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Old 10-12-2013, 02:16 PM
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ARP head bolts

Removed heads and all bolts are ARP. It looks like a blue RTV was used on lower portion of bolts and anti sieze up top.
I want to know the proper sealant and torque lube to use and how to apply and the proper torque setting for these bolts.

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Old 10-12-2013, 03:55 PM
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They were done correctly....RTV silicone sealer, #2 Permatex, or Teflon pipe thread sealer on threads, and motor oil or anti-sieze under washer and bolt head.

Assuming this is the SBC you are working on....
Torque to factory spec (70 ft.lbs.) in the proper sequence, in at least 3 steps - i.e. 25 ft.lbs. then 50 ft.lbs. then final at 70 ft.lbs.

Last edited by ericnova72; 10-12-2013 at 04:23 PM. Reason: wrong torque spec in one section of post
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Old 10-12-2013, 04:08 PM
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Cool, thanks
Yes it is the sbc
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Old 10-12-2013, 05:59 PM
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Here's the torque pattern.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:10 AM
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No, RTV is not correct. It's too thick and will give false torque readings, as well as clog things up when it goes to the wrong places.

The Teflon pipe "dope" is okay. We use Permatex "Aviation" for this, on the threads ONLY. Unless the heads have been drastically ported exposing the bolt holes between intake runners, no need for sealer on the top. A drop of engine oil is all that's called for.

When it comes to sealer, if a little is enough, A LITTLE IS ENOUGH! (a LOT is NOT better)

FWIW

Jim
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body View Post
When it comes to sealer, if a little is enough, A LITTLE IS ENOUGH! (a LOT is NOT better) Jim
Remember the old hot rodder's axiom Jim,
"If some is good, then more is better and too much is just right."
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddart View Post
Removed heads and all bolts are ARP. It looks like a blue RTV was used on lower portion of bolts and anti sieze up top.
I want to know the proper sealant and torque lube to use and how to apply and the proper torque setting for these bolts.
ARP 'likes' for you to use their thread lube and their torque specs. The specs sometimes vary from stock, so it is always advisable to check against the part number of the bolts you're using to be sure. In your case, 70 ft/lbs is correct- when using ARP lube. If using motor oil, the torque to get the same amount of preload would be greater because the ARP lube works better than motor oil for reducing friction. More here.

ARP web site
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
ARP 'likes' for you to use their thread lube and their torque specs. The specs sometimes vary from stock, so it is always advisable to check against the part number of the bolts you're using to be sure. In your case, 70 ft/lbs is correct- when using ARP lube. If using motor oil, the torque to get the same amount of preload would be greater because the ARP lube works better than motor oil for reducing friction. More here.

ARP web site
A big X2, this is a place where if you mess this up you can suck the threads right out of the block. So follow ARP's directions, carefully!

Bogie
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:14 PM
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I was going to use the ptfe on the threads and vaseline under the head bolt/washer. I have a builders book recommending vaseline. Thoughts?
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:12 PM
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Are these aluminum heads? I thought ARP only supplied washers with bolts for aluminum head installs?
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddart View Post
I was going to use the ptfe on the threads and vaseline under the head bolt/washer. I have a builders book recommending vaseline. Thoughts?
Vaseline is not a high pressure lubricant- which is what you want under a washer that's seeing a big clamping load as well as a high frictional load. Moly-based lube is best used in these applications.
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:37 PM
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They are aluminum heads.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by maddart View Post
I was going to use the ptfe on the threads and vaseline under the head bolt/washer. I have a builders book recommending vaseline. Thoughts?
Let's go back over this, if you're going to use ARP studs or fasteners use their proprietary sealants and lubricants. This web site is rife with guys that pulled the threads right out of the castings doing otherwise.

Between the bolt head or nut when clamping down on aluminum there goes hardened, ground washer, this is not something you'll find at the home improvement center near you. This washer prevents the rotation forces of the bolt head or nut from digging into the aluminum which will happen without the washer reguardless of the lubricant used. The gouging of the aluminum not only damages the part but also provides a false torque reading. Plus the damage doesn't stop with the installation, the aluminum continues to plastically deform under the fastener from the clamping force among others allowing said fastener(s) to loosen over time. Some of the others are; the aluminum has a greater amount of expansion and contraction with changes in temperature than iron or steel so it is constantly working into the fastener when it heats up and falls loose when it cools, this takes chunks of aluminum out from under the fastener head as well. The hard, ground washer helps reduce this as well as the other functions it performs buy placing the fastener load over a wider support area.

Get on ARP's web site and study what they say, call 'em, what-ever; but follow their instructions not the crap you get from friends, the corner shop, or on the web, it'll save you basket load of trouble down the road.

Always remember the "cheap way out....leads back in!"

Vasolene, well you know what that's good for, use it there, not on fasteners.

Bogie
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