it was until I feel I need to make or buy an inline filter as I posted earlier.

But I totally understand (now it makes total sense, duh) what you are saying. The water would have to come in pretty slow to be able to exit out the bottom of my "sink" and it just doesn't, it is RUSHING in out of that washer, I think the pump is on nitrous!

Thanks again everyone, wish I would have drawn it up and passed it by you before I dropped about 40 bucks on the parts.

Brian

[painted jester]

Martin: when the water from the wash goes into your home made sink it is being filled with pressure and flowing over the drain hole at the bottom pushing the water away from the hole and when the washer is shut off the water stops moving and flows down the hole and drains the sink fast! The only way to stop that flow effect is to make your sink bigger then the washer capacity! And all those joints and turns are making flow problems it should be a straight pipe down to a trap and out the wall! Just like on a car exhaust system the straighter and less restrictions the better the scavenging!!!

Jester

Ah! I just read your post I see you got It Try it without the trap and see how it drains

[E.Furgal]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

That pipe is 1 1/2" going into the wall, unless I change it I have no choice, this is 1 1/2" all the way up to "sink" (the vert pipe at the very top) which is 4".

.

those inlet rubber houses look only a tad smaller than that feed into your trap..
the pipe before the trap looks like 1" o.d. can't really tell.. but going off what size my rubber washer feed lines are..

[2old2fast]

IF.. you can unscrew that 90* adapter off the pipe coming out of the wall , get a 11/2" pvc or abs trap, pvc solvent weld to thread coupler & about 3' of appropriate 11/2" pipe , then at least you'll have the same dia. all the way... all those couplings & reducers & slip joint connections are reducing the dia. & causing restrictions & turbulence. You really should have a vent stack AFTER the trap , but if the run after the trap is under 3 or 4 feet it'll probably work O.K. [35 yrs. as a remodeling contractor]

dave

size of the inlet hoses has no bearing on washer drain output , that's determined by the washing machine pump...

[E.Furgal]

Originally Posted by 2old2fast

size of the inlet hoses has no bearing on washer drain output , that's determined by the washing machine pump...

understood..

but ever fill a car with a funnel and a gas can because you run it out of fuel..
the funnel fills mighty fast and will overflow even tho the gas can opening is only 1.5"
my old style washer (not a water saver) will pump the backet dry in a minute .. and it's a mighty big basket..

[66GMC]

Well, I'm no physics professor (LOL) but I do understand what you guys are saying in regards to restrictions and flow. I also agree that these newer washing machines muat have extremely robust pumps.

This may sound a bit odd to say on a hotrodding site, but it seems to be all about speed, performance, and efficiency numbers when it comes to selling appliances. "Our new model can cut your wash time by 5 minutes, which means more loads in less time!" ... something equivalent to cutting a couple of 10ths of your ET for us.

Getting back to the physics aspect ... try a little experiment. Fill a 2L (2QT) plastic pop bottle with water about 3/4 full, and then turn it upside down over the sink. Glug, glug, snap, glug ... right?

Do it again, only swirl the water in the bottle first.

You'll find that the water will exit the bottle considerably smoother, as the air can enter through the center of the stream. It's debatable if the bottle empties any faster or not, though ...

Man the trivial and probably useless things you can learn on Hotrodders, huh?

[painted jester]

Poke a vent hole in that bottle and your off to the races LOL

Jester LOL

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by 2old2fast

IF.. you can unscrew that 90* adapter off the pipe coming out of the wall , get a 11/2" pvc or abs trap, pvc solvent weld to thread coupler & about 3' of appropriate 11/2" pipe , then at least you'll have the same dia. all the way... all those couplings & reducers & slip joint connections are reducing the dia. & causing restrictions & turbulence. You really should have a vent stack AFTER the trap , but if the run after the trap is under 3 or 4 feet it'll probably work O.K. [35 yrs. as a remodeling contractor]

dave

size of the inlet hoses has no bearing on washer drain output , that's determined by the washing machine pump...

My only problem with doing much at the wall is the little room I have there behind the drier, but I will be looking at that tonight.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by E.Furgal

understood..

but ever fill a car with a funnel and a gas can because you run it out of fuel..
the funnel fills mighty fast and will overflow even tho the gas can opening is only 1.5"
my old style washer (not a water saver) will pump the backet dry in a minute .. and it's a mighty big basket..

Exactly, this sucker sucks that basket dry like a top fueler! DAMN it moves some water.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by 66GMC

Well, I'm no physics professor (LOL) but I do understand what you guys are saying in regards to restrictions and flow. I also agree that these newer washing machines muat have extremely robust pumps.

This may sound a bit odd to say on a hotrodding site, but it seems to be all about speed, performance, and efficiency numbers when it comes to selling appliances. "Our new model can cut your wash time by 5 minutes, which means more loads in less time!" ... something equivalent to cutting a couple of 10ths of your ET for us.

Getting back to the physics aspect ... try a little experiment. Fill a 2L (2QT) plastic pop bottle with water about 3/4 full, and then turn it upside down over the sink. Glug, glug, snap, glug ... right?

Do it again, only swirl the water in the bottle first.

You'll find that the water will exit the bottle considerably smoother, as the air can enter through the center of the stream. It's debatable if the bottle empties any faster or not, though ...

Man the trivial and probably useless things you can learn on Hotrodders, huh?

Hey, this is much more interesting than talking about politics!

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by painted jester

Martin: when the water from the wash goes into your home made sink it is being filled with pressure and flowing over the drain hole at the bottom pushing the water away from the hole and when the washer is shut off the water stops moving and flows down the hole and drains the sink fast! The only way to stop that flow effect is to make your sink bigger then the washer capacity! And all those joints and turns are making flow problems it should be a straight pipe down to a trap and out the wall! Just like on a car exhaust system the straighter and less restrictions the better the scavenging!!!

Jester

Ah! I just read your post I see you got It Try it without the trap and see how it drains

That's ok, now I understand it even better.

Brian

[poncho62]

I still think its mainly a venting problem....If you had a roof vent right there, it would flow much better