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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 03:45 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
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Hi Carlos...Cobalt327 is right. Still check your proportioning valve to make sure it is a PV 4, easy to do just Google "PV 4 Proportioning valve" and you will get a bunch of pictures to cross over to your valve...If you don't have a PV 4 they are cheap, about $25 to $50 depending on which brand you choose. I tried to post a picture of one but my computer skills are rather limited.

I build and have built many cars and have usually gone with a complete brake package from one of the major aftermarket suppliers. They come with everything when ordered properly, this way I have no trial and error (not because I have a bunch of money I don't know what to do with, more because that's what my customers want and it's what I recommend). The last build I did with "off the shelf" brake parts was a 37 Chevy but, it was a disc/drum set up and it was many years ago. I have consulted local builders and in unison they have recommended this set up for your truck.

Hope this helps
Ray

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 04:27 PM
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I went to the local auto store and they have the MC in stock. I'm going to deal with that on Monday after I install the T/A rear this weekend. Today I'm working on getting all the old paint and tar out of the cab on the inside. Once I finish cleaning that out then attack any rust spots I can't remove with a wire brush with Locktite Extend. Some fiberglass work to cover pinholes on the floor is next step.

I wish I could change the title on this thread to "1949 F1 Restoration Q&A Guide for Newbies" because it's gone over so much with so much to go.

Ray if you send me a link to where you found it for $25 I'd appreciate it. Cheapest I've found is $49.95
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 04:51 PM
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I can dig up a link for you but remember if you buy the part on line and not locally your going to pay freight and if you have a problem, they send you the wrong part, quality etc. you pay the freight back. Also check the proportioning valve you have. The PV 4 was a common GM valve.

Another thing you can do to get better pricing is to go to your favorite Jobber and tell him that you are building a project truck and you would like to keep the majority of your purchases at one place but that you need a discount. Pick a jobber that sells paint, car parts, possibly body panels and will meet your requirements for this build. Also ask your mechanic/shop owner neighbor where he buys most of his parts and maybe ask if you can use his name and pay cash for the parts. If he OK's this you will save between, 20 and maybe even 50% on your parts.

These are just thoughts and things that are not uncommon in the industry, people do it all the time. If a jobber agrees, bring them donuts or coffee for the staff, that way they won't forget you and you will get all the help you need. The old one hand washes the other.

Ideal would be if your neighbor lets you use his name...you will save big time.

It might sound a little outlandish but it does work.

It's a lot like sex if you don't ask you won't get. (Sorry just had to get that similarity in)
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 05:15 PM
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I just checked on line for a proportioning valve and did find one for $22.00...shipping was $15.00 and it was an off shore knock off...try the jobber route like I just mentioned.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:00 PM
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I'll talk to my neighbor to see what he tells me. As soon as I get the T/A rear mounted this weekend and start with the brakes I'll get the PV locally, I'm sure it has to be around here somewhere.

Just to show you what I'm talking about when I say the previous owner was a sloppy SOB, take a look at what I found as I started stripping with the pressure washer after dousing it with paint stripper.

That's aluminum foil apparently to hold the bondo in place but there was more foil than bondo! In some places there was foil and practically no bondo whatsoever. Too bad the pictures came out blurry, I was holding the pressure washer hose with one hand and taking the picture with my right hand and I'm a lefty.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
I went to the local auto store and they have the MC in stock. I'm going to deal with that on Monday after I install the T/A rear this weekend. Today I'm working on getting all the old paint and tar out of the cab on the inside. Once I finish cleaning that out then attack any rust spots I can't remove with a wire brush with Locktite Extend. Some fiberglass work to cover pinholes on the floor is next step.

I wish I could change the title on this thread to "1949 F1 Restoration Q&A Guide for Newbies" because it's gone over so much with so much to go.

Ray if you send me a link to where you found it for $25 I'd appreciate it. Cheapest I've found is $49.95
Summit has it for $46, but there's still shipping and tax. If you were ordering other parts from Summit at the same time it wouldn't be so bad. At least w/Summit there's no prob returning or exchanging parts.

Classic Performance PV-4 - SummitRacing.com
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:09 PM
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Thanks guys. I found it on eBay and I only have to specify I want the PV4 instead of PV2 at checkout. $49 includes free shipping. I'll wait until next week because I want to make sure I don't already have it. If not and I can't get it locally then I'll order it here :

GM Car Proportioning Prop Valve Disc Drum PV 2 4 Brakes | eBay
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:16 PM
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The joys of building a "Hot Rod". In all my years I'm always amazed at what some people do and try and pass off as correct. Thank God you've got the vehicle and will be rescuing it from previous owners.

I think you will be surprised at how much money you can save when you have the arrangement set up with your local jobber. Here's a short story, (I know I have a story for everything). When I first moved to Ottawa I didn't know any of the local suppliers and my wife's car needed front brakes...I walked into my local NAPA store and got a price. Pads, Rotors, caliper pins and bushings and a few tools that I hadn't unpacked yet. The price was over $250.00. I started talking to the owner/manager and just mentioned the name of the NAPA manager that I dealt with out west and how good a relationship I had with him and the store. The Manager excused himself, came back 5 minutes later and dropped the price in half. He took the time to call the manager out west and I got the break on my brakes and all other parts I've needed since then...Carlos, it's worth a try, the worst thing that can happen is they charge you the same price. If one jobber isn't interested, the on around the corner may very well be.

You will curse the previous owner many more times before your done with this truck. Stay focused and get the information to do it right and you will have exactly what you want.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:28 PM
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One thing I have is determination and I've never been a quitter so I know that eventually it's going to get done and when it is it will have been done correctly. Thanks to you guys of course and your guidance.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
The transmission is a TH350.
Got a question. I just removed the engine and tranny a few minutes ago and took a picture of the oil pan. It looks exactly like the THM350 like Cobalt said however in the ID page it says :

"The THM200 and the THM250 have pans shaped like a THM350, HOWEVER, the THM200 will have the
words HYDRAMATIC DIV. and METRIC stamped into the pan."

It's still very dirty so I might find stamped words on it but I haven't seen anything yet. My question is if it doesn't have anything stamped how would I then know the difference between the THM250 and the THM350? Would it be that it can't be attached to an 8 cylinder due to the bell housing bolt pattern?
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 01:57 PM
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You would have seen the METRIC in the pan, its quite large.



The THM200 and the THM250 have pans shaped like a THM350, HOWEVER, the THM200 will have the words HYDRAMATIC DIV. and METRIC stamped into the pan.

Chevy Automatic Transmission Description & Usage
THM200 - Light duty, "metric" 3 speed transmission.

THM250 - Used in small 4 cylinder cars (Vega, Sunbird, Monza) from 1973 to 1981 and some Nova/Camaro/Chevelle 6 cylinders in 1974 & 75. The 4 cylinder models have 4 large cooling holes near the torque converter, while on the "bigger cars" there are no cooling holes.

THM200-R4 - Used in GM rear wheel drive cars with the 3.8 V6, 305 & 350 Olds and 301 pontiac from 1981 to 1989. This is a 4 speed, overdrive unit.

THM350 - Medium duty 3 speed trans used from 1969 to 1989, Used in Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Chevrolet cars and Chevy & GMC light trucks until 1987. Generally used in straight and V6 and small block engines. Generally able to handle up to 400 foot pounds of torque
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:00 PM
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Hi Carlos...very slight difference...you may need a picture. try this site.

www.craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/boxchevy/th250

Should work

Ray
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62 View Post


The THM200 and the THM250 have pans shaped like a THM350, HOWEVER, the THM200 will have the words HYDRAMATIC DIV. and METRIC stamped into the pan.

Chevy Automatic Transmission Description & Usage
THM200 - Light duty, "metric" 3 speed transmission.

THM250 - Used in small 4 cylinder cars (Vega, Sunbird, Monza) from 1973 to 1981 and some Nova/Camaro/Chevelle 6 cylinders in 1974 & 75. The 4 cylinder models have 4 large cooling holes near the torque converter, while on the "bigger cars" there are no cooling holes.

THM200-R4 - Used in GM rear wheel drive cars with the 3.8 V6, 305 & 350 Olds and 301 pontiac from 1981 to 1989. This is a 4 speed, overdrive unit.

THM350 - Medium duty 3 speed trans used from 1969 to 1989, Used in Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Chevrolet cars and Chevy & GMC light trucks until 1987. Generally used in straight and V6 and small block engines. Generally able to handle up to 400 foot pounds of torque

Yes that's exactly the page where I got it but it still doesn't tell me how to figure out the difference between the THM250 and the THM350 unless like I imagine the bell housing on the 250 won't let it mate with an 8 cylinder SBC.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Hi Carlos...very slight difference...you may need a picture. try this site.

www.craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/boxchevy/th250

Should work

Ray
Can't get the link to work. I might need to get my passport out because the link is in Canada?
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:02 PM
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Hey Poncho 62...your one Canadian that's pretty fast on the draw...what kind of cam have you got in your computer? Good info buddy.

Ray
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