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Old 12-30-2011, 08:04 AM
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attaching a fiberglass rollpan?

I need to attach a fiberglass rear roll pan to a fiberglass 32' Ford Hiboy Roadster. I'm trying to decide if I should use the tried and true fiberglass method or if I could use some epoxy adhesive to bond the two pieces together? I like the simple idea of the adhesive but want to be absolutely sure there wont be any potential for the seam cracking down the road. I also don't want a bulge of fiberglass build up where the seam would be.

In either case I plan to first attach the panel with nuts & bolts then finishing up with some body filler.

Adhesive: Is this totally out of the question or is it a good solution? I know people use it for attaching metal panels but not sure if their seams would ever be visible as they would be in this case.

Fiberglass: To avoid creating a buildup / bulge of material, would I need to first grind down the edge of the body and the edge of the panel before applying the fiberglass? That sounds like a big mess coming my way. How many layers of fiberglass would be enough for the bond? Would one be too few?

Thanks,
Jim

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Old 01-01-2012, 09:26 AM
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What? No one? Well with no guidance from the pros (and no patience to wait) here's my plan. I think I'm going to rough up the mating surfaces with some 40-50 grit, then bolt the two pieces together using some sort of epoxy to help bond them. Next, I think I'll grind down the edges (~ 2" up on each piece) where the two pieces meet and then use some fiberglass mat & resin.

It's my first time dealing with fiberglass so I'm probably a little unsure of myself. I was looking for some experienced guidance. "hey don't forget to do this..." or "do this and you will get much better results..."

Please shoot me a reply if anyone thinks I'm heading down the wrong road. Otherwise, I'll post some pics when the carnage is done.

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:31 AM
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What if it ever has to come back apart?

I would stick with the bolts
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454ChevelleMalibu
What? No one? Well with no guidance from the pros (and no patience to wait) here's my plan. I think I'm going to rough up the mating surfaces with some 40-50 grit, then bolt the two pieces together using some sort of epoxy to help bond them. Next, I think I'll grind down the edges (~ 2" up on each piece) where the two pieces meet and then use some fiberglass mat & resin.

It's my first time dealing with fiberglass so I'm probably a little unsure of myself. I was looking for some experienced guidance. "hey don't forget to do this..." or "do this and you will get much better results..."

Please shoot me a reply if anyone thinks I'm heading down the wrong road. Otherwise, I'll post some pics when the carnage is done.

Thanks,
Jim

Jim.. It would help us to see some pictures of what your working with...

If your going to glass it on.. Make sure you can still get the car off the frame if you need too...

I would grind down the edge of the roll pan to a knife edge.... I would grind the body where this will be fitting without going through it... You will be adding glass back, Don't worry....

Put the pan into place with a couple of screw's,,You will be taking these out later,,So don't glass over them,,, Only glass between them for now.. Ruff everything up with some 36 grit sand paper,,, Wipe everything with acetone, Don't cut you glass,, Tear it,, Or you will see a line later...

mix your glass and start glassing,,, You want to have at least 3 layers of glass..After you glass between the screw's,, Let it dry,, Then pull the screws out... Sand what you have done so far.. Wipe it again and finish glassing where the screws was..

Make sure to let it go over where you last glassed... You want everything where when it's all done you can go back in grind down without taking to much off to do your body work... Hope this helps you out..

You may not have gotten any answers because everyone is still sleeping from last night..
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Old 01-01-2012, 01:25 PM
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If your rolled pan has flanges, I would just bolt in place with some stainless fasteners. It will save you many hours of work - but if you are determined to 'glass in place, New Interiors has the right method

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Old 01-01-2012, 01:59 PM
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Hi Guys. Happy New Year!
Thanks for the feedback. Here are a few photos of what I'm working with.

I never considered leaving the seam line and just bolting it together. Would this be a little more of a traditional look or would it look kind of like a short cut? I've seen so many cars with the roll pan blended in that I assumed it was the only way to go. Hmmm?

I suppose with the hidden door hinges and other body lines filled in I should probably stick with the filled in seam plan. What do ya think? I know I should build it my way, and I will, but I do value others ideas and opinions. It's hard enough to stick to a theme and I dont want something like this to stick out like a sore thumb.

Thanks again,
Jim
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:49 AM
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I used pop rivits with back up washers on the inside top when I did the same thing on my 27 T roadster. Clamp it where you want it and drill all your holes. Rough up the mating surfaces like you said, then put down some resin on the pan attaching surface, lay a strip of fiberglass cloth the same width as the attaching surface on the resin, cover the top of the cloth with another coat of resin and put the pan in place. Work from the center out with the pop rivits, tightening, but not popping the inner ones to hold the pan is place. Then make sure ALL of the rivits are stuck in place to align the pan and start tightening the rivits with the rivit tool. Should take about three passes with the tool before you pop all the rivits. It's kind of like torquing a cylinder head in that you add more pressure in encriments to make the pan surface lay down flat. The fiberglass "sandwitch" and the aluminum pop rivits will make a killer bond and it will accurately place your pan to the body. Enough glass and resin squeezes out of the back to fill the parting line when its dry. Make sure to use aluminum rivits as they don't corrode and will pop with less force which is what the fiberglass likes. Four years on mine and zero cracks!
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:46 PM
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I did bolt the piece on the other night with nothing bonding the two pieces together. The fit was good and the body lines lined up great! My intention was to then tie the two pieces together on the external / outer body surface with fiberglass & resin. I now do not think that I will ever need to remove this piece and it will not stop me from removing the body from the chassis in any way.

Using the resin & fiberglass between the two pieces as the bonding material (along with the bolts) sounds like a great idea. I like the idea of letting it squish out to fill the seam. It's sort of what I originally had in mind but replacing the epoxy with the fiberglass & resin. Always nice to hear from people who have actually done this before and feedback about results.

What do you think about filing the edges to create a larger 'V' in the seam? Kind of like when you weld two large pieces of steel together. Unecessary or good insurance?

Do you think you would need to apply any fiberglass to the seam or just use body filler to smooth things out?

Thanks to everyone for your input.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:11 AM
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I used some stuff called "kitty hair" which is filler mixed with fiberglass strands but only needed a little as the squish out filled most of what seam was there and, like you, I wanted it smooth. I didn't V or anything else, just stuck it together as detailed and it worked great.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:07 PM
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Well I've officially done my first fiberglass project. I layered up some resin and fiberglass on the rollpan flange. I then slathered up the mating surface flange on the body. Then there was a moment of panic as I was attaching the rollpan to the car and trying to get the 7 bolts to line up with the holes in the body flange and then on into the trunk where things when from gooey to sticky. aah! Once I got the bolts tightend up I got some good material squish at the seams. Then I ran for the accetone to clean up the wrenches before the resin hardend on them. It all turned out fine and it's ready for some sanding, body filler, sanding...

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions and feedback.

Cheers,
Jim
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