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Old 12-08-2012, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuickLeSabre1960 View Post
I am in the somewhat early research phase of painting my car and I've been looking through the PPG catalog and have somewhat put some products together for what I will need. I am having to replace some panels on the car as well as take off one flaking single stage repaint probably done in the 80's as well as the factory color. The final color will be red which is why I have the red epoxy primer.

Here is what I have put together, this is all in the PPG Deltron line:
DF700 TECHNIFILL Plus Body Filler

DP74LF Epoxy Primer
DP401LF or DP402LF Catalyst?



DZ3 Light Gray
DTV801 Fast Evaporating Thinner


DP74LF Epoxy Primer as sealer

DBC basecoat

DC4000 Clear


Does this seem like a good starting point to start researching more in depth on these individual products or do I need to move some stuff around?

Thanks, GM
Have you bought these products or are they on your wish list? If you have not purchased them then I will make a few suggestions.

Filler, there is nothing wrong with the filler you have chosen, it does the job. A filler that is easier to work with is Fiberglass Evercoat rage and or Rage Gold. This is a premium light weight filler that allows excellent working time, long durability and easy to sand. I have been a PPG Rep and I feel that Rage is a better product.

First, what you need to do is strip the vehicle of paint, use either a DA (Dual Action) sander with 80 grit or a chemical stripper like Marhyde's Aircraft strpper. If you use a DA and 80 grit, set your orbital in a rotary mode, not the vibrating mode...don't stay in one spot to long, keep the sander moving so you don't build up heat and warp the panel. Also keep your paper sharp, don't let it get dull, dull paper will cause heat and warp the panel as well. If you use chemical stripper, be prepared for a bad smell and a mess all around. They both work, they both effective... on large panels like hoods, roofs and deck lids I prefer going the chemical route. Even an experienced person can have trouble with warping a large panel when using a DA. If you use a chemical stripper, it may take several coats to remove the paint. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations as far as time required for the stripper to work. When the majority of paint is removed, clean the surface with thinner, or an appropriate solvent, the remaining paint can then be removed with a DA.

After the vehicle is totally stripped, do what ever body work you need to do, replace panels, repair dents etc.

The Epoxy Primer, hardner and reducer are fine. The only problem with PPG's DP line of epoxy primer is that it does not sand well at all. Newer technologies of epoxy primer give you the build required, sand well and still afford you the rust protection you need. One product that I personally have not used, but have talked to people that have and they swear by the product is SPI epoxy, other companies make similar well sanding epoxies.

Depending on the epoxy primer you use, if your using PPG's DP line it should be top coated with a 2K high build primer, I'm from Canada and we do not use the regular 2K primer that PPG has to offer in the US. (We have laws that require that we meet VOC legislation and we are not allowed to purchase all of any manufacturer's offerings that don't meet these requirements), use any quality 2K primer.

When in final primer, (this will take more than 1 prime session) block your vehicle with either a minimum of 400 grit dry or 600 grit wet sand paper until all panels are straight (you will have burn through's, body work repairs etc. and need to re prime several times before you are ready for paint).

I never use sealer...it is not required if your prep on the body of the vehicle has been done properly...I repeat, I never use sealer.

The DBC line is a quality base coat and do not have an issue with it at all. The clear coat DC 4000 is a respectable clear...I would prefer the Concept 2021 clear...In my opinion it has a deeper gloss, easier to apply, great hold out and tough as nails. The only draw back is that if you are color sanding and polishing your car, you need to complete this task with 4 weeks of painting...if a longer period of time is left between color sanding and polishing, it can be a touch more difficult to bring the gloss to your expectations.

There is much more involved in getting a vehicle ready for paint than discussed in my response to your questions about products. What I have given you are my opinions, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask and I will help in any way I can.

Hope this helps.
Ray
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