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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2005, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumpstick
Sorry dood...


Thanks Bob...

You basicly answered a question of mine about bolts for SBC`s... I am still wondering a little are the boron`s for SBC`s used in the "pink" rods or...? thanks...
All the BIGGIES say that the pink rods are no better than the plain-jane ones. Check it out and you will find out that I am correct in this...

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2005, 05:22 PM
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What exactly distinguishes a pink rod from any other factory rod? I hear people talk about them from time to time but I have no idea why people say they're supposed to be better than others?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2005, 06:44 PM
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xntrik... I was referring to the boron rod bolts not the rod itself... But also its real strange then for GM to put the "pink" rods ONLY in their high performance apps (the original LT1`s and such...) which came with pink paint on them which gives them the name... Also they were given the better quality rod bolts which is what this topic is about...

Next I suppose your going to tell us the "dimple" rods that came in BBC`s are the same as the reg rods...? These came in 4 types also (3/8ths bolts both bushed and full floating & 7/16ths bushed and full floating)
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Bumpstick
xntrik... I was referring to the boron rod bolts not the rod itself... But also its real strange then for GM to put the "pink" rods ONLY in their high performance apps (the original LT1`s and such...) which came with pink paint on them which gives them the name... Also they were given the better quality rod bolts which is what this topic is about...

Next I suppose your going to tell us the "dimple" rods that came in BBC`s are the same as the reg rods...? These came in 4 types also (3/8ths bolts both bushed and full floating & 7/16ths bushed and full floating)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Nope not going to tell you that. Don't know about BBC dimples.

Yes they're better bolts, but the big name engine builders say that there is very little difference in the pink rods themselves from the regular rods, and suggest that any hipo set up get aftermarket rods. (call some of them and ask them)
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 11:03 AM
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xntrik... 1st off I`m not going to call "them" to bother or ask... The other point is of course an aftermarket rod will be better... But also if you look at a "pink rod" the other main difference is its a wide beam rod as opposed to the narrow beam of a reg rod... While the "biggies" say no real difference I do know the "pink rods" were X-rayed and magnafluxed from the factory while the reg rods were not... Also with the better bolts as stated this would make them better from the factory... Also they were bushed while the reg rods were not... While the debate over which is better it depends...? From the factory the "pink rod" was setup for performace while the reg std. rods were not so more money will have to be spent to achive the same level of performance (better bolts, either bushing or honing the small end for full floating & X-raying + magnafluxing) That my friend is the difference $$$...
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpstick
xntrik... 1st off I`m not going to call "them" to bother or ask... The other point is of course an aftermarket rod will be better... But also if you look at a "pink rod" the other main difference is its a wide beam rod as opposed to the narrow beam of a reg rod... While the "biggies" say no real difference I do know the "pink rods" were X-rayed and magnafluxed from the factory while the reg rods were not... Also with the better bolts as stated this would make them better from the factory... Also they were bushed while the reg rods were not... While the debate over which is better it depends...? From the factory the "pink rod" was setup for performace while the reg std. rods were not so more money will have to be spent to achive the same level of performance (better bolts, either bushing or honing the small end for full floating & X-raying + magnafluxing) That my friend is the difference $$$...
Absolutely you are correct Bumpstick..

But consider this.... How many people build a performance engine using "used" rods that are NOT reconditioned? By the time they resize them, magnaflux them, and put in ARP bolts..... even doing this to pink rods..... that is a goodly amount that could be spent toward "real rods". (wink)

By the way.... I have talked to several of the big guys, and they have been extremely friendly and helpful. They are have never been secretive or allusive to any of my questions, and usually tell me to come by and visit when I am in town. If someone doesn't have time to talk, he'll tell you so.. I have talked to several of the biggie builders we see in magazines, and you might be suprised how down home nice guys that they actually are. Not trying to brag, I just want everyone to know that most of them are really just everyday guys like us, they just have a different job and live somewhere else.
Thanks for your reply.

please check out www.readershotrods.com drag cars/georges
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2005, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
But consider this.... How many people build a performance engine using "used" rods that are NOT reconditioned? By the time they resize them, magnaflux them, and put in ARP bolts..... even doing this to pink rods..... that is a goodly amount that could be spent toward "real rods".

Well... Yes you got me there... Most dont realize the cost now of aftermarket rods Vs. reconditioning used rods... For most street/strip engines a good set of Eagle SIR`s that come with good bolts would be a perfect choice... I`ve seen them go brand new for $189.00 (or less) so I have to agree it makes no sense to waste time or money on either... Very good sense...
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by baddbob View Post
GM sells Boron rod bolts for smallblocks as well as bigblocks, the cost is comparable to ARP. Definately replace the rodbolts IMO. When you replace the bolts the rods will sometimes need to be resized-I say sometimes because I've changed a few sets that didn't need to be resized according to my dial bore guage. Get the torque right during assembly, I usually torque each fastener once then break loosed, torque again then break it loose, then torque it for the third and final time.- This assures the bolt is properly seated and burnishes the threads to make sure the torque readings are accurated.
Although this thread is old maybe someone still reads it like me, I thought the torque on the ARP bolts is higher than the stock bolts which is why you have to resize the rod big end since there is a likelyhood of the big end distorting differently under the greater torque from the ARP bolts. Its this extra clamping pressure that helps hold the rod together better under load.
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