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Old 01-27-2005, 12:54 AM
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Balancer sbc

I pulled the balancer from my sbc yesterday using a two leg puller grabbing it on the outside. Was the first time I did this and only when I had it off I noticed that there is a rubber insert between inner and outer part. Might the outer rim have moved and be out of balance now?

Furthermore there is a groove in the balancer where the front main seal is. Does this mean it needs replacing when using a new seal or is this normal?

Martin
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:06 AM
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groove is bad

Replace it.
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Old 01-27-2005, 02:15 AM
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Do I recall correctly that 305 and 350 balancers are universally balanced and can be swapped between engines?

Martin

Holy sh** at the prices these things cost a new one is out of question. Is it worth searching for a used one or is it common that they are run in like mine?

Martin

Last edited by atlantis; 01-27-2005 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 01-27-2005, 02:16 AM
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balancers

Most balancers are interchangeable.
The 400 has a counterweight cannot be swapped on other sbs.
Older balancers do not have a center bolt and are pressed on.
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:58 AM
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Re: Balancer sbc

Quote:
Originally posted by atlantis
I pulled the balancer from my sbc yesterday using a two leg puller grabbing it on the outside. Was the first time I did this and only when I had it off I noticed that there is a rubber insert between inner and outer part. Might the outer rim have moved and be out of balance now?

Furthermore there is a groove in the balancer where the front main seal is. Does this mean it needs replacing when using a new seal or is this normal?

Martin
You may have destroyed the integrity of the balancer by pulling it off the way you did.

For this reason alone I would suggest that you replace it. Stock balancers are not very expensive. SFI approved ones are VERY expensive but are not necessary for mild engines.

As to the groove, there are very thin sleeves available that press on the area in question that will "repair" it.

Bottom line; replace the balancer with a new one. Install the new one with the correct installation tool. Do not use a hammer to beat it on.
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:14 AM
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I would not use a hammer under any circumstances, but I also do not have the tool. I figure this is basically a stud with a large washer and nut which screws in the crank and pulls the balancer on. Right?

Martin
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by atlantis
I would not use a hammer under any circumstances, but I also do not have the tool. I figure this is basically a stud with a large washer and nut which screws in the crank and pulls the balancer on. Right?

Martin
There is also a thrust bearing between the nut and the balancer. Some chain type auto parts stores (Advance Auto) will loan the tool if you don't wish to purchase one.
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Old 01-27-2005, 05:05 AM
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The crank snout is a fine thread. Best to get the correct tool.A-Zone rents em cheap. If you do not rent the tool,get a bolt of the same thread as the crank bolt,only about 1.5" longer.DO NOT use the crank bolt as a tool to pull the balancer on,you risk pulling the threads from the crank.The stock balancers use an elastomer ring between the two pieces.Over time heat and normal engine harmonics will destroy the bond,resulting in slippage of outer ring,which in effect can give bad reading when attempting to adjust your timing. You can get a new one for a fair price. Do not buy a used one,you are buying what you already have,an old worn out balancer. Get the new one,it is the best route to take. If you do get the new one,get the tool to install it.New balancer will pull on tighter than an old wore out balancer.
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Old 01-27-2005, 06:55 AM
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You messed up thats not a good way to take the damper off.

There is a few different dampers and almost as many front covers to go with each one.


8" with 10 degree offset keyway,
6 3/4" with zero degree offset,
6 3/4" with 10 degree offset,
6 3/4" with 40 degree offset,
6" with 10 degree offset,
a 400 damper with counterweight,
8" for 1996 newer efi engines,
6 3/4" for 1996 newer efi engines.
And probably a couple others too.

Which one do you have?


I suppose over there youre going to have a hard time finding parts. You can call these guys they will fix you right up.

http://www.pioneerautoinc.com/index.htm
http://www.pioneerautoinc.com/catalogs.htm
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:14 AM
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The BS is only you always find out afterwards... And I have never had to use any other puller than a leg puller but for wheels.

How do I find out which balancer i have? First I will measure the diameter but if its a 6 3/4 how do I find out about the offset? And is it necessary to replace with same type or are certain interchangeable?

Yes, finding parts at a good price isn't easy here. And forget about hiring tools.

