Don't spend money on an old hood, just go to a body shop and ask them for one! Any big bodyshop has a LOT of scrap metal. We have a metal bin at work that is about 15x25x5 feet in size. I just called the company to come and empty it yesterday. It is FULL of late model fenders, hoods, doors, quarters and more. These panels are perfect to practice painting on because they have nice OEM paint on them, just scuff and paint. Get fenders, they are MUCH easier to handle. Then after you do a few spray a hood. But most every body shop is going to have a collection of sheetemetal that is being thrown out that they are more than happy to give away being they are throwing it away.
I don't understand why he said slower reducer makes something flash faster, that makes no sense. But he is very right that the water borne paint needs to be COMPLETELY flashed off of water before clear is applied. And believe it or not heat isn't always the answer, it's air movement. Air "tumbling" over the surface of the paint pulls the water out of it. So just simply blowing air at it may not do it. The air being blown at it creates a little layer of dead air. Sort of like how you can drive down the road with a spider on your hood. Have you ever had that happen where some bug is sitting on your hood or windshield and you can't believe he is still hanging on as you drive down the road. He is able to do this because of the layer of dead air that sits right on the surface. Just simply blowing air on the paint does the same thing. You need this device to make the air tumble over the surface.
Here's one for $35 Pneumatic AIR DRYER BLOWER GUN Waterborne Auto Car Paint Drying HVLP Spray Gun on eBay!