[68NovaSS]

My brother is refurbishing a fiberglass boat, and painted (rolled) the surface with Blue Water Mega Gloss paint, he says it's a Polyurethane Enamel. He let it sit for 24 hours per instructions on the product, then did a test clear coating with something called Toon Brite clear, which says it's an Acrylic Polymer. The picture is what happened in the test area.

He ordered this material online, no instruction or data sheets, and no online tech support.

Any ideas what's going on here? I've had contamination in automotive re-coating, but it was while using the same PPG products.

[DanielC]

A wild guess. Something called "Toon Bright Clear" is a product designed to be applied direct to aluminum pontoons, and may contain acids, or other ingredients to etch, or improve a bond with bare aluminum.
Also a good possibility you have some issues with solvents not being compatible.

[68NovaSS]

Solvent incompatibility could be an issue, however looking at what tech data I am able to find, it claims to be useable over old tarnished paint, etc. I see a cleaning product from them you might be referring to for bare metal, he didn't use that. Thanks for the fast response.

[dinger]

It almost looks like lacquer over enamel. Solvents aren't marrying.

[MARTINSR]

Well, you don't need a DNA analysis, just don't do it again! It could be a number of things just as pointed out, but WHY it happened really comes down to that clear shouldn't have been applied over the paint, PERIOD and leave it at that.

Brian

[68NovaSS]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Well, you don't need a DNA analysis, just don't do it again! It could be a number of things just as pointed out, but WHY it happened really comes down to that clear shouldn't have been applied over the paint, PERIOD and leave it at that.

Brian

Well, thanks Brian, great response. No, it doesn't require a DNA analysis, I'm looking for an answer, not a spanking...and the caps?

[MARTINSR]

No spanking, honest, don't take me so serious.

Brian

[skip99]

like dinger says , looks like the base was an air dry enamel..not a 2k....top clear dryed faster...

[OneMoreTime]

Base is a single stage enamel and was not totally cured out and then the clear was applied ..solvent trap...then the shrinkage set in with the end result as seen..leave the clear in the can may be the best thing..or let the boat set out in the sun for a good long time before trying this again...

Sam

[oldfart952]

yoh bud, i've painted cars for 40 yrs it sure looks like wrong reducer or thinner or wrong hardner . its all cracked theres tons of things like wrong paint over one it'll crack like my a-- . stop check things on cardboard or plywood. hope i helped. oldfart

[68NovaSS]

Originally Posted by oldfart952

yoh bud, i've painted cars for 40 yrs it sure looks like wrong reducer or thinner or wrong hardner . its all cracked theres tons of things like wrong paint over one it'll crack like my a-- . stop check things on cardboard or plywood. hope i helped. oldfart

He didn't thin it since he was rolling, and he said he painted a piece of plywood and cleared it first, without any problems.

He did say the area he tested and got these results was in the motor well, in a corner where the paint was thick, so maybe it was a flash problem.

[Old Fool]

From what I can find in a quick search is he used a clear coat designed to go on raw metal.
They ( manufacturer)do mention it can be applied over old chalky paint.
No mention of using it over fresh paint, or what kind of paint.

It is a product very similar to Sharkhide..

It most likely is lacquer based.
MSDS : http://www.kelloggmarine.com/msds/TN...A1000_MSDS.pdf

Save that stuff for a pontoon boat and go buy some automotive clear.

[Quikvmax]

Originally Posted by Old Fool

From what I can find in a quick search is he used a clear coat designed to go on raw metal.
They ( manufacturer)do mention it can be applied over old chalky paint.
No mention of using it over fresh paint, or what kind of paint.

It is a product very similar to Sharkhide..

It most likely is lacquer based.
MSDS : http://www.kelloggmarine.com/msds/TN...A1000_MSDS.pdf

Save that stuff for a pontoon boat and go buy some automotive clear.

+1 I agree with ya...I own a welding shop where I specialize in aluminum welding and boat repair... anything to do with aluminum boats is usually acid based to remove aluminum oxidation(which occurs instantly in the case of aluminum) or to seal the metal...if the base coat hadn't completely off gassed then that was the problem.

Go with a decent auto clear...it'll still fade 100x faster than the original gelcoat,but if you keep it covered when not in use it'll last awhile for you.

[swvalcon]

What you've got is solvent reaction from the clear with the paint that you put it over. The same thing happens when you re-coat acrylic enamel that doesn't have a hardener in it. It will lift and wrinkle the paint under it.You will have to sand that all off until you get to a good surface and redo.Use a clear like spi but if the base color is a single stage without any kind of a hardener in it you will still have issues.