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Old 04-03-2007, 08:26 AM
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Attention lanceks1 concerning new wheel studs

To lanceks1:

You posted in your journal the following:

"04-03-2007 08:23 AM T-Bucket-Legal Now
Don't let anyone tell you that GM's S-10-Blazer, 1998 year model has 1/2-20 rear wheel studs. I have been using the 1/2-20 tapered seat lug nuts on the rear holding on to those 16"
wide meats. The supplier of the rear axle told me what size they are. I went along with it until yesterday, when I tried to torque them down. One nut went to slipping, so I investigated. Seems the size is 12MM, about .473. Not quite 1/2"..So I replaced all of the rear studs with 1/2" units, which I found listed in the trusty Balkamp book, at Napa.
Early on I had replaced the fronts, in the new rotors to match the 1/2"(supposed) rears.
What the heck, this rear axle is about the only thing I haven't personally massaged yet. So I replaced the Wheel Bearings, and Seals while I was messing around back there. My small Snap-on slide hammer, didn't even budge the brgs. from the tube ends. I borrowed a large puller, and after heating the tubes with a Mapp torch, I was able to slam them out, along with plenty of HOT gear oil!
(Emphasis here is by me)
Had to drill the axle flanges, and the drum/rotor holes to the
larger 17/32" size, to accomidate the new studs. And now the wheels are held on by the proper torque."

Did you remove the rear cover and remove the 'C' clips from the axle ends BEFORE you attempted to pull the axles?

If you didn't you will have the broken 'C' clips floating around in the rear end housing and the axles could come out of the rear while driving.

If you did, then all is well and you'll be glad you installed new bearings.

Going to the larger wheel studs is good, but it would have been a lot easier and much cheaper to just use the correct size lug nuts.

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Old 04-03-2007, 04:35 PM
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Couldn't find instructions here

I searched this site, and all I came up with was "swapping a S-10 rear axle into...". Had to look elsewhere for instructions. Found them at PHR site. The axles are the full floating variety, and I did remove the bolt, cross pin, and two "c" retainers, to remove the slideing axles to get to the seal, and bearing which are pressed into the end of each axle tube. The large slide-hammer from Checker worked fine, and the frozen bearings, and generic seals pushed in nicely. I like the seal varieties, because each maker is a little different, and the seal lip(s) move to a different point on the shaft usually.
I changed the studs because I was under the impression that they were already 1/2", when I changed the front rotors to 1/2", from 7/16". And I am not going to have a car with mixed sizes on the WHEELS. Been there, Done that!!!!!
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