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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
The link is on Reply # 24

The master cylinder I guess is the red one and it goes to the smaller one below it that sends it to the 4 brakes. That's the one I don't know the name and it's just hanging there 15" off the frame because they were lazy.

Thanks
I don't have the picture in front of me but I think it's your "proportioning valve".

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 09:44 PM
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Thanks. I'm going to replace the rear pick up bed with a flat bed and stakes to make it different then the other F1 that goes to the shows around here so that will make it lighter and I'll put the fuel tank back there to help out with weight distribution.

For the front I'm going to replace the super heavy metal fenders and hood with a complete fiberglass front end but I'm still looking for vendors. I have another thread on that :

1949 F1 One Piece Fiberglass Front
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Thanks
I don't have the picture in front of me but I think it's your "proportioning valve".
Here you have a close up and another one of the great installation. It's all coming out this week anyway getting the frame ready for sand blasting.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 12:01 AM
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I is a mess, but, the good thing is that is all there...use it as a road map, clean it up and organize it as you replace, Honestly, I've seen worse, I love pictures like this because you can show people after what you had to go through.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:55 AM
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It is definitely a 350 from a 1969-1980, as far as headers you need to check the chassis for what you need clearance for steering or etc. looks like a set of heddman headers on there now but there is usually a weleded tag on it to identify it . dextron is usually a safe bet check the pan shape anyways.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 07:54 AM
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Yeah Ray I've got pictures of everything so people later will be able to see how NOT to do it versus how to do it correctly. As I continue the rebuild I see it's going to take longer than I expected but I'm in no hurry because I want to do it right now so later I don't have to come back to redo something. Besides it's easier to do it now with everything exposed like this.

Thanks nfsjoe. The headers fit ok and don't rub against anything while driving, taking them off is another story though. I tried to take off the right header and it won't come off unless I remove the starter or lift the engine.

I was going to finding out if I can install an engine mount that's a couple of inches taller to give me more space, if not then I might get my neighbor to fabricate something if it won't affect anything else. My question now is since this is a complete front Camaro clip does that mean that all Camaros back then had to raise the engine or remove the starter to remove the headers? If that's so then I might just leave everything as is to avoid possible complications later. Still on the fence about that until I get more info.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 07:59 AM
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Just a short note and maybe the best advice anyone can give you. Tag and Bag everything you take of your project. Even if you know your going to throw it out when your build is finished. By keeping all the pieces and they are marked as to where they came from, you will have reference points for replacing bolts, parts and whatever you need. I promise that by doing this your build will be so much easier. When I'm done I like take a picture of the pile of left over parts and pieces, it shows people what is required to complete a build.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:10 AM
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I was doing that for the bolts I knew I was going to replace but for another reason. It was to make my life easier when I went to buy the new bolts and nuts so I didn't have to guess the sizes. Now with your idea it's even better. When I'm done I'll take that picture with all the leftovers and make it part of the video log. Too bad I threw away the ton of black electric tape, that alone would almost fill a picture frame !!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
Yeah Ray I've got pictures of everything so people later will be able to see how NOT to do it versus how to do it correctly. As I continue the rebuild I see it's going to take longer than I expected but I'm in no hurry because I want to do it right now so later I don't have to come back to redo something. Besides it's easier to do it now with everything exposed like this.

Thanks nfsjoe. The headers fit ok and don't rub against anything while driving, taking them off is another story though. I tried to take off the right header and it won't come off unless I remove the starter or lift the engine.

I was going to finding out if I can install an engine mount that's a couple of inches taller to give me more space, if not then I might get my neighbor to fabricate something if it won't affect anything else. My question now is since this is a complete front Camaro clip does that mean that all Camaros back then had to raise the engine or remove the starter to remove the headers? If that's so then I might just leave everything as is to avoid possible complications later. Still on the fence about that until I get more info.
Chances are that that era of Camaro needed to remove the starter to replace headers. Not really that big a deal and common to do do when headers are involved. I would leave it alone because if you raise the engine your also changing the geometry between your engine/transmission and your rear diff. Just easier.

You are so right to do it correctly now, it's amazing how many people have the time and the money to do it right the second time.

Ray
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Chances are that that era of Camaro needed to remove the starter to replace headers. Not really that big a deal and common to do do when headers are involved. I would leave it alone because if you raise the engine your also changing the geometry between your engine/transmission and your rear diff. Just easier.

You are so right to do it correctly now, it's amazing how many people have the time and the money to do it right the second time.

Ray

Your so correct and I'm not one of those with the time or money to do it right the second time PLUS I hate doing things over. One of the things my parents taught me, and was later reinforced in the Air Force, is to do things right the first time. As a pilot I HAVE to do things right the first time too because I might not get a chance to do it again.

Thanks for clarifying the Camaro thing too. If that's how it was then that's how it stays. After discovering so many badly installed things I just wanted to make sure it wasn't another "previous owner screw-up".

