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Old 04-08-2004, 07:21 AM
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ARP head bolts.

Getting ready to reinstall my aluminium heads on my 383 and I don't have all the infos. about doing this right. Will be using new 170,000 PSI black oxyde ARP bolts. Cannot get their own moly or sealer . All the bolts end up in coolant in the 350 aen't they? So I have to use a sealer not oil or moly (on the threads) right? I intend to use Permatex liquid teflon is this good?

I'm confused about ARP recommendations of torquing/loosening 5 times a new bolt before final torquing!! How long should a bolt stay fully torqued before loosening and how long should it stay loose between the cycles..any important matter here? And will not the teflon expected effect be annulated by the torquing/slackening cycles?? It looks to me that the teflon once dried a bit will just loose its capacity if loosened/retorqued?

Finally my head manufacturer (brodix) recommends 70 pounds torque...ARP says for a 7/16 stud with oil 73 pounds and 56 with their moly...they don't give a specific figure for bolts with should be different..

what you think,

thank you,Ronald.

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Old 04-08-2004, 09:19 AM
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Those torque figures you listed are for studs? But you're using bolts, right?

I've never heard of torquing and retorquing the bolts. I could be wrong though. Just torque them once in a circular pattern, and re-torque them after putting the engine through one or two heat cycles.

Good luck

the blonde weasel
san diego, CA
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Old 04-08-2004, 10:27 AM
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Get the ARP studs.
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:28 AM
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We had the same confusion on the torque specs on our engines too.

My suggestion is to call ARP and ask them directly.
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:45 AM Moderator

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On the sbc arp recommends 70 ft/lb for there bolts. Since brodix gave you the same number i would think thats where you want to go with them.I am not sure i ever saw that head bolts need cycled in the arp catalog. I know the rod bolts have a procedure for that,,,but thats another topic!!!!! If you are using a permatorque head gasket pull them up to 70 ft/lbs in increments and forget it,,, your done.....

Yes you will need to put sealer on all the head bolts for the reason you stated.On the sealer i use the liquid teflon. One thing i have found is that the bolts need to be free of all oil and dry. Same with the holes in the block. Any oil on either the male or female part will cause the teflon sealer to " roll" off of the threads. I use brakecleen and then blow the part off to make sure they are dry. I also use a small screwdriver and work some of the sealer into the female threads.

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