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So we buy only pieces and build the combinations. This also gives me a chance to select the exact combination of parts from various manufacturers and sources that I prefer and trust or want to experiment with. Balance is one of the last operations we do, however, the engine will be assembled and checked for timing between cam and crank and clearances of bearings and parts at least once for a standard build and several times for custom/competition builds even when using common off the shelf parts as often you get unpleasant dimensional surprises that are a lot easier to deal with before fire is put in the cylinders. Balance quality will vary between street and competition builds with that varience is cost. There is little sense in putting the effort (thus cost) into a mild performance street build up as goes into a high level competition engine and the type of balance between simple straight up versus games with under or over balance as this gets esoteric and costly and is not necessary for engines that don't see RPMs in the 6000 up range. That's not to say that a hot street engine isn't balanced well and correctly but I'll accept a bit wider tolerance in the intrest of cost. That is unless the customer wants it to the knats and is willing to pay for it even if it will never be used nor felt, if the customer want to spend money on an overbuild I'm willing to take it and we have several that do just that. So the summary is that prebalanced kits may or not be correct and may or not be correctly done. Then there is aways the issue that assembly may require changes that upset the balance requiring it be done again. Lastly, if the balance isn't correct it takes engine removal and disassembly to correct which is a lot of effort and cost that is most likely not going to be covered by the manufacturer or seller. Bogie |
| The Following User Says Thank You to oldbogie For This Useful Post: | ||
1Gary (11-17-2012) | ||
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Balancing
Hey 377 .... Just pay the 180 bucks and have it balanced It is not worth the risk!!!!! My Eagle crank was off and came with the wrong balancer so off to the balance guy it went.He had to remove some from the crank and the flex plate....I learned some things you cant cheese out on.....Balance it!!!!!!
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Do a search on problems with prebalanced assemblies |
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Ok so hopefully no body from eagle is listening but. I open the kit and weigh all the parts if something is off i send it back. Either as out of spec or damaged in shipping until they send me the right part.
Usally a quick trip to the scale and flat surface and either its ready to run or ready to go back. Just like every other company in the world eagle has employees that are lazy and some that have no concern about what goes out. But they do care and will try to get you the right parts. Key here is finding the problem before its got 10k miles on it. Got to know if you are going to have an issue before the kit is installed. Maybe someone that does balancing can help with some type of at home test to tell if the kit is installable. You know if someone send you the wrong alternator because it does not fit. But if they sent you a 60 amp and you ordered an 80 how would you tell if its the same bolt pattern and style. Same thing with stroker kit. I have a few simple test i do but im sure someone would say its not enough to be sure its right. But all i do is compare the balancer and flexplate to the ones i have in the garage. i check the weight of all the pistons and rods against what is on the spec sheet to make sure they are labled and correct as per spec. Check the rods for straightness and bearing size. I also take several minutes to review each part and make sure it has all its finish machine work and has actually been cut to spec. Crank ahould be smooth and chambferred on the edges. Usally with in a few minutes you can go over the kit and see if its put togther by monkeys or an engine that kit that is ready to run. |
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If the assembly was spun balanced there should be a balance sheet accompanying the assembly showing the weights, etc. If there is none, assume it was statically balanced. That said, prebalanced kits from Eagle- regardless of the method- should be spun balanced by a reputable shop IMO. Double that if there's no balance sheet. There's a chance the vendor might do dynamic balancing of the Eagle kits, but you'd have paid for this. You might want to read what Eagle themselves has to say: http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?op...d=28&Itemid=25 |
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BALANCED rotating assembly
Last December when I was checking out 496 rotating assemblies I went to CNC Motorsports website. There were so many kits to chose from. I wanted a forged crank, forged pistons, and H Beam rods. They had Eagle, Scat, and Callies kits. Then you have categories such as Budget, Claimer, Competition, Performance, and Pro Series. I had decided on Keith Black Icon Performance Pistons before I decided to buy a rotating assembly. I finally came upon the CNC pro series kit that had a forged Eagle crank, 3D H Beam rods, and Speed Pro Pistons. So I got on the phone and called sales and asked if I could substitute IC789 pistons instead od the Speed Pros. His answer was they could make up a kit as long as they carried the brand parts I wanted. So I ended up ordering a CNC Pro Series assembly internal balanced by them (not by Eagle). I have my balance sheet they sent with it. BTW the balance sheet has a 0 by crank snout and the weights of all the parts.
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my pistons where in a srp box and not sealed, unless you call the box wings that keep it closed.. the bearings had my name on the back side.. the rings.. numbered to a piston and pistons numbered.. and rods in box and each rod in plastic(think vacuum sealed food.. with the big and small weight and how much taken off and my name.. it's been checked it's +/- .05 gram.. it's fine.. |
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| Tags |
| 383, balance, bobweight, dynamic, eagle, rotating assembly, stroker |
| Recent Engine posts with photos |
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