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Old 04-24-2005, 06:27 PM
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Bad Fuel Pump...Pump or wiring?

My 1996 chev truck wouldn't start after I got home from the parts store the other day. I bought a new 2" ball for towing a utility trailer, attached it to the rear bumper and went to start the truck to hook up the trailer....well nothing happened. Couldn't hear the fuel pump engage. I swapped the relay module for a new one and changed out the fuse (it wasn't blown but I changed it anyways) and still nothing.

Is there another fuse I should be looking for and if not where is the disconnect to the pump wiring so I can test for power?

All help would be appreciated as I just bought the truck and want to be out enjoying it instead of staring at it.

Brent

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Old 04-24-2005, 07:03 PM
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Get under the truck with a rubber mallot (or a fist werks too lol) and beat on the tank with the ignition in the 'on' position, if the pumps shot this may get it going again so you can drive to the parts store
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Old 04-24-2005, 08:26 PM
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the connector for the fuel pump is just behind the frame, right where the lines go up on top of the tank. it is fairly easy to get to. you will have to have someone to turn on the key as you check for power. it is not a constant power source, and will shut off about 2 seconds after the key is turned on. you have to wait about 10 seconds with the key off before you can try it again. smacking it on the bottom, like tbirdscott said does work to get it to a better place to work on it. good luck.
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Old 04-25-2005, 01:23 AM
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Pump

Doc here,

Does that truck have a roll over switch in the rear?

If so, It might be stuck or bad too...shutting off the pump.

Doc
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Old 04-25-2005, 01:14 PM
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I found the connector. The tester light comes on with the ignition when the tester is in the middle pin of the connector. However, it stays on longer than the few seconds mentioned in the post above. Is this the correct pin?
Also I'm not sure if there is a roll-over switch on these vehicles. Anyone else have some thoughts on this??
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:33 PM
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sorry about that huckster, i could have at least told you what wire to check. it should a gray wire on your truck. let us know how you make out.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:55 PM
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Got it all figured out today. The center pin is constant power with ignition on for the gauges or so I'm told. I did get the 2 second power on the gray. So I do have power at the pump connector meaning my pump is toast. Pricing a new one tomorrow and hope to have it installed by the weekend.

Thanks for the help guys. Much appreciated.
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:57 AM
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glad to hear you got it figured out, but be prepared when you price out the pump, 95 and up have the expensive pumps. includes sending unit. good luck with your project.
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Old 04-26-2005, 08:12 AM
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When checking for price try a Chevy dealer. Here (San Diego area) the Chevy dealer is about a $100.00 cheaper than Napa. The in tank pumps run from $200-$500. BE SURE IT COMES WITH THE SOCK!
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:51 PM
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Thats my next question.... should I go with a GM part or will a jobber (aftermarket) pump be just as good? Prices on the jobber parts are roughly $80 less than buying the GM part.

Is it worth paying the extra??
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Old 04-26-2005, 08:23 PM
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i have always used jobber fuel pumps because of the price and thats what the customer wants, and i have never had a problem with any of them, and believe me , i have done a lot of them. but when i'm working on my own stuff i prefer to use dealer parts. so i guest it's up to you.
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