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Old 03-08-2010, 09:00 PM
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Is this assembley lube good for anything?

I've had this NAPA assembly lube setting on my shelf for about a year ,Somebody gave it to me brand new tube. I'm about to put my 355ci together and before I go out and blow some cash on assembley lube will this NAPA lube be good for anything? The guy I got it from claimed this is what he put on his cams when he installed them.


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Old 03-08-2010, 09:10 PM
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DO NOT USE THAT ON THE CAM! That is bearing assembly lube only, and can be used for packing the oil pump cavity if you so wish. On the cam, use a good moly cam lube, or a high quality moly grease. If you use the Lubriplate, you'll wipe a lobe before you are done break-in.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:20 PM
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That lube is GREAT for marine stuff. I'll pay shipping if you want to send it to me
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:23 PM
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You won't find that crap anywhere near anything I put together, except bicycles, or lawn mower wheel or linkage wear points. NEVER anywhere inside an engine. None of them White/Beige lithium type lubes.

Crane moly paste on flat tappet cams and lifters, stock type rocker pivots, pushrod tips and valve tips. Red bearing and assembly lube sold by a bunch of brands, looks just like blood, on everything else.

I can still proudly say that I have never had a flat tappet cam that I have installed fail, knock on wood. Seen plenty of other people's failures and stock 70's SBC failures tho'.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:40 PM
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When I put my 468 bbc together a couple of years ago,my buddy Mark,a class A mechanic & gearhead & shop owner,wouldnt let me use the tube of Lubriplate that I had.He insisted that I use Clevite red bearing guard assembly lube.Also,you dont need to pack your oil pump with anything,just do a prelube.If this is a flat tappet build,get yourself some EOS from your local GM dealer,pour some over the cam & lifters,& pour the rest in the crankcase.
Guy
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:07 PM
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Yea, that stuff is crap...only rebuilt dozens of motors with it including covering the camshaft lobes with it.

Don't believe everything you read.

Honestly you guys, lithium grease has been used since before WWII for building engines, moly is great don't get me wrong but wiped cam lobes because you used the wrong grease?

C'mon.

The grease is only there to give some lubrication until oil can hit it at break-in rpm at which point it will melt off and end up in the oil pan...which takes all of 10 seconds at 3000 rpm.

Sheesh every aircraft engine built to date uses lithium grease because you can't use moly in them and there is no splash lubrication in a 985-1340ci radial engine! Why no moly you ask? Because it embeds into sintered bronze bushings plugging up the pores causing lubrication failure. As a matter of fact moly grease was forbidden to be used from factory Ford certified engine rebuilders because the commercially available moly particles that come in most greases are so large they plug the oil filter.

Oh, and I pack the oil pump with vasoline too because it dissolves into the oil once it gets hot, another "been in use for 50 years" trick that works.

Where does this stuff come from? Magazine advertisers selling fancy overpriced greases? Whats the world coming too.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:03 AM
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FWIW A lot of top engine builders swear by lubriplate, and it has worked for me with no issues.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:09 AM
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It's a staple item in many- if not MOST shops. I know we've kept it around for the last 45-plus years.

That said, I will not use it to break in a cam. Not that it doesn't work- but that I believe a moly lube offers better protection w/higher-than-OEM spring pressures.

And it WILL clog a filter (moly, that is)!
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:55 PM
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One of the builders in my shop uses lubriplate exclusively and it hasn't caused any warranty issues.

I personally use red syrup on pushrod tips, rocker arms, and valve tips. If I'm going to fire a flat-cam engine right away I'll use syrup on the lobes, otherwise I use paste since it sticks around a while and doesn't drip off. I never ever use any kind of break-in lube on bearings or the oil pump. I prime the pump before firing anyway. If you can't get oil up to the pump while priming it, its not from a lack of vaseline, its because there is something wrong with the pump.

I also don't put assembly lube on the bearings because its not needed and just gets in the way. The whole point is to have pressurized liquid oil in the bearings. If you have sticky moly in the way, it takes longer for the oil to create the film required to suspend the journals. And... it washes away in a few seconds anyway. I always assemble bearings with plain oil.

My philosophy is to use moly syrup or paste only where required. Any excess just plugs up the filter. Flat cam lobes get moly, direct contact points like pushrod tips, rockers, and fuel pump lobes get moly, but cam bearings, main and rod bearings, and the rest of the engine get oil only when I build.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:54 PM
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Covered and installed my cam in the lupricate. Only place I was worried about was that the cam bearings not getting enough lube.
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chlsnk
Covered and installed my cam in the lupricate. Only place I was worried about was that the cam bearings not getting enough lube.
Cam journals and bearings only need motor oil or bearing assembly lube.
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:16 PM
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OK guys, educate me.

Is the #105 Lubriplate different than the common available whiteish/tannish/yellowish "white lithium" stuff sold in every hardware store/mart as a general homeowner lubricating grease, in 2.4-4 oz tubes, and also available in aerosol spray cans??

Or is it a different composition?? I have seen some different #'s Lubriplate used in Tool & Die work, but it was a dark grey/dark green extreme pressure type, can't remember the number but know what it looks like on my finger. This I would have no problem with using in an engine, is this what you Lubriplate users are using??

The cheap white-ish home handyman stuff is the stuff I'm saying is no good.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:02 PM
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While I have and do use Lubriplate 105 for assembly, I won't use it on the cam lobes. I rarely read magazines, and when I do I believe about 15% of what is printed. IMHO, the other 85% is advertising. That being said, I was taught by a well respected builder and technician that Lubriplate is a no-no on cam lobes for the reason that is is not an EP lube, and is not sticky enough to retain on the lobes during a build, which can lead to lack of initial lube on first fire. After seeing a cam fail where the only difference from failed cam to successful cam was lube change during assembly, it was enough proof for me. Others can and will have different opinions than mine, but all opinions (including mine) are worth exactly what you paid for them.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:00 AM
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From the 10 oz tube:

Lubriplate No. 105 The Original White Grease
Petroleum Oil (Grease)

Lubriplate No. 105 is a white, waterproof, grease-type lubricant, possessing exceptional anti-seize properties. Recommended extensively for motor rebuilding. When first starting up a rebuilt internal combustion engine Lubriplate No. 105 will not rip, ravel(1), run down, wash off, dry out or freeze! Does not clog oil pumps.

Recommended For The Following Applications:
Press fittings, shackle pin and spring assemblies, door hinges, striker points and hinges on trunk and hood, distributor cams, battery terminals, anti-seize applications, general rust proofing of parts and tools.

Also Excellent For:
Remote control gear shift mechanisms, radio switches, headlight dimmer switches, windshield wipers, radio antennas, clutch release bearing hubs, automatic transmission converter pilot bearing, manually operated steering gear mechanism.

(1) ravel: Break up; crumble.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:09 AM
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I guess I am wrongly associating the Lubriplate #105 "Original White Grease" and "white lithium grease" together??
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