re: Assembly Lube on Cylinder walls
Product Line: Summit Piston Rings
Part Type: Piston Rings
Part Number: SUM-134-CM553240
Bore (in): 4.040 in.
Bore (mm): 102.616mm
Top Ring Included: Yes
Top Ring Thickness: 1/16 in.
Second Ring Included: Yes
Second Ring Thickness: 1/16 in.
Oil Ring Included: Yes
Oil Ring Thickness: 3/16 in.
Oil Ring Tension: Standard
File Fit: No
Top Ring Material: Cast iron
Top Ring Facing Material: Plasma-moly
Second Ring Material: Cast iron
Second Ring Facing Material: Cast iron
Oil Ring Material: Stainless steel
Quantity: Sold as a set.
Piston Rings, Plasma-Moly, 4.040 in. Bore, 1/16 in., 1/16 in., 3/16 in. Thickness, 8-Cylinder, Set of 8
If you mean by cleaned if i got it clean enough i think i did, i used solvent to degrease it thoroughly and then used soap and water, i spent most of a day cleaning it and tapping holes. The cross hatch looked pretty good to me and even throughout all the cylinders,,,, if i could figure out how to put in a pic i would..probably wouldn't show much anyway, the pistons are installed. i would hope if the machine noticed a problem they would have told me,,,after all they do this daily,,,,maybe they just wanted my money??
Your break-in oil consumption is not unusual.
Even my brand new 2008 Dodge Van took 10 000 kms (6000 miles) before it stopped using oil, now its fine. It was using 1 litre per 1000kms (600 miles) and it is a 3.3 litre engine so your usage rate is right there when compared to it at 5.7 litres displacement.
I would recommend using a low viscosity oil for the remainder of the break-in as it seems to speed things along and cool better, I use 5W-20.
I would say relax and go with the flow, keep up with regular oil changes and monitor the progress. Your assembly lube coating likely did nothing but lightly carbon up the top ring for the first few minutes of running.
I also use 2 stroke mix oil for lubing the top end of the motors I build, it seems to stick better and not vanish after a few weeks of sitting on the stand.
Its a good trick.
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