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"B" Pillar fill

3K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  Trophyman 
#1 ·
OK--I'm installing bear claw latches on my 39 Chevy and now I need to install the striker plate in the "B" pillar. Can one of your expert fab guys please advise me as to how you would fill this pillar so as to hold a striker bolt. It's hard to see at this angle but the top is more narrow than the bottom.

Thanks.
 

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#5 ·
Hey DBM, thanks for the reply. I will not have access to the inside of the "B" pillar once I weld this in. Actually, because of inexperience on my part, I welded the mounting plate for the bear claw into the door before I checked to see where the glass channel went.

There is a structure just inside the door that I thought the window ran in., it was not! The side window channel bolted to that so my latch interfered with that. I had to cut that mounting plate and space the latch out about 3/16" and re-weld.

I also found that I could not replicate the original body line where the door seal sits so I cut the striker plate down and had it tacked in. Glad I didn't weld it in before I found my brain fart. Just a lack of experience, but I understand that often experience comes from making mistakes.
"DO IT NICE, OR DO IT TWICE: LOL

Re-doing it now, will post pics today.
 

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#4 ·
I am not sure what the bolt looks like and your nomenclature, but I would imagine you need to weld a nut or thread that plate for the bolt when you get your alignment of the latch on there.Not sure on the thickness of the plate so if it is thin don't tap it. If you are welding a nut, first make the nut round, a lathe helps to remove the hex.Drill the hole the same size as the nut outer diameter. Again a lathe helps to get the diameter of the nut the size you want. Drill the hole (same size as the nut) and weld it flush to the plate. Grind smooth.

Here is a pic of what I am talking about. This is a headache rack I did.



 
#6 · (Edited)
I am not sure what the bolt looks like and your nomenclature, but I would imagine you need to weld a nut or thread that plate for the bolt when you get your alignment of the latch on there.Not sure on the thickness of the plate so if it is thin don't tap it. If you are welding a nut, first make the nut round, a lathe helps to remove the hex.Drill the hole the same size as the nut outer diameter. Again a lathe helps to get the diameter of the nut the size you want. Drill the hole (same size as the nut) and weld it flush to the plate. Grind smooth. Here is a pic of what I am talking about. This is a headache rack I did.
I picked up a striker bolt and nut at parts store so I am using that. I put it an a "cage" behind the plate so it can move around a slight bit, to allow for adjustments.

That looks good.do you have access to the inside of the pillar if the outer patch is welded in?
So, I spaced the latch plate out from it's original position about 3/16 of an inch. Just have to fab up the striker plate and recess it, a like amount, in the "B" pillar. I'm not a body man by any means, but it's the best I could do.

The original install is beside it.-----OH Yea, I also filled that area where the original striker went in the side of the door.
 

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#7 ·
I donr even know how many latches I've installed but one thing I can tell you is ever car is different so each one is the first time and mistakes are going to happen so just tack it in so if it does need to come back apart its not such a big deal .sometimes you think your done and weld it all up then find out something like a lock cylender or window channel is in the way later on, so tack in in and get it all back together (completely) and when it all works then take it apart and weld it up tight and do the finish work. doing it 2-3 times is normal when finding the perfect spot to put it,knowing this will save a lot of agravation...
The door and latch looks good. and you've had the forthought of making the striker adjustable ...
when you look at a striker you'll notice theres a bunch of washers at the base.Those are actually shims to get the striker closer to the door.be sure the head of the striker is nt rubbing on the fingers of the latch by adding or taking out the washers/ shims...like body shims, striker shims come in various thicknesses. You should use at least one so it spreads out the stress to a wider area (like the base of a lamp, the wider the base the more stable it is.)
 
#9 ·
SO---after modifying the latch assy to clear the window track it was necessary to "sink" the striker plate into the "B" pillar. Fabbed up a piece to hold the striker and also filled the lower area that held the "wedge" for the door alignment. I'm not a body guy, but turned out better than I thought.
 

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