[BarryK]

RE: aod to 312 Y-block, I started the car today and got all the fluids adjusted and went thought gears of trans to adjust fluid level. All is good, I think no leaks and nothing installed backwards as rear wheels do turn and not the fronts!

The more I looked at the locar cable the more I hated it, so I fabricated a manual throttle rod to the trans like what was on the fordomatic and put the locar in cupboard.

Now the manual adjustments say block this and this.
Well my situation don't apply, so.
If I understand this right:

there should be 0 lbs pressure at idle?
and 35lbs pressure at what RPM?
Any ideas or do I have it towed to trans shop?

[macx]

First, go here for a pretty good explanation

http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/431000_inst.htm

The gauge block they talk about is from .396" to .400" thick.

The trans should be lukewarm, neither hot nor cold.

The pressure should be taken at idle (make sure it's at
warm idle and not cold/high idle), in drive, with the
brakes on and the wheels not moving. Target is 33 psi.
If you can't get it down to below 5 psi with the gauge
block removed, you can lower the 33 psi to as low as
28 psi, but only if necessary. Some people do go a
little higher, but you want to avoid creating too harsh
or late shifts, then the tv pressure is too high.

One other thing, you need to make sure you have the
right amount of travel from idle to full throttle.

An option would be to go junkyard searching for an older
light truck or big car with an AOD and a carb.

Someplace I've got a link for hooking an AOD to a
Holley carb AH HA!

http://www.shockley.net/Holley-AOD.asp


Some other info that may be of interest:

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article111.html

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article48.html
http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/efi/
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/33598/
http://www.windsor-fox.com/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/987/

Enjoy!
macxx1@excite.com

[KULTULZ]

The more I looked at the locar cable the more I hated it, so I fabricated a manual throttle rod to the trans like what was on the fordomatic and put the locar in cupboard.

Now the manual adjustments say block this and this.
Well my situation don't apply...

Well, actually it does. If you have fabricated a TV rod, it must maintain the same geometry during travel as OEM and the first adjustment procedure in the offered article must be performed.

What was it about the cable setup you didn't like? Is the installation hidden by the air cleaner or is it exposed?

As previously mentioned, POLICE applications (351W) (CARB-CFI) had A FACTORY CABLE SETUP. If you can find one, it may be the way for you to go.

A neat thing I saw recently was a guy that did a 351W and AOD swap to his '57. When you first look at it, it appears as the origional Y-BLOCK installation but as you keep looking, it becomes obvious something is not quite right.

He retained the origional large air cleaner and painted a flat set of SBF covers (early) black and attached THUNDERBIRD SPECIAL decals. He said he lost count of how many he fooled with this...

[BarryK]

Thanks Macx,
That kinda put everything together in my mind what needs to be done.


Kultulz,
Its me I hate cables and they just don't look right on a 312.
Its just me.

Barry

[macx]

Hey -

I was zeroing in on the "cable" part and skimmed
right over the fact you've got it hooked to a 312!

Neat!

I can see why you want a hard linkage, just "fits"
better with that vintage iron!

I guess the other stuff (efi etc) really doesn't apply
to your situation - sorry!

And I thought one of those dealt more with transplanting
an AOD than an efi engine. Guess I'd better review
some of my stuff before pasting it!

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by BarryK

Kultulz,

Its me I hate cables and they just don't look right on a 312.
Its just me.

Barry

I agree regarding the cable.. Yours must be more of a restoration than a modification?

I am not saying the rod will not work, but it has to maintain a certain geometry. It also has to have the adjusment feature shown in the TCI illustrations.

If you are successful with it (and I don't see why it can't be), make sure you share the solution with us. Guys that have BIRDS and dedicated restorations will really appreciate it...

[BarryK]

What I did was hook up the old fordomatic rod to the bell crank and than hooked the Aod rod to the transmission marked both at fire wall bottom and cut and welded together, so I do have the adjustment at both places if needed.

This car has been keep original but does get driven a lot so it does have front disc's, avenger carb, electric fan and electric fuel pump and now Aod.
I have all the original stuff in cupboard but to the point since the car will never be sold may start unloading.

[BarryK]

Guys, thanks for your help.

I just finished up adjust and its reading right at 33 at normal operating temp.
It really just seemed to simple, so that scares me.

I have checked and rechecked this about 10 times but still not sure I will drive it. There is a trans place about 5 miles down road and may drive it there or trailer it.
It s new trans and did burn up a new 700 by not adjusting right but with the Xframe on the T-Bird you have to pull engine to pull trans and that would be worse than buying another trans!

[murrsue]

Just read this old post today for the first time. I'm worried about the 33psi advice you were given. The 33psi is when you temporarily install a spacer at the end of the Lokar cable during adjustment only. When you remove the spacer pressure drops to 0 or near zero (at idle). You see the gauge cannot read less than zero, so the idea of the spacer is to adjust the cable tight enough that the pressure is just barely down to zero once the spacer is removed. You could have an inch of slack and still read zero. You want the adjustment as tight as possible without coming higher than zero, although some say 0-3 lbs is alright.

[macx]

The 33 psi is the target pressure, variable up somewhat or down
to a minimum of 28 psi, at idle with a lukewarm trans, in gear with
brakes on, and with a .396" to .400" gauge block holding the cable
out of the bracket as recommended by Ford in their oem service
manuals. They further state that when the block is removed the
pressure should drop to less than 5 psi.

[murrsue]

Macx, I don't disagree with you. I was just trying to explain the reason for the temporary gauge block as many are confused for the reason it is used. In Barry's case he can't use a spacer because he's not using a cable. The part with the car in gear and brakes on is not something I've not been told before. I'm curious to check this way out to see what difference it makes as opposed to idling in neutral.

[Crosley]

I believe it is recommended to have the tranny in neutral , engine at proper idle RPM for the TV pressure adjustment. This is the method I have used

[macx]

That method is right out of my factory service manual.

It is also out of the ATSG rebuild manual, which seems to be
pretty much a direct copy of the Ford manual.

Also, here's a link that says much the same thing

http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/431000_inst.htm

This also shows how to do it with a carb.

I understand that there is 2 to 3 psi difference -
I believe less if I recall right - between drive and
neutral.

As it also says the pressure can be as low as 28 if
necessary to get the pressure without the gauge block
down to 5 psi or less, and many aftermarket shops
say it's ok to have somewhat more than the 33, it's
probly not that big of a deal, but more like the
optimum recommended setting.

[Crosley]

Often I found that what the book says and what works in real life are 2 different things. The AOD is a PITA at times to get the shift timing correct

As for the TCI page you listed, I would suggest you read it closer. Here is a paragraph quote from it;

Apply parking brake, place shifter in Neutral, remove air cleaner and shut off air conditioner. If equipped with a vacuum operated throttle modulator, disconnect and plug vacuum line to this unit. If equipped with a throttle solenoid positioner or an idle speed control, do not disconnect either of these units.

Originally Posted by macx

That method is right out of my factory service manual.

It is also out of the ATSG rebuild manual, which seems to be
pretty much a direct copy of the Ford manual.

Also, here's a link that says much the same thing

http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/431000_inst.htm

This also shows how to do it with a carb.

I understand that there is 2 to 3 psi difference -
I believe less if I recall right - between drive and
neutral.

As it also says the pressure can be as low as 28 if
necessary to get the pressure without the gauge block
down to 5 psi or less, and many aftermarket shops
say it's ok to have somewhat more than the 33, it's
probly not that big of a deal, but more like the
optimum recommended setting.