Att'n. DanTwoLakes: A Couple of Q's About My Sewing Machine - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:36 PM
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Att'n. DanTwoLakes: A Couple of Q's About My Sewing Machine

Hey, Dan

Can you explain a few things to me?

1. Tacsew says the bobbin can be changed without removing the article being sewn ... I'm not sure how to do that or what it means.

2. The Tacsew has a thread release finger (for heavy thread) ... again, I'm not sure how to do that or what it means.

3. I noticed that the outer (U-shaped) foot sits a bit higher than the center foot on my machine and I was curious about why that would be ... then I read this: "The Tacsew permits the raising and lowering of the center foot which allows for sewing different thicknesses of materials and thus assures positive stitching." -- can you explain this?

Thanks, Dan!!!

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Old 02-11-2007, 01:19 PM
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Eagerly awaiting the answer as well...

I think I know the answers to a couple of these questions, but I'm not sure and don't want to prove to the world that I'm an idiot - they already know - lol.

You think Dan will figure this out and start charging us for answers?

Between you, me, and everyone else on the web, I wish Dan would create a DVD or two on sewing, tips, techniques, and pointers. I know I'd buy it!

By the way, Alan - still waiting for the Robert Johnson tribute album. My favorite of yours is still "Who Do You Say?" but only because I know it best and find myself singing it here and there... Keep the finger to the fret, man - you got talent, and it's obvious.

Cheers!

Dusty
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:00 PM
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Thanks, Dusty ... I sure do appreciate compliments like that one, Brother!

As for Dan's proposed DVD ... I'd surely buy it, too, if only to say thanks for what he's already shared with us this past week! I love you, Dan! LOL!! Nothing personal, man ... just a sincere note of honest appreciation for your patient and concise answers to our questions here at Hotrodders.com! I'm on fire with my new Tacsew and you sure have helped feed the flames in a most positive way.
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:18 PM
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PM me know if Dan doesn't respond to this in the next couple days. He lives up here by me and I can roust him out to answer your question in the event he hasn't been checking into the site.

[added with edit] I just emailed Dan in the hopes that it will get him up off the couch and logged into HR.Com. If this doesn't work, I'll go over to his shop and beat down the door.

Dewey
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:25 PM
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Thanks, Dewey!

Dan sure has been checking in here these past few days though ... we're making him dizzy with questiuons to answer -- and he's been answering them all!
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Old 02-11-2007, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
Hey, Dan

Can you explain a few things to me?

1. Tacsew says the bobbin can be changed without removing the article being sewn ... I'm not sure how to do that or what it means.

2. The Tacsew has a thread release finger (for heavy thread) ... again, I'm not sure how to do that or what it means.

3. I noticed that the outer (U-shaped) foot sits a bit higher than the center foot on my machine and I was curious about why that would be ... then I read this: "The Tacsew permits the raising and lowering of the center foot which allows for sewing different thicknesses of materials and thus assures positive stitching." -- can you explain this?

Thanks, Dan!!!
I am not Dan but, I am by no meaning a machine expert but here goes.

1: If your bobbin loads from the side you can just tilt you machine and swap bobbins

2: release finger?

3: I should have said as well, that you must lower the out foot manualy by either using the knee lever or the hand lever behind the machine.
Make sure you drop the foot to sew.

The height varies to walk. You'll notice the inner foot moves up, forward, down and back, the outer jsut up and down.
On the rear of the machine you'll see an arm, just behind (under) that arm is the tension bar for the center foot. Adjusting that changes the pressure on the center foot. The screw should be directly on top of the machine above that bar.
If your going from sewing curtains, you'd need to decreses the pressure for leather so that the matrerial doesn't bind and sewing proper length stiches.
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:35 AM
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Thanks, Armysniper.

1. Re: The bobbin.
There must be a technique for handling this. When a bobbin runs out, I would guess that you'd miss a couple of stitches ... so you stop sewing, put a new bobbin in ... and then what? You go back a few stitches to pick up where you left off ... and, of course, you don't want to double stitch any stitches ... do you need to tie or secure the end of the old and new bobbin threads?

