[71corvette]

Originally Posted by dustyrustee

The first cheap helmet I bought 5 years ago (battery powered) was exactly as you described.....However, the $68 solar I bought 2 years ago is a whole different creature and I am very happy with it.....

ps: both came with replaceable lens protectors....and as a tip:

I buy thin Lexan sheet and cut my own w/snips....much less $$$$

mine must have been cheaper than yours because it came without lens protectors. my Miller came with 6 extra covers for both inside and outside. I truly could not believe the difference.

[dustyrustee]

Originally Posted by 71corvette

mine must have been cheaper than yours because it came without lens protectors. my Miller came with 6 extra covers for both inside and outside. I truly could not believe the difference.

Corvette.....I truly believe what you say.....there are huge differences in quality between brands in that chineese stuff....

The first one I got which was crap came from a discount joint with a no refund policy...so I tossed out $97 for garbage....

HOWEVER: the 2nd one I bought for $68 from a tool store chain here in canada that has an open refund policy, full satisfaction or money given back, even if well used!....and BTW; for me it works flawlessly and visibility is excellent....with all welding processes....and when welding outside in sunlight too....

Guess I flooked out!!! because I was really in doubt when I bought it!

PS: I weld professionally.....have for over 30 yrs. now.....and don't like to own junk....

[sgo70]

Rusty I was just wondering if the one you got from Princess Auto is a dark green when you're not welding. Mine seems too dark almost like the protective coating is still on it, is this normal??

Sean

[dustyrustee]

Originally Posted by sgo70

Rusty I was just wondering if the one you got from Princess Auto is a dark green when you're not welding. Mine seems too dark almost like the protective coating is still on it, is this normal??

Sean

Sean.....the view thru the lens will be a shade of green because it is always at shade 4 or 5 when not welding so that you have protection from arc flash in the event that the lens does not switch due to failure....and to protect your eyes during the switching time to dark mode.....

I do not know if you are familiar w/auto helmets but if you were expecting the lens to be clear when not welding you are mistaken.....

FYI: a shade of 5 is the shade most used in goggles for oxy-acetylene cutting and welding....so if you have a set of such goggles w/#5 lens you can compare with looking thru your helmet while it is not turned on (goggle lenses are etch marked for shade by the way)....

when I use my plasma cutter I use my helmet with the lens not turned on...for eye protection.....

Now, i am unable to look thru your helmet to compare with mine and I don't know what you define as "dark green"....but I can tell you that before striking the arc you should be able to definitely see where your electrode or mig wire is positioned and be able to see the work area quite clearly......as looking through 'dark green sun glasses, etc'....providing you have good shop lighting or outdoor daylight of course.....

I would not define the view thru my helmet as being DARK.....but definitely a lighter shade of green.....

If you are unsure if the unswitched shade is correct, I can only suggest that you compare with #4 or #5 normal welding lens....

Princess sells oxy/acet goggles equipped with shade 5 lense.....compare your helmet with those in the store if you dont own such goggles....

I hope this helps you Sean.....Ian

[kgus]

I bought a cheap auto helmet from msc ~9 years ago and it works well for me. One thing for the people who complain that the cheap ones are too dark. About 2 years ago I am having dinner with SWMBO, and railing about how dark it was, and why do they make the writing on the menu so small.....well, she replied by getting me an eye exam. Well, I'll tell you, BIG difference in my welding. Just reading glasses, but my vision is greatly affected by the light, and while I can read pretty well in bright light, just a slight dimming and it is impossible. It is much easier to see through the dark starting lense and while welding through the darkened lense. The narrow focus distance is a problem with reading glasses, but I may look into different focal length glasses.

[sgo70]

Thanks for the info. I see Miller has some for $150 that are a shade #3, I'm gonna go take a look at them. Mine seems like a 6 or 7!!

Sean

[Holder350]

I only have problems welding when I don't have a good light source. (like inside) Or I'm between my work and light.

Trust me.....a drop light makes a world of difference when welding.

[dustyrustee]

Originally Posted by sgo70

Thanks for the info. I see Miller has some for $150 that are a shade #3, I'm gonna go take a look at them. Mine seems like a 6 or 7!!

Sean

nice thing about p/auto.....NO QUESTIONS ASKED RETURNS....

[forschoolonly559]

I want to say that my Harbor Freight Welding helmet is a failure. It works with mig/fluxcore, and stick. NOT Tig. It flashed me several times welding tig low and high amp. It solar powered. Im going to get a #10 fixed shade until i can get the new Miller Titan Helmet, its made for low amp tig especially.

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by bentwings

I have a Miller auto dark and just got a new job TIG welding and Mig welding. Mostly stainless steel. The problem is that the welds are on 3/4 to 1 in material and the darkest setting is still about 1 shade not enough. After the 2nd day my eyes are really tired. It's hard switching from one process to the other but the auto dark is easy to adjust. It's just the MIG on the thick stuff is really bright. I even tried adding sunglasses but if anything they made it worse.

I used a whole spool of .045 wire in 4-5 hours. It's almost non stop. Then switch to tig. I'd guess at least 5 pounds of rod. They told me there is an even bigger job coming.

Stack a #5 behind the auto lens, and turn the auto lens down. Your helmet probably goes from 8 to 13.
A 5 with helmet set on 9 will give you a 14, etc. You will be looking thru an "8 or 9" before darkening though. But your eye fatigue will be reduced.

NOT all welding helmet lens are safe .

There is a Federal safety standard ANSI Z87.1

If the product you are using or going to buy does not display the ANSI cert, then I personally would not use it.

Just like motorcycle helmets, the law says they must be DOT, but go into any Harley shop and there will be "helmets" that are not approved that are for sale.

[bentwings]

I worked in the same kind of job. Extreme Mig then either fine or extreme Tig. More than a spool of wire a night or better than 10# of Tig wire. I had the same problem however I found that I was just sticking my head too close to the weld. I got 3 different power reading glasses that allowed me to back off a little and it really helped.

[timothale]

I bought a couple of the magnifier lens that fit inside the rect gas welding goggles and used some aluminum A C duct tape to fasten it inside my welding helmet. that is a lot better than reading glasses. Sometimes when crawling under farm machinery the sensor on the helmet doesn't get the arc flash to turn it on .. and sometimes bright sunlight trips it before I strike an arc, and after welding for 55 years I need a good light shining on the work to see enough to get a good weld.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by forschoolonly559

I want to say that my Harbor Freight Welding helmet is a failure. It works with mig/fluxcore, and stick. NOT Tig. It flashed me several times welding tig low and high amp. It solar powered. Im going to get a #10 fixed shade until i can get the new Miller Titan Helmet, its made for low amp tig especially.

Don't fault this helmet because it is from Harbor Freight because a lot of the low end models don't work very well with TIG regardless of brand. It seems that a lot of the ones without a sensitivity adjustment (and some with it like the HF model) have a problem with TIG and this is by no means limited to the HF helmets, which BTW share an identical lens module with some "name brand" helmets. If you spend the money to buy a full featured helmet with all the bells and whistles it can be expected to be adequate for all types of welding but for the price of a lower end model that is lacking some features that a lot of people simply don't need you can expect it to be somewhat limited, regardless of name brand. Over all the HF helmet has earned a pretty decent reputation for performance and has developed quite a following, it sounds like your case is more of exceeding it's capabilities than a failure.

[matts37chev]

i have both a HF and a speedglass
the HF hangs on the welder because of the solar batt
and the speedglass lives in the toolbox because it cost so much money
well the cheap one gets used alot because its handy
and it works well enough i often wonder why i have the expensive one

[sparkydog]

I just left our local Harbor Freight store and I noticed that they are holding a parking lot sale in early JUNE. They say they will be selling their $50 auto dark helmet for $3X.XX (didn't pay attention to the exact number).

I don't know if every HF store will be doing this but thought I would start the rumor.