Assembly Lube - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2008, 06:02 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Napa , Ca.
Posts: 296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Assembly Lube

Hey , Guys I got my GMPP crate motor the other day and got it on the stand today , it's a 290 HP 350 (long block with tins). I was looking at it and it looked kind of dry , when iv'e put motors together or changed cams in engines I give everything a good coating of assembly lube. I looked through holes in the lifter galley where you can see the cam lobes and they are dry but there is signs of assembly lube near the lifter bores like maybe they put a dab on the bottom of the lifters. Think I should loosen the rockers and pull the push rods and lifters and lube it up or just pre oil it and fire it up ?
Gene

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2008, 06:09 PM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,189
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
Hey , Guys I got my GMPP crate motor the other day and got it on the stand today , it's a 290 HP 350 (long block with tins). I was looking at it and it looked kind of dry , when iv'e put motors together or changed cams in engines I give everything a good coating of assembly lube. I looked through holes in the lifter galley where you can see the cam lobes and they are dry but there is signs of assembly lube near the lifter bores like maybe they put a dab on the bottom of the lifters. Think I should loosen the rockers and pull the push rods and lifters and lube it up or just pre oil it and fire it up ?
Gene
I would just pre- oil it good with a electric drill and if all the rockers are oiling good then fire it up.Then run the engine at 2000 rpm for 15-20 minutes to break in the cam. If you have a flat tappet cam you need to use either a zinc additive or a oil that has zinc in it for proper cam break in.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2008, 07:27 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 13,082
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 777
Thanked 1,057 Times in 879 Posts
Crane Cams #99003-1 Super Lube break-in concentrate, 8 oz. Add it to the oil before firing the motor. Contains zinc dithiophosphate.

If you use just a plain shaft to prime the motor, you won't get oil to the passenger side top end. Use a tool like this or an old distributor housing with the shaft in it (less the gear) so you close off the oil galley to give you pressure on the passenger bank.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=25140

Have everything ready to go before you fire it. Fully charged battery, coolant, fuel, ignition timing, etc. If using a carb, prime the fuel bowl to full. If it's cold, make sure you have an operational choke. THE CAM AND LIFTERS WILL NOT TOLERATE YOU GRINDING ON THE STARTER FOR VERY LONG. They are lubed primarily by splash off the crank and if the motor isn't spinning fast enough to throw oil off the crank, you're gonna be in deep doo-doo. The motor must fire immediately and go to 2,000 to 2,500 rpm's and stay at that speed for the 20 minute break-in period. Under no circumstances should you idle the motor. If something goes wrong...leak, etc., shut the motor off and fix it before continuing.

A 3/8" drill motor will work fine for priming. It'll spin pretty freely until the pump begins to pressurize the system, then the rpm's will pull down and you know you're pumpin' oil. If the drill motor rpm's don't pull down after a few seconds, then you know there is a plug missing in an oil galley or something else if wrong. Don't attempt to fire the motor until you know you've got oil pressure.

Last edited by techinspector1; 02-05-2008 at 07:57 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2008, 02:18 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 357
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I can't believe whoever you bought the engine from didn't give you specific instructions on pre-lube and/or break-in. This is a vital process, and can be the difference between a good reliable engine and a piece of crap. My younger brother ruined a crank on a fresh engine once, by firing it up before it was properly lubed.

Call whoever you bought it from.....it's their warranty to honor or not if you don't do it right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2008, 05:06 PM
boatbob2
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: north florida
Age: 76
Posts: 1,374
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
pre lube......

hi,since the engine is already together,i would pull the valve covers and lube everything with STP,(NO,i dont own the company) and then pour STP in the lifter valley,to get lube to the cam. then pre lube using an old dist shaft,and an electric drill (as everyone else above has suggested)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2008, 09:16 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Napa , Ca.
Posts: 296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
OK Lets back up the truck a little , I know how to prelube a engine before starting. my question was when i've put engines together in the past I have really slathered on the assembely lube. This crate motor I have seems to be a little light on the gumyackie you would normally spread all everything if you were putting it together yourself.
My question was should I take it apart and slather on the assembely lube or just preoil it good and go for it, and do the cam at 2 grand for 20/30 minutes.
Gene
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2008, 09:26 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Napa , Ca.
Posts: 296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The first engines I put together some 40 years ago we used STP on the bearings and everything , and the rings never seated , when we asked what's up we were told never to use STP to put an engine together.
Gene
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2008, 05:24 AM
streetrodderbn's Avatar
Certifiable Streetrodder
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: n.e. ohio
Posts: 369
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Is this a g.m. crate engine? or a rebuild? If it's a g.m. new crate engine, just go to the dealer,get a bottle of g.m. "e.o.s." and prime like any initial fire-up, this is the recommended procedure by the general for their crate engines, run for 30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm varying the speed slightly in that range, dump the oil and filter, and you are fine! G.M. will stand behind an engine broke in this way!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2008, 09:14 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Napa , Ca.
Posts: 296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Yes it's a GM crate motor , I've used the EOS before and was thinking of using it again on this engine.
Gene
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2008, 02:27 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 13,082
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 777
Thanked 1,057 Times in 879 Posts
GM has eliminated EOS from their product lineup. Use something like Crane 99003-1 Break-in Concentrate.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...Number=99003-1
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2008, 02:02 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: chillicothe oh
Age: 47
Posts: 1,445
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My opinion is(only my opinion) if I had a situation where the intake was not yet installed, and I had any doubts the lifters would come out and be covered in assembly lube.It won't take long and it will give you a chance to make sure the valves are properly adjusted.Especially with the flat tappet failures being reported nowadays.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2008, 06:58 PM
pepi's Avatar
How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
Last wiki edit: Determining top dead center
Last journal entry: Quicky frame dolly
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Georgia ... USA
Posts: 1,835
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dalesy
I can't believe whoever you bought the engine from didn't give you specific instructions on pre-lube and/or break-in. This is a vital process, and can be the difference between a good reliable engine and a piece of crap. My younger brother ruined a crank on a fresh engine once, by firing it up before it was properly lubed.

Call whoever you bought it from.....it's their warranty to honor or not if you don't do it right.
I agree with this totally .......... most engine builders will be happy to clue you in.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2008, 04:50 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Napa , Ca.
Posts: 296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
I agree with this totally .......... most engine builders will be happy to clue you in.
Dalesy , Pepi
Go back to the top , thats where my original thread is and read it again.
GMPP ,thats General Motors Performance Parts (crate motor)
And it does come with start up instructions , Pre oil before startup and break in cam at 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 to 30 minutes , got it , been there , done that many times.
Gene
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Assembly lube...where to apply it ? Calderone Engine 18 07-04-2014 06:27 AM
Loctite or assembly lube? staleg Engine 2 08-14-2006 05:08 PM
Assembly lube or loctite? staleg Engine 3 08-14-2006 08:19 AM
Engine Assembly Lube ? bowtieorbust Engine 11 11-09-2004 11:24 AM
Assembly Lube/ White Grease?? camaroman7d Engine 5 01-12-2004 02:54 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.