My neighbor (not the mechanic, the one helping with the rust removal) recommended that I find a good set of factory manifolds and replace the headers. He says they'll fit better and I'll be able to remove them easier. His main reason however was with temperatures. He says while driving when you back off the throttle that cold air hits the exhaust valves and they won't last as long. When you use a factory manifold since they have so much metal (thick walled vs thin walled headers) they maintain the temp around the exhaust valves.

That didn't sound right to me and besides you heard the cam in it and I thought it might affect it negatively by not letting the engine breath to it's max potential like it does with the headers.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 09:20 AM
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Again your right on the header issue. During the course of this build your going to get all kinds of information and a bunch of "you shoulda" and "I woulda". Build it the way you want, get the advice that makes sense. I've been using headers for years and so have many other people, I have never burnt a valve because of headers. I did buy a 1992 Chevy 1/2 ton that did burn a valve with stock exhaust, it's all relative and the most important thing is what you want. Besides, headers look and sound cool and that's part of the "Hot Rod" experience. One thing I will say about headers though, they do have a tendency to loosen up at the head and leak. Easy fix is to purchase header looks that don't allow the header bolts to loosen up and burn gaskets, any speed shop will have them.

Ray
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 09:59 AM
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when you get to doing or planning your brakes:
First,your truck originally had a single reservoir master cylinder,it has been upgraded to a dual reservoir(the red thing)
Do you have front disc brakes now?will you ever have disc brakes added to the rear?
The master cylinder needs to fit the application.

next is the proportioning valve. Thats the junction for the brake lines after the master cylinder. You can get adjustable valves.This makes it possible to limit the pressure to the rear in the back tires tend to lock up or allow more pressure if you carry heavy loads.
NOTE: disc brakes require more brake pressure than drum brakes.
Basically Im just saying you need to plan a complete brake system before upgrading or if you are repairing or dealing with any issues.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
when you get to doing or planning your brakes:
First,your truck originally had a single reservoir master cylinder,it has been upgraded to a dual reservoir(the red thing)
Do you have front disc brakes now?will you ever have disc brakes added to the rear?
The master cylinder needs to fit the application.

next is the proportioning valve. Thats the junction for the brake lines after the master cylinder. You can get adjustable valves.This makes it possible to limit the pressure to the rear in the back tires tend to lock up or allow more pressure if you carry heavy loads.
NOTE: disc brakes require more brake pressure than drum brakes.
Basically Im just saying you need to plan a complete brake system before upgrading or if you are repairing or dealing with any issues.
Excellent advice, Planning your project in the end will give you exactly what you want. With respect to the project I'm working on, as I have mentioned, I have many many hours of research, well over 100 hours and haven't turned a wrench. All this planning allows me to get a game plan and I will always know what I need to do next. Start with your foundation, "frame" and like a house, work your way up from there. Good call Vinnie...the end of a successful build can always be traced back to the planning.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Again your right on the header issue. During the course of this build your going to get all kinds of information and a bunch of "you shoulda" and "I woulda". Build it the way you want, get the advice that makes sense. I've been using headers for years and so have many other people, I have never burnt a valve because of headers. I did buy a 1992 Chevy 1/2 ton that did burn a valve with stock exhaust, it's all relative and the most important thing is what you want. Besides, headers look and sound cool and that's part of the "Hot Rod" experience. One thing I will say about headers though, they do have a tendency to loosen up at the head and leak. Easy fix is to purchase header looks that don't allow the header bolts to loosen up and burn gaskets, any speed shop will have them.

Ray

Back in my early days I used to have a Toyota Corolla with headers and we installed studs because we removed them so much for whatever reasons. We preferred to strip a stud and replace it than to strip a head. I was thinking about that but since my space here is so tight I'll stick to bolts to make it easier to remove the headers. Now to your great advice on locking bolts.

I found these 3 types, locking washer on top with a clip ($22), bolt with hole and a steel spring type wire to lock it ($14), and then something I'm very accustomed to in aviation: Safety Wire ($free!). If safety wire is good for every bolt in aviation then it has to be good for headers.

I owned aircraft back in the day and I have 2 rolls of safety wire here left over so my first inclination was to have my neighbor drill a hole in the bolts (a penny saved is a penny earned). He has all kinds of equipment but since I don't know the condition of these current bolts I have I'm going to buy some bolts with the holes in them and If I can't get those then I'll buy the $14 ones and just use safety wire instead of those springy wires.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 10:44 AM
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There you go...both methods will work. Myself I like the shiny ones, they do the same job, but they are shiny...Kind of a personal preference and if you have safety wire, your good to go. Carlos, it's good to see that your using the experience that you have gained from the aviation industry. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you don't come up with new and revolutionary ideas that can benefit everyone in the hobby. These 2 industries have overlapped since their infancy and I'm sure there are many more ideas that can be utilized one from the other.
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