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Old 12-04-2003, 05:47 PM
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Assembly and Break-In Procedure

I have read all of the threads regarding assembly and break in but am still confused.

When i assemble the motor should i put assembly lube in the cylinders?

After initial start-up, vary engine speeds from 1500-2500 rpms for 30 minutes?

Change oil and filter?
Then what?

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Old 12-04-2003, 05:53 PM
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I don't put lube on the cyl's, just some light oil.

If they are new rings as well, take it for a spin and vary the speeds from 30-50mph to set the rings. The thing you don't want to do is drive at constant speed for a period of time. After that, you should be good to go!
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Old 12-04-2003, 05:55 PM
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I don't put any assembly lube in the cylinders. I dip my pistons in oil before I install them. Before start up I prime the oiling system and spin the engine by hand a few times.
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Old 12-04-2003, 05:58 PM
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So i break the cam in, then take it for a drive around the block for 30mins to and hour carrying in the rpm's . Then could i switch to synthetic? Since the rings have been seated already? And do i dip the pistons in oil with the rings installed?
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Old 12-04-2003, 07:42 PM
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Does a synthetic help that much?
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Old 12-04-2003, 07:49 PM
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Do not use synthetic too fast. Use the low budget oil fo a few thousand miles ..then put in the synthetic for life.

My cylinder bores I was told to lightly lube with tranny fluid...I did..it worked.

I loaded up on assembly lube...it can`t hurt!

Change the oil and filter a few times. Be safe,it`s cheap.
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:09 PM
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What i have always done is lube the cylinder walls up well with new motor oil and install the pistons. then prime the oil pump before initial startup. Then i bring the veichle up to 30mph and hold it at full throttle until i reach 50mph. I do this 12-14 times to seat the rings. After that procedure is finished i then drive the veichle gently for the next 500 miles, change the oil and filter and then drive normal up until 2000 miles ( do not rod it but do not baby it either) after i reach 2000 i change oil and filter again and consider fully broken in.
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:27 PM
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assembly lube

What Ive always done is liberally coat everything with white lithium grease when I assemble the engine. One thing NOT to forget is to take your hydraulic lifters ( if they are being used), drop them into a can of new oil and using a push rod, pump the plunger several times to be sure the lifter has oil in it. After assembly, and having put the correct amount of engine oil of my choice in for breakin (HD 30w), I prime the entire engine with oil.
Being a Ford man, I take an old oil pump shaft and weld it into a 1/4 inch drive deep well socket of the required size, and turn it with a speed wrench for about 2-3 minutes. Thus gaurenteeing sufficient oil in all the passages. I also fill the filter before I intsall it, as I do with all oil changes.
Those of you that harbor good feelings for other brands of engines know how the oiling system works and can do the same accordingly. I know that a lot of chevy guys will modify and old distributor to use in similar manner after removing the cam gear.
Upon starting and smoothing out the engine, I will generally run it for half an hour at varied RPM's, ranging from 2000 -3500. Keeping the engine at the higher RPM's for only a minute or two, but the bulk of the running time will be around 2000.
If this is a street car, I will then take it out for a drive around the area and even run it up through the gears a few times to my peak RPM. Go home and drain the oil and put in the oil of choice that I prefer (Valvoline 10-30 usually).
This has always worked well for me, whether for street engines, or racing engines.
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Old 12-04-2003, 11:17 PM
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I build engines and I use a good high quality oil for break-in. Usually the type I will be running for the life of the engine. I have lost too many cams(2) using cheap re-refined non- det. oil.

I only use the assembly lube for the camshaft, lifters, rocker arms, push rods, bearings, etc. Use oil on the bolts unless they require sealant(head bolts) or loctite, which I use on the cam gear bolts. I don't use assembly lube on the cylinder walls, pistons or the rings.....oil works best here.
Prime the oil pump with a small amount of oil prior to installing it. Put some oil in the top hole and turn the pump shaft both directions to coat the internal gears. You won't need much. A couple of squirts from an oil can will do. This will help seal the gears in the pump and it will prime quickly when you get ready to prime the engine just prior to starting it. As for break-in, start the engine and make adjustments for smooth running and you must not idle the engine below 2000 rpm during break-in period for at least 20-30 minutes. The reason for this is that the engine doesn't oil the cam and lifters well at low rpm and the lifters will not seat properly. For the piston rings you can vary the rpm now and then to ensure proper ring break in while breaking in the cam. If something is wrong with the engine(a leak,noise, etc.), you might have to turn the idle down quickly before you it shut off. When you restart it make sure the idle returns to above 2000 rpm to finish the cam break-in. After 20-30 minutes running I set the carb idle mixture and timing quickly. Do final checks for leaks again. I already checked for leaks right after I first started it. Then I drive it, trying not to idle it much at all. Raise the rpm in neutral at the stop light if necessary to drive where traffic lights are. It's best not to drive in traffic. I find some back streets and cruise varying the rpm. I give it a few hundred miles before I hammer it. That doesn't mean I baby it, I just want parts to seat in properly before I load the engine. I change the oil filter at 500 miles and the oil and filter at 1000 miles and then every 2000 miles after that. I wouldn't use the synthetic oil right away. Give it until 3000 miles when you should due your next oil and filter change.

Last edited by hasanybody1; 12-04-2003 at 11:34 PM.
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