OK, so I'm doing some body mods on my Astro, amd I have some places that are down to the bare metal. They need a bit of filler so what should I do. I don't want to put the filler directly over the metal becasue I'm afraid of rust comeing through it (it sat for a few days, so I know theres a bit of rust in there).
So what should I put over the bare metal before applying the filler.
phospating acid is normally called MetalPrep or other brand names so yes, it is refered to in the aforementioned submissions.
Yes fibreglass fillers are waterproof and yes us the primer sealer after completion of bodywork
Thanks for the re-affirmation! Its nice to have with all the time, effort and bucks that go into the machine of your choice. I have a friend who mixes different muds together to get a smooth surface. Would that not ruin the effects of a fiberglass filler? Others probably not, eh.
:thumbup:
"Fiberglass fillers" are NOT waterproof. They may and I mean MAY be water "resistant" but they are certainly not "water proof". I called Evercoat tech after this was brought up on another forum a few years ago. I was told it was "water proof" ONLY after it was primed and painted! I laughed and said, "Cardboard is waterproof if it is coated with primer and paint!". All the fiberglass reinforced fillers like "Everglass", "Kitty hair" and the like have talc in them, just like "regular" filler in fact, they have MORE. Talc absorbs moisture. So, no, they are NOT waterproof.
Wow. How about Duraglass? Sure has a lot of substance to it in comparison. I'm still going to 'primer seal' everything anyway. Now here's a question: what about down at the lowest edge, where, let's say the BCCC ends and the wheel well starts with maybe undercoat? Does this edge become a weak link to moisture blockage? Any suggestions here?:welcome:
I have never checked the MSDS for Duraglass but I suspect you would find simlar ingredients including talc. USC Duraglass and the Evercoat products I mentioned are extremely similar products.
As far as the bottom of the quarters or around the lip of the wheel well, prime and paint it. Simply get around the edge with properly applied primer, paint and clear. That is a HUGE pet peeve of mine, having edges bare! ARRRRRRGGG I hate that.
I have never checked the MSDS for Duraglass but I suspect you would find simlar ingredients including talc. USC Duraglass and the Evercoat products I mentioned are extremely similar products.
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Exactly right!
Everyone of these products are almost identical and not water proof, including All-metal and Alumifil all polyesters with lots-o-talc.
By the way the white and blue hardener you use with this stuff is the EXACTLT the same thing as your body filler hardener with a dye in it.
All peroxide filler hardener's are made by catalyst systems in Ohio.
Oh, you will hear how ours has 1 or 2% more peroxide in it,
Yep! Right!
Heck Brian you dont need the MSDS, look on the can!
A few years ago there was a fight on the chevelle site about Duraglass being water proof.
One thing I learned as a small child, you dont pick fights you cant win.
So the next day I bought a can of Duraglass, took a pic of the label and posted it on chevelles. Low and behold TALC is the MAIN active ingredient. Score one for Eric
Apologies folks, agreed; fibreglass fillers are not waterproof, i was more refering towards the epoxy fibreglass repair kits such as used with the fibre matting and 2 pot resins for repairing fibreglass car bodies and boats- i think these are waterproof as i have filled some holes in hulls without topcoating them immediately before they went back in the water and didn't have any probs. For steel panel work i normally use standard body filler which definitely ain't waterproof and becuase we have a wet climate here i often put a coat of laquer over the primer if the area is not to be painted straight away to keep the repair dry.
I hadn't gone back and read this whole thread again till now.
For me, it's got way to many tangents and other topics twisted into it.
Here's my answer for a temporary coating on a new rust free bare steel panel part:
I clean it with brake cleaner to remove the anti-oxidation oil coating, scrub it with a red scotch brite pad to remove any rust scale then spray it with a heavy coat of Duplicolor (green) Self Etching Primer from the local autoparts store.
That works for 3 months+ in Florida.
The etch primer is easy to sand off, it's compatible with epoxy/filler/etc.
Got rust, you have to absolutely remove it to use etch primer alone for 3 months storage.
I've had the same problem too. Instead of rinsing with water, I've wiped the metal down with metal cleaner like Prepsol. The idea of painting over metal that has flash rusted seems counter intuitive to me.
Eastwoods sells this really inexpensive spot snad blaster. It is great for getting those little pits and areas where rust settles. it only cost around $20 for it and is well worth it.
When you have a small area with rust pits, you can use a small broken drill bit in your drill motor. Held at an angle, it will carve out rus. Much cleaner than sand blasting.
John, cool tip- I'll have to give that a try. There always seems to be a few I need to go after with a spot blaster or a small burr bit, never though about using a broken drill bit. interesting.
I have just sprayed useing etch,I got from Eastwood, now do I want to fill first then primer or what??. You know it alls got me confused, It's easy to do.
I have a acrylic primer,called dura bond. Whats your scope on that product?? :sweat:
Hey guys the way i was taught when i did my time as a panel beater was to apply the filler on the bare metal then prime or primerfiller otherwise the filler would only be stickin to the primer and not actually bond to the surfase properly and thats the way ive been doin it for 16/17 years and never had a prob and have seen blokes put it over primer and fall out taking the primer with it just leaving a clean surfase behid caus eit didnt bond properly but anyway as they say each to there own have a good one all
I have just sprayed useing etch,I got from Eastwood, now do I want to fill first then primer or what??. You know it alls got me confused, It's easy to do.
I have a acrylic primer,called dura bