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Old 02-02-2014, 11:03 AM
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A-arm top bushing removal

It's a 70 Lemans and I am trying to remove the A-arm top bushing. Fender and fender well are removed. A-arm is still installed. I was looking for a puller from the parts store but didn't see any that would fit.

Any ideas on how to remove this besides taking it to the repair shop? The car is not driveable.

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Old 02-02-2014, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beertracker View Post
It's a 70 Lemans and I am trying to remove the A-arm top bushing. Fender and fender well are removed. A-arm is still installed. I was looking for a puller from the parts store but didn't see any that would fit.

Any ideas on how to remove this besides taking it to the repair shop? The car is not driveable.
Unless you have the correct Kent-Moore tools, the upper arm needs to be removed from the car. Once the arm is out, without a press you'll need to burn or cut the rubber out of the bushings, then hammer out the shells. You can burn the rubber out with a propane torch, but it's a smoky, sticky mess. A rotozip tool is a cleaner option. I used a bench vice as a backup, with the correct size piece of pipe to hammer the new bushings in. Be sure the shaft in in place in the upper arm BEFORE pressing the new bushings in. Also, the nuts on the ends of the shaft need to be torqued with the weight of the car on the suspension, not with it in the air.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:40 PM
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If you attempt this with the average "enthusiast" tools, you will probably take a road trip to the nearest auto machine shop and gladly pay their labor price.
Controll arms can be a *****. Even with the corect fixtures and a press. Plus they bend/crush very easy.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
If you attempt this with the average "enthusiast" tools, you will probably take a road trip to the nearest auto machine shop and gladly pay their labor price.
Controll arms can be a *****. Even with the corect fixtures and a press. Plus they bend/crush very easy.
Sorry, but I have to disagree. The first time I did this, I was still in high school. My only tools then were a propane torch, a bench vise, a sledge hammer, and a selection of pieces of pipe (though now I have a much better equipped shop). It was time consuming but I had no issues. The "crushing" problem is easily solved by properly selecting the support points and by using a block between the two sides on the lower control arms (and he's asking about the uppers in this thread, not the lowers). The only way to learn is to try it, but in 40 years of rebuilding GM front ends, I've NEVER damaged any control arms nor had to resort to an outside shop.

Your money, your call.
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano View Post
Sorry, but I have to disagree. The first time I did this, I was still in high school. My only tools then were a propane torch, a bench vise, a sledge hammer, and a selection of pieces of pipe (though now I have a much better equipped shop). It was time consuming but I had no issues. The "crushing" problem is easily solved by properly selecting the support points and by using a block between the two sides on the lower control arms (and he's asking about the uppers in this thread, not the lowers). The only way to learn is to try it, but in 40 years of rebuilding GM front ends, I've NEVER damaged any control arms nor had to resort to an outside shop.

Your money, your call.

Joe you are the exception to the rule..You evidently know what you are doing.. I get customer mangled A frames regularly
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:30 PM
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i know joe and you only wash your cape on tue.
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:30 PM
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i know joe and you only wash your cape on tue.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:05 PM
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Got the remaining top a-arm bushings out with a propane torch.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:55 PM
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Got the new top A-arms bushings installed. Job done!
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:10 PM
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It just takes the want to get it done..
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:53 PM
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I've done a bunch of these, and I used to burn them out, but I find it's faster, and not near as much mess to drill holes in the rubber with a 3/8" drill, until it releases it's grip on the steel shell. Then yo can collapse the shell with a dull chisel, and it will fall out.
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:10 PM
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I just use a hammer, big punch and a few deep sockets and a vise. Never used a torch on one ever. Never an issue either.
I have used a burp gun too.
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Last edited by LATECH; 03-12-2014 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:17 PM
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control arm bushings

ball joint press works good also
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alkey View Post
ball joint press works good also
Maybe on the lower A arm bushings. How do you get around the A Arm shaft with the ball joint press on the upper A Arms?
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:07 PM
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30 seconds each to remove. never hurt one using this tool, but have seen several a arms beat to dog snot by using "other" methods
Air Impact Hammer Kit
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