3. Re: Foot adjustments.
Should the outer foot be adjusted to the same height as the inner foot? Right now, my outer foot is slightly higher than the inner foot.
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Old 02-12-2007, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for the heads up Dewey, and leave my door alone (BTW, let me know how your latest project is going.) I was working on our annual snowmobile dance and didn't get any time to post. Alan: For normal sewing, both parts of the feet should be at the same level, but this is when the needle is at the bottom of it's stroke when the hook is just ready to go past the needle to pick up the top thread. If the needle is in any other position, the feet will be slightly different in height, one way or another. If you lift up the foot and leave it up while you turn the handwheel you can see this. For other sewing with heavier materials, it may require un-equal heights, and that's when you need to adjust. As far as changing the bobbins goes, I can't change my bobbin without taking the work out, and I have never seen a machine that would. In order to change bobbins, you have to get the new bobbin thread under the tension on the bobbin case and I don't know how that's possible unless you can hold the thread in your hand to do it. (Armysniper do you agree?)That's why I always change to a new bobbin or check to make sure I have enough bobbin thread before topstitching vinyl or leather. If you forget to check, (something I would never do, LOL) what I do is go back about 4 stitches, put the needle through one of the holes from the previous stitches and continue sewing. After you finish the seam you're working on, go back to where the splice is and pull on the bottom thread which will pull the top thread through to the back side. Cut off both pieces of thread leaving about 1/4" of each. Then take a BIC lighter and melt the thread. This is not perfect by any means and I wouldn't do it any place that would obviously show. As far as a regular seam goes, just start an inch back from where the thread ran out, backstitch it and keep going. As far as the release finger goes, I don't have a clue. As far as the DVD goes, I'm not pretty enough for that. As far as charging for my services, the invoice is in the mail (no checks accepted).
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Old 02-12-2007, 08:29 AM
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Alan: I just checked on the thread finger with my sewing machine mechanic. It's there to allow heavy thread to pass by without screwing up your machine. I have one on both my machines also. I can't totally explain it, but you don't have to do anything, it does it automatically.
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Old 02-12-2007, 08:43 AM
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Thanks, Dan. I'll have to experiment with the feet levels and learn how to apply this knowledge to my projects. I sure would like to take a class that teaches about these machines!

Note: The Consew 206RB has a "safety clutch and thread release finger (for heavy thread)", and also claims that the "bobbin can be changed without removing article being sewn."

I did find this about the release finger (?)
  • A lockstitch sewing machine includes a rotary hook, with a bobbin housing and a cam is provided for the rotation-secure retention of the bobbin housing and it is arranged a small distance behind the stitch hole in the direction of hook rotation. A holding finger for holding the bobbin housing against rotation with the hook body projects from the bobbin housing, as well as a supporting finger arranged substantially 90-degrees before the stitch hole. A shoulder projecting from the bobbin housing is associated with the supporting finger.
I'm gonna have to research this and figure it out. First of all, everyone I talk to seems to say the same thing; that there really is no "heavy" thread ... just stronger thread (nylon vs cotton). Even the jean thread isn't much heavier than the #92, from what I can see.
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Old 02-12-2007, 08:45 AM
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Oops. I posted the above while you were posting your's about the thread finger. Thanks again, Dan.

PS - The instruction manual for my Tacsew (made in China) is insane to try and read! It's exactly as though a Chinese person, who speaks English very poorly, is speaking to you and says things that are impossible to interpret!

It's not really a problem ... but it sure does make one wonder why they do things like this.
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Old 02-12-2007, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
In order to change bobbins, you have to get the new bobbin thread under the tension on the bobbin case and I don't know how that's possible unless you can hold the thread in your hand to do it. (Armysniper do you agree?)That's why I always change to a new bobbin or check to make sure I have enough bobbin thread before topstitching vinyl or leather. If you forget to check, (something I would never do, LOL) what I do is go back about 4 stitches, put the needle through one of the holes from the previous stitches and continue sewing. After you finish the seam you're working on, go back to where the splice is and pull on the bottom thread which will pull the top thread through to the back side. Cut off both pieces of thread leaving about 1/4" of each. Then take a BIC lighter and melt the thread. This is not perfect by any means and I wouldn't do it any place that would obviously show. As far as a regular seam goes, just start an inch back from where the thread ran out, backstitch it and keep going.
I do! I mean, yes I agree.
I too "always" make sure there is enough bobbin thread when top stiching. Pre-wound bobbins are the best thing since sliced bread, for just the thing.
I also tie square knot before flaming thread (fyi, that is to prevent unravelling).

BTW: there are definetly "beefier" threads for top stiching, I cannot recall how they are defined but I'll get back to ya on that.
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Old 02-12-2007, 11:17 AM
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Please do!

I want to try these "beefier" threads ... seems to me that for top stitching or french stitching, a bolder statement should be made.

Where's the beef!? The only "beefy" thread I've seen is the jean thread ... and it's not much, really.
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Old 02-12-2007, 11:46 AM
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What they're referring to is 138 , 210, and 277 thread that are use for tents, awning and canvas. 138 is twice as thick as 69, 210 is 3 times as heavy, and 277 is 4 times as heavy. You need a bigger needle (150 instead of 135) to be able to sew with it. It's hard to find colors other than black or white. Have you to understand goodly that which I am to say you?
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Old 02-12-2007, 11:50 AM
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Here a pic to see the difference:
The top piece is a 92 thread size F
The bottom might be a 138. I'll check though

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