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Auto Dim Welding Helmet

11K views 35 replies 21 participants last post by  bentwings 
#1 ·
I want to gat an auto helmet. The prices range from $75.00 to $400.00 or more. What can I expect for $100.00? Worth the money??
 
#2 ·
I rec'd a low end helmet as a gift. I have never tried any other auto helmet though. I don't have great lighting in my shop and it is too dark to see good before starting an arc. I find myself still lifting the helmet :rolleyes: It's even worse with my failing eyes. :confused:

Maybe someone here can give info on a high end helmet?
 
#3 ·
I have a Jackson that is about 10 years old sold for about $150.00 back then. It works great I use it every day. It also has the adjustable shade on it for different darkess for different types of welding. I have put a 2x cheater lens init so you can see better. That helps a lot with old eyes that need bifocals.
 
#4 ·
I have to tell you, I have used a number of auto dimming helmets and didn't like a single one of them. I just don't like them. They are too dark before you strike is my biggest complaint. Shades are rated in numbers. Your MIG welding helmet has a 10 to 12 which is recommended for welding 60-250 amps. Your typical sun glasses are something like a 4. The darn auto shade helmets START at 2-4. They are dark before you begin and so you need some light to see what you are doing. You forget to turn them on, most have a small lense, I just don't like them. I love new stuff, I have tried a number of them because I WANT to get something better, I am always looking for something better to make my life easier. But after trying many different ones, I have never found one to be better than my Cherokee "Accustrike" helmet that I bought almost 20 years ago.

It works like this..


You open and close the shaded lense with your chin. You don't have to move it much, so don't think you have to open your mouth. Just a little separation of your teeth without even opening your lips will do it.

It opens to a very large 4x6 or so inch perfectly clear lense. You can weld a weld or two and then pop it open and grind and then put it back down (if you open it all the way it requires your hand to close it) for your next welds.

Yes you will see a quote from my article "Basics of Basics" to MIG welding on the site in the testimonials. He did that on his own I didn't even see it until I went to order a new helmet so I wouldn't have to bring the one I had home from work on weekends. I have NO CONNECTION WHAT SO EVER with this company. I actually sent him a letter almost twenty years ago after buying my very first helmet telling him how much I liked it.
I "pitch" this helmet to anyone who is thinking about buying a new helmet because it WORKS and works well.

They are only about $90.00 on the their site as I remember.


Click here for Accustrike Helmets

Brian
 
#9 ·
427v8 said:
I have a cheapo Northern Tool helmet that I love.
it has adjustable darkness and sensivity, works great.

It's under $100 I think it was on sale for $49 or something rediculus

It even has flames!

Keith

I have one from HF that I got for 49 samolions..works fine for me...and I wear trifocals..

Sam
 
#11 ·
Tried several auto lenses, didn't like any of them . Tried a Jackson nextgen and loved it. Fairly clear on the light side and is adjustable 9- 13. quick adjustable transition and has enough UV resistance when clear to prevent accidental arcburn if it has timed out. Shuts off after a period of no use to save batteries. uses standard watch batteries available everywhere. Price is kinda scary, but nothing is to good for my eyes. :)
 
#12 ·
Got to agree with 61 on the Jackson it's probably the best one out there. I also agree with MartinSr in that I don't care much for the darn things for body work because I can not see the seam through the thing while welding unless I outline it with soapstone prior to welding, don't have that problem with a regular helmet. Most people love them for body work however but I know a few who say the same thing I do about them so the best thing would be to try one and decide for yourself if it is for you. Another little trick I did recently is buy one of those Huntsman lens replacements for a conventional helmet that lets have the best of both. It simply drops in place of the old standard lens and converts your old flip-up helmet to an auto-dark but still retains the flip-up lens feature. These things are around $100 but work as good as any auto-dark I have used and visibility is great with one.
 
#13 ·
I have the flamed autodarkening one from northern tool uses aa or aaa batteries cant remember which, has a solar panel to keep them charged up works great a little big and a little heavy but for welding in the open and not twisting around the differential welding mufflers on it cant be beat.It has uv protection so that you wont get arc flash even if it doesnt darken.When it is off it is fully dark so no harm if you forget to turn it on....The chin operated helmet would be tough for us gum chewers to use :p

Shane
 
#14 ·
Glad someone brought this subject up - and now I don't feel quite so bad about an occasional "off track" weld (like about an inch away from where I want to be - mama, grab the grinder).

Since I'm not the only one that has this problem tho I don't really care for the concept of Brian's fave, there are other good suggestions to consider and I will look at all of them (but Brian's, sorry)

Dave
 
#15 ·
I totally understand Dave, it is not for everyone. Shane, as far as chewing gum, you probably don't chew WHILE you are welding anyway. :) I chew, never thought about it. I know it is an odd fellow, but I wouldn't live without it.

Brian
 
#16 ·
Irelands child said:
Glad someone brought this subject up - and now I don't feel quite so bad about an occasional "off track" weld (like about an inch away from where I want to be - mama, grab the grinder).Dave

I can't remember who just right now but someone else mentioned this problem about a year ago and there was a short discussion about it. Because of the nature of the way these things work the lens tends to get the darkest at the brightest spot which of course is the arc itself so even if you lighten the shade it does not help much as the arc area will remain dark. I can see MUCH better with my old conventional helmet with the #10 lens. :)
 
#17 ·
oldred said:
I can't remember who just right now but someone else mentioned this problem about a year ago and there was a short discussion about it. Because of the nature of the way these things work the lens tends to get the darkest at the brightest spot which of course is the arc itself so even if you lighten the shade it does not help much as the arc area will remain dark. I can see MUCH better with my old conventional helmet with the #10 lens. :)
I do recall that 'conversation' of a while back

I'm not sure that I've seen that "dark spot" but since I wear Transition lenses/multifocal glasses, almost anything is possible. This is a problem as well with trying to weld because where you see the best close up is now at the bottom of each lens instead of straight ahead. I've said that I wanted to buy some of those cheapy Wally World OTC glasses just for welding, but generally just end up welding and never getting those specs on the shopping list :nono: The fact that years ago I did a significant amount of stick welding up to the point of all position Navy qualification sure has not helped my TIG and the bird dropping appearing beads. I have just put it down to the fact that I cannot see worth a darn close-up anymore. And that was in the days before self darkening helmets. I think that if I was to try the old style helmet again, I'd just end up with flash burned eyes - and one time was more then enough. With the choices others have noted here, there has to be a self darkening lens somewhere that starts near clear then darkens to the 12-14 shade recommended.

Dave
 
#18 ·
Don't think there is one that starts any lighter because in order to meet safety regs they have to have total protection even in the lightened phase that's why you will not get a "flash" burn to the eyes even if it fails to darken. The problem I am talking about, if it is even a problem, is that a small area around the arc is almost totally dark making the seam difficult to see but this does not occur with a conventional helmet. I even had some problem when stick welding with them back when I was still working in the field and sometimes I would give up and grab my old helmet, but then those auto dark helmets are so darn convenient. Also not being able to see good close up causing poor welds is not just an excuse, it is a fact! Have you tried the magnifying clear lens? They come in several different strengths and once you get used to using the darn things they can make all the difference in the world. They are however like bifocals in that they take some getting used to and most people who say they are more trouble than they are worth usually just don't give them time.
 
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