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Old 11-01-2006, 08:07 AM
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Bare Fiberglass

Ive got a 66 Corvette coupe to paint soon and Im not sure how to go about preping it. Its coming to me completly stripped of all paint, chrome and interior. I was thinking that I would put a coat of epoxy primer, 3 coats of 2k sanding primer then block and seal before paint. Is sealing it with a 1k primer sealer a bad idea? And what grit should I finish the block sanding? I was thinking 600 wet. I feel that I already know but I would hate to mess this one up because I didnt ask. Thanks in advance. Trevor.

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Old 11-01-2006, 08:30 AM
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A painter worst nightmare is a vette coming already stripped.
Seen many done over because home work was not done to find out how it was stripped and if it was neutralized properly or if some yahoo decided to wash the body with lacquer thinner.

Correct now or later but it must be corrected.

Then start with epoxy and forget any 1K product whatsoever.
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:10 PM
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To make sure it accepts the primer/paint correctly, what do you recommend in the case it wasn't stripped/neutralized correctly?
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Old 11-02-2006, 04:46 AM
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If I were doing it on a 53-80 I would mix up a bucket of warm water with a dish soap that does not have any hand softening lotion in it and scrub the body with a Grey scuff pad and rinse real good at least twice.
I would then pull out in sun everyday for a week.
I would then wash with a wax and grease remover real good and then let set a day before I started any work.
The above is perhaps overkill but better safe then sorry.

Anything newer than and 80 I would tell the guy to do it himself.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:41 AM
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that scares me to death. if it was chem stripped you have a problem. do as barry advises but i would go a step further . after you have cleaned it good i would sand with 180 wet and soap. any chemstrip left will haunt you later. myself i would send him packing. if there are any problems you can bet it will be your fault not his. i no longer take in jobs that homer and jefro have started. i use nothing but spi epoxy on my vette work. no 2k primer at all. good luck with it.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
I would then pull out in sun everyday for a week.

That would take about 37 years in Syracuse. We haven't seen the sun for more than 20 minutes since '03.
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beenaway2long
That would take about 37 years in Syracuse. We haven't seen the sun for more than 20 minutes since '03.
================================================== =====

I think I would be watching for a sale on suitcases and airplane tickets!

Really, we just want the UV's and air flow, so it would not be that bad.

From the always sunny city of Vegas.
Barry
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:14 AM
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I did a 81 Vette last year... I had to strip off the existing finish... I did that with 80Grit... took forever but brought it right down to the gel coat/glass. I did my filler work/glass work where needed and epoxy primed.. blocked.. re-prime with a filler primer and blocked again. Blocked down with 800G before paint and then base/clear (no sealer)

Silver/black with candy pin aound the black stripes.
No problems yet!
Hope that helps... Scott~

Iv'e heard of nightmare's with glass but not sure why?

Some hoods that I've done after being in the sun for awhile esp. black you tend to see the glass under them. They never got to be cured very long before paint.. that might be some of the cause.. but we just block them back down and re-base & Clear and that seems to cure it for good.
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:37 PM
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fiberglass never stops curing. it will be white powder again someday. thats a reason to epoxy inside and out.
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:18 AM
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So the Vette came in last night and he did not strip it like I thought he was going to. Do I use the fiberglass stripper and take the chance or should I just sand all the paint off. Im thinking a 8" mud hog with 35 grit would make short work of the paint. Any other ideas?
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:48 AM
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if you hit any glass with that thing your gonna own it the only safe way is to have it blasted by someone who knows what to do or wet sand it down with 80. da's ,grinders and such have no place in the vette world. you can use a da but you better be dang good with it. body lines disappear in a blink. type 6 acrylic is a soft plastic for blasting glass. i try to stop at factory paint. not much of it on there and it's easy to sand off. remember if this is a resto you can not damage the surface and come back and repair. no blocks when sanding. it must be done by hand so the crapy body waves remain. early vette bodies were junk. some looked ok others looked like monday builds.
if you chemstrip do not let it go past the orig color !
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:53 AM
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http://www.streetrodding.com/sr/inde...&topicid=16828

Listen to Shine he has been restoring Vettes for 30 years, I was not born when he started!
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:02 AM
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now wait a minute ! i ain't that damn old but i have danced with a lot of vettes. i learned most of it the hard way. just go easy with the glass. thats why it cost more to have one done. you have to go slow and be careful.make damn sure what the customer wants before you start. some throw fits over the waves and stuff. make them sign an estimate stating what is to be done. otherwise you'll be repainting it.
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
================================================== =====

I think I would be watching for a sale on suitcases and airplane tickets!

Really, we just want the UV's and air flow, so it would not be that bad.

From the always sunny city of Vegas.
Barry

Barry, you know....If I didn't like ya, I sure would HATE YA !! Sunshine, Vegas, Sema show......<where's that green with envy smilie?>

Did I tell you its SNOWING here right now?? 3-7" per the weather report last night.
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:35 AM
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BarryK -

Quote:
If I were doing it on a 53-80 I would mix up a bucket of warm water with a dish soap that does not have any hand softening lotion in it and scrub the body with a Grey scuff pad and rinse real good at least twice.
Does DAWN fit into that category or is there one in particular that you would be willing to recommend?

texastomeh
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