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Old 07-18-2008, 08:53 PM
BobbyG-39's Avatar
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Ball joints for MII?

I know I asked this last year, and followed your advice, but got no luck. Here's the story: My truck has an aftermarket tubular MII front end ( I didn't put it in- bought it that way- know how you feel Deuce )

Wheels move back at forth at 12 and 6 pos on both sides, so I want to have new ball joints put in. Trouble is, each shop I call say they would have no idea what ball joints would go in there unless I know the manuf of the front end. What???? I can't imagine they are so unique if this is a typical hot rod setup....

Also have a "bingunnnnnnnnn" every time I hit a bump after driving the car for a little while over our moon crater roads. Began after hitting 'bump' in freeway last year as mentioned before, now increasing in frequency. Can feel in floor as well as hear. Friend and I bounced the car when stationary, and could hear it, then feel it in the left coilspring. Not sure what the issue is there either but I want to address it before it gets worse. One shop told me spray white lithium grease up there. Seems like a bandaid not a repair. Also know bushings, rack all should be cleaned up and/or replaced.

In Metro Detroit, any shop you can recommend on western suburbs ( Dearborn-Ann Arbor- Livonia ) who knows what to do with a MII aftermarket setup would be great!

Pix are here:
Left side




Right side:



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Last edited by BobbyG-39; 07-18-2008 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:07 PM
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No photos shows up ...

Some of the aftermarket A arms have a bolt on type ball joint



Some have the other type ...



You might be better off just buying new tubular A arms with the ball joints already installed ...

Oh ... and I do not HATE the Mustang II stuff ...
But it sure causes a LOT of problems for a lot of folks ...
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:10 PM
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Thanks Deuce. Not sure why pix aren't showing up...

any case, mine are the second pic you posted- tubular. If I get new A arms, how can I be sure those fit as well?

Try these links:
Left:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/p...pictureid=6610
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...pictureid=6612

Right:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/p...pictureid=6615
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/p...pictureid=6614

Last edited by BobbyG-39; 07-18-2008 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:31 PM
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I see where you edited your post and now the photos show up.

I googled your stuff and had found where you had posted over on the Jalopy side ... and looked at your photos ...

I actually prefer the original A arms because they do have the ball joints that are easily replaceable and are available at most decent parts houses.



I also think they are stronger and better suited to rougher service.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:00 PM
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I think that some of those aftermarket A arms use a Mopar press in ball joint bur I don't know which one.

You say you are getting movement when you do the wiggle the wheel thing but can you see what is moving if you have your helper wiggle the wheel while you watch the suspension from under the car.

You could have slop in a ball joint, tie rod end or wheel bearing.

You are checking the upper ball joint the same way I would.
You can check the lower ball joint by jacking the car up with the jack as far out under the lower control arm (close to the wheel) as possible. Lift the tire a couple of inches off the shop floor and use a long bar to go in under the bottom of the tire from the side and lift the tire enough to take up the slack in the ball joint. Again have your helper do the moving while you watch for excess movement. If you want to get fancy you can measure the movement with a dial indicator to see exactly how much wear you have in the joint.
On the tie rod ends, you again want your helper to do the tire wiggle while you watch for movement between the spindle and tie rod end.

I'm in the group with Deuce in that I intend to run the factory MII control arms on my truck next time around.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:04 PM
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Many of the MII tubular a-arms use a Moog K772 or equivalent ball joint. It is a screw in type ball joint.....Some manufactures screw them in (properly) and some press them in (improperly). So, unless you know who made your setup there's no way to know what you have. I have heard that Heidts press them in....I have TCI and they are screwed in.....
Probably not much help, but there it is.....

Last edited by ceh383; 07-19-2008 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:11 PM
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Yep that is the Mopar ball joint that I was referring to http://www.jegs.com/i/Moog/719/K772/10002/-1

With the Moog pn you should be able to cross the number and pick them up at what ever parts house you frequent.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:02 PM
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Bobby G-39,
Didn't you post the same pictures some time last year and have it pointed out that there is a problem with the spring bucket or the a-arm or the a-arm mounts? I say this because the pictures look familiar. It looks as if the framing was welded incorrectly because the picture appears to show metal-to-metal contact between the outboard edge of the spring bucket and the ball joint socket on the a-arm, on the drivers side of the car. If this is the same picture, did you fix this issue yet?
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Old 07-19-2008, 04:46 AM
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Thank you

Thanks to everyone for the replies. This is the same problem as last year, I have just not been able to find a good shop yet in Detroit that understands what to look for and what to do with it. I have gotten everything in from " just spray some graphite in the upper seat" to "get a whole new front end".