Martin
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Old 01-27-2005, 08:28 AM
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Ok theres lots of ways to figure it out hope I dont make it more complicated than it needs to be. Youll go nuts trying to time the engine if the cover & damper arent a match.

Was the engine ever messed with where it might have had a 6 3/4" installed with an a front cover made for a 8" one? If the timing tab ran really close to edge of damper then I assume the diameter is correct for the cover youre running.



TIMING COVERS
The 40 degree offset timing cover has the timing tab almost right above the crank snout.
If its made for a 10 degree offset damper the timing tab will be it will be to the right as your looking at engine.
Very small chance that you have a zero degree offset damper the timing tab has letter A and 0 stamped on it instead of numbers.



DAMPERS
From the front side place a ruler onto damper aligned with timing mark and through center:

zero degree damper has the timing mark directly in line with keyway slot.

10 degree damper has ruler about even with left edge of keyway slot.

40 degree damper has ruler about 1/2" away from left side of keyway.

Also the 96 & newer dampers could be easily mixed up with an earlier 10 degree offset one. The way to tell them apart is by measuring the overall width.

1995 & older = 2 3/8"
1996 & newer = 2 1/4"

If you had them all side by side its really obvious.



ALL ASSEMBLED
With everthing put back together the depth of crank snout in damper should be 1".

Last edited by Greg Latvala; 01-27-2005 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:32 PM
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Thanks for the info, I obviously have a 40 degree. When I removed the timing chain cover I found the front main seal was hard as a rock therefore the groove in the balancer. And I see further trouble approaching: There is considerable slack in the timing chain. Oh well... Almost heard it scream "replace me".

Martin
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Old 01-28-2005, 05:06 PM
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While Greg's information on all the different SBC balancers is correct, the reality is that forgetting for the moment all the various original equipment balancers and only looking at the aftermarket ones, you will find that the majority of SBC aftermarket dampers are either 8" or 6-3/4" and all have the TDC mark in the same place. Everyone uses the '69 and later TDC position and if this doesn't suit the timing tab you have, you just get one of those inexpensive bolt-on tabs that you can probably even get in Switzerland. Or order one from Summit.

You can use either the 8" or 6-3/4" diameter damper on any small block Chevy. The larger ones were generally used on higher horsepower engines and the smaller ones on smaller displacement, lower hp engines. The larger diameter damper has a heavier inertia ring and does a better job of damping out the harmonics of an engine.

You can install a new damper with a bolt and washer. However the bolt needs to be longer than the stock bolt that holds the damper on the crank or, as somebody else pointed out, you might strip the threads in the crank. Once you have the damper started you can then switch to the shorter stock bolt and finish pulling it on as long as you can get 10 to 14 mm of thread engagement. Finish torque the bolt to 60 pound feet.

Here is an excerpt from the instructions that come with Professional Products' aftermarket dampers:

Note: Small block Chevy engines have used three different timing pointer locations. Pre '69 engines have the TDC mark 2 to the left of the keyway centerline. The '69 and later dampers have the TDC mark 10 to the left of the keyway centerline. All of our SB Chevy dampers, as well as all other aftermarket dampers, use the later TDC position. If you have a pre '69 vehicle you can use one of the aftermarket bolt-on timing pointers to align correctly with the timing marks on our dampers. Use GM bolt-on pointer 3991435 (plain) or 12342000 (chrome) for our 6" and 6-3/4" dampers, and GM pointer 3991436 (plain) or 12342011 (chrome) with our 8" dampers. Big block Chevys with our 8" damper can use bolt-on GM pointer 3992073 (plain) or 12342001 (chrome). Other aftermarket companies also make special timing pointers suitable for use with our dampers. The third timing pointer location is on 1984 -'95 engines and is at the 12 o'clock position on the damper. Our #80000 and #90000 6-3/4" dampers have a mark for this position.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-13-2005, 08:57 PM
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If you need a good cheap stock-type 8" SBC balancer with 10* timing mark, check Ebay for a ZZ4 take-off unit. They usually run ~$50, & they're already degreed.
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:09 AM
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Nice, this thread is just what I was looking for, I was wanting to put a msd tape on my balancer, but would like a balancer that has it scribed into it in all reality.

Is that ZZ4 balancer easy to read the way their scribed?

TTT
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