Attempting my first t350 overhaul - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2003, 07:16 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 60
Posts: 4,787
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Attempting my first t350 overhaul

Well, I've decided to bite the bullet and try my hand at going through my first 350 tranny. My engine is patientely waiting in the corner for install day.

I"m 50, an x-mechanic of 17 years and have rebuilt many engines, including the 2 latest, full roller 400 and a mild 350 for my truck.

My questions are:
Are all T350s the same? I have a friend who has quite a few in his barn and any or all are mine if I want them. Most came from running OLDER cars some years ago so I"m hoping there won't be alot wrong other than the normal parts.

I"ve been looking at OH kits. Some are under $100 and some are over $200. What do I need to look for in the kits? Its a daily driver and the current tranny shop rebuild has 140k on it and is doing fine. I want to have one ready so the engine/tranny swap can be done in a weekend.

Is this project a dream or can someone like me do it? LOL I have access to a vat for the case and solvent tank for cleaning everything else. Tools will not be a problem either.

Any input or suggestions are welcome, positive or negative.

Thanks
Mark
Phx. AZ.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2003, 09:40 PM
camaroman7d's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vacaville, California
Age: 46
Posts: 2,241
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
You can do it. I recommend getting a manual (ATSG manual). They are for sale on e-bay and you may be able to find one elsewhere. There are also videos available from Eastwood. There really isn't that much to it.

As far as what to look for, go with a kit that has Alto Red Eagle clutches. I also had good luck with one of the TCI kits that Summit Racing sells. As far as strength, the weakest link in the th350 is the sprag. If you don't plan on racing or hot rodding it a lot, the stock style drum/sprag will be fine. If you are going to hammer on it I would suggest buying a TCI super drum and sprag.

All th350's are not the same, there are different bolt patterns one for Chevy and one for BOP (buick, Olds, Pontiac). When I say bolt pattern I am talking about the "bellhousing". There is also a long tail shaft and a short tail shaft version. Usually cars have short tail shafts (except some station wagons). Just check to see what you have and get a rebuildable one that matches what you already have.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2003, 09:44 PM
BstMech's Avatar
NYOFP4RJ3CHRIS
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: TN. In the corporate states of America
Age: 40
Posts: 1,552
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
If you've been wrenchin' a while, I wouldn't be afraid to tear into it.

The hardest parts on these trannies for me the first few times was the low reverse piston spring assembly (you can make a tool for this with some strap steel, all thread and a couple of nuts).

Next, getting the center support to pop out sometimes is a pain. The center support will want to twist, not allowing the nubs on the center support to align with the slots in the case. You can take a flat head screwdriver of about the right width and sort of wedge it between the case and the support while turning on the screwdriver to make it twist the direction you want it. Then you can gently smack the output shaft against the wall or back of the bench to allow the center support to be driven out.

Next is the little snap ring that holds the output shaft in place (just in front of the front planet). I take my straight pick (with a sharp point) and a small flat head screwdriver to remove it. Use the pick first and place it close to where the snap ring ends. Then run the pick down one of the grooves and get in behind the snap ring. Pry the snap ring just far enough away from the shaft to insert the head of the screwdriver in behind the clip (a fairly sharp blade helps) Then you can run the pick around the clip to completely remove it. It's a matter of feel more than anything.

If you have bushings that need replaced, they're no biggy to replace with improvised tools, except the ones in the pump cover. If these are needing replaced, I usually fork out 25 bucks for a reman unit that comes with new bushings already installed.

Check over EVERYTHING for signs of damage. Some common points damage occurs (that I've dealt with anyway) are the planetaries. Make sure the planet gears aren't loose on their pins and that the pins aren't loose in the carrier.

Check the splines in the case where the center support rides for damage.

Make sure the sealing rings on the pump cover haven't grooved out where they contact the direct drum.

I've only done maybe a dozen or more of these trannies, so I'm sure someone else has some input that I'll be wanting to read as well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2003, 09:55 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 60
Posts: 4,787
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Thanks to both of you for the excellent replies. I'm game and ready to go! LOL Guess its road trip time out to my buddies barn. I'll measure my extension housing to make sure I get the right one.

My son is now a mechanic and one of the guys in the shop he works at has redone a few 350s too, so if I get stuck, i do have some help available. I'll post my progress as things move foward.

Mark

Would this be a good kit for my needs?

Well, after looking at lots of kits on eBay, I see why some are cheap and some expensive. Some have the band, some don't. Some have "popular" bushings, some have none, some have a pile of em! LOL

Do I need to wait till its apart to see what I need? I want it good for another 150k, so should I just go for the whole enchilada or wait and see?

Last edited by Jmark; 12-27-2003 at 10:31 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2003, 10:40 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
Posts: 903
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Jmark,
You will need a lot of vasoline to get all the pistons back into their bores without tearing the sealing rings or lip seals. One trick I use is to use compressed air in the passage ways to hear the piston "clunk". That way you will be sure the lip seals didn't tear.
I also leave out most of the springs so that as soon as the clutch pack gets oil it slams into gear, no slipping, no heat.
Have Fun
Scholman
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2003, 08:08 AM
Crosley's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: T-350 rebuild tech
Last journal entry: Bar under the dash
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ... USA
Posts: 7,982
Wiki Edits: 1659

Thanks: 257
Thanked 86 Times in 83 Posts
Cool

Leaving some return springs out can cause a problem. At higher RPM the apply piston in the direct clutch pack can burn the frictions from residual oil behind the piston centrifically appling the clutch pack.

Cross leaks can cause some problems too when too many return springs are removed.

When down shifting the apply piston comes off slower and can heat up the frictions too.

I use a mixture of ATF & STP at a 1-1 ratio for seal installation.





Quote:
Originally posted by scholman
Jmark,
You will need a lot of vasoline to get all the pistons back into their bores without tearing the sealing rings or lip seals. One trick I use is to use compressed air in the passage ways to hear the piston "clunk". That way you will be sure the lip seals didn't tear.
I also leave out most of the springs so that as soon as the clutch pack gets oil it slams into gear, no slipping, no heat.
Have Fun
Scholman
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies... Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2003, 09:08 AM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Like Crosley said, leaving springs out can cause problems. That is an old trick to make harder shifts. The reason the springs are there is for releasing the clutches, by pushing the piston back. Removing the springs slows that down considerably on a stock rebuild. If you use a shift kit, with the increased pressures that they have to over come, it is magnified. It will however help mask problems with low pressure due to worn parts that should have been replaced during rebuild, but then the trans probably wouldn't last that long anyway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2003, 01:09 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 60
Posts: 4,787
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by Jmark
Well, after looking at lots of kits on eBay, I see why some are cheap and some expensive. Some have the band, some don't. Some have "popular" bushings, some have none, some have a pile of em! LOL

Do I need to wait till its apart to see what I need? I want it good for another 150k, so should I just go for the whole enchilada or wait and see?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2003, 02:38 PM
BstMech's Avatar
NYOFP4RJ3CHRIS
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: TN. In the corporate states of America
Age: 40
Posts: 1,552
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I get my kits from Dacco, I can get a super kit that comes with steels, complete set of bushings, band, modulator and filter for about $75. And you can upgrade to whatever components you want and still be getting a discount price. When I lived in Phoenix, I used RPM Merit (sp?)a few times. They are down on either 35th or 43rd ave and about Thomas (Cragar wheels is close by).

The kit you linked to doesn't have any steels, nor a complete set of bushings, as well as lacks the filter. I would go all out and what you don't use you can save for the next tranny. I have quite a collection of bushings and other parts to the point that I can just buy the paper and rubber kit and still be able to complete the job if I need other parts. I've recently started saving anything that has to do with a Turbo 350. I have plenty of hard parts, now I just need more good universal cases.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.