I was just movng the wheel myself at 12 and 6, I did take it to an alignment shop here in Metro D and they did what you said, two guys one guy moving while another watched, and said I needed ball joints. My guess is I probably need that, or tie rods or rack, or maybe all three...

Heading to the racetrack today, but I will try to take some better pix of the ball joints later.

Thanks again to everyone.
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Old 07-19-2008, 05:43 AM
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Just an f.y.i., Speedway motors sells the wrench to unscrew the mopar ball joints and the ball joints themselves, the wrench is a pretty heavy duty piece, and it makes changing them easy enough to do at home!! the part # is-910-82160-$12.99!! the moog # that was listed earlier in this post should be the correct one for your application, available at any parts store, you could save the hassle and fix it yourself!!
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:17 AM
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It looks like you do have a bit of a clearance issue with the upper a-arms. What are your camber settings? If you can go with less -camber that would take care of it. If you are are already at 0 or slightly on the + side then longer lower a-arms would fix it, and that could take custom fabrication. Probably cheaper and easier than a new front end. I would worry about the clearance issue first, then the ball joints, cause one could cause the other......
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:49 PM
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Hi ceh, not sure what the camber settings are or how to check. I bough the car this way, it came off the transport truck and I began to drive it.

Here's what I noticed when taking better pics of the ball joints today, I noticed the upper coil seat is no longer hitting the A arm/ball joint bushing like in the first pics I showed.That's because I had the car jacked up. You can see in the pic from today how its lower.That is how the car actually sits. Wonder if this changes the diagnosis. Sorry I didn't notice that before.

However, whether its jacked up or not, the left upper seat is still closer to the A arm on the driver's side than the passenger side.



Today, Left:


Previous, Jacked Up, Left:







Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383
It looks like you do have a bit of a clearance issue with the upper a-arms. What are your camber settings? If you can go with less -camber that would take care of it. If you are are already at 0 or slightly on the + side then longer lower a-arms would fix it, and that could take custom fabrication. Probably cheaper and easier than a new front end. I would worry about the clearance issue first, then the ball joints, cause one could cause the other......

Last edited by BobbyG-39; 07-20-2008 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:55 PM
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Thanks- I checked it out! I will check the forums for info on how to change 'em- but just out of curiosity, is the car jacked up/wheels removed or do you do it with the car on level ground like a shock replacement?

Here are better balljoint pix:

Left Lower:


Left Upper:


Right Lower:


Right upper( sorry image is rotated 90 deg )


Quote:
Originally Posted by streetrodderbn
Just an f.y.i., Speedway motors sells the wrench to unscrew the mopar ball joints and the ball joints themselves, the wrench is a pretty heavy duty piece, and it makes changing them easy enough to do at home!! the part # is-910-82160-$12.99!! the moog # that was listed earlier in this post should be the correct one for your application, available at any parts store, you could save the hassle and fix it yourself!!
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Old 07-20-2008, 09:17 PM
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Camber is measured with a Camber/Caster gauge, but if you change the camber on your front end you will need to make sure the caster is correct also. Here is some info on Camber, Caster, and Toe. Turn plates are a great help with caster settings. The tools can be expensive, but if you plan on doing your own front end work they're worth it. If you know some circle racers you may be able to borrow them.....If not there's always the alignment shop.....
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Old 07-21-2008, 08:34 PM
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Thanks for the info ceh!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383
Camber is measured with a Camber/Caster gauge, but if you change the camber on your front end you will need to make sure the caster is correct also. Here is some info on Camber, Caster, and Toe. Turn plates are a great help with caster settings. The tools can be expensive, but if you plan on doing your own front end work they're worth it. If you know some circle racers you may be able to borrow them.....If not there's always the alignment shop.....
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