![]() |
|
|
|
|||||
|
Apologize in advance Ladderbar vs 4/3 Link
Okay, I've searched all the discussions about 4 link vs. 4 bar vs. triangulated 4 link vs. wishbone vs. ladder bar and still have a question.
I'm in the process of going airbag on the back and realize there's some good stuff out there available but I still need to ask a question. Is there anything inherently wrong with a ladder bar setup? In the old days, we ran coils mounted and ladderbars all the time with great results but I see that has become the least used technology these days. Assuming the ladderbars have adjustment to enable some limited fine tuning, what am I missing that makes them undesirable? It'll be on a 41 Chevy Coupe, not looking to race it or drive it everyday or cross-country...... Thanks everybody.......John |
|
||||
|
ladder bar
Their is absolutely nothing wrong with a ladder bar setup, As for the 4 link setups they work best for drag cars, because they are more ajustable. Run your ladder bar, i personally have a 1998 Sonoma pro-Street car and expect it to run mid 10's with ladder bar setup.
Zipper |
|
||||||
|
The main reason folks do not run ladder bars IMHO is they use up so much room under the car. A lot of them require floor modifications and do not leave a lot of room for the exhaust. I prefer the 4 bar set up myself. I have used about everything over the years ( except air bags ) and found the 4 bar set up to work the best for me ...
You can see my latest project ( with 4 bars on coils ) in my project journal. Deuce ... |
|
||||||
|
Ladders don't have to take up much room. I made a set for a mid powered car and mounted them like truck arms or slapper bars -- bolted right under the axle. Used 2"x1" 11 gauge tubing welded to the stock axle plate so I kept the shock mounts. Use shims from a 4x4 shop to set pinion angle. Since you've run ladders there's no need to go into any setup details! This is a more rigid setup than some ladders though, so will ride a bit rougher. I had no handling problems and the ride was pretty good as long as roads were relatively smooth. I used large rubber bushings in the front for some flexibility (from an 80s Caprice, front lower bar bushings) and a panhard rod.
Linkage suspension rides better and can handle better. That's the main reason for using it on a street/strip car. Ladders are cheap but work, ride suffers on a rough road. And as pointed out, you can adjust links much easier -- no shims!! |
|
|
| Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Port or Full time vacuum | cool rockin daddy | Engine | 129 | 10-05-2010 03:00 PM |
| detonation | 71 chevy c-10 | Engine | 33 | 04-29-2010 12:20 PM |
| ignition timing | bad502 | Engine | 21 | 02-20-2006 06:57 PM |
| distrib question: vacuum vs mech advance | JUSTINH | Engine | 4 | 08-20-2003 11:21 AM |
| Mallory Uni-lite advance weight springs....? | nastynova | Engine | 7 | 07-28-2003 09:45 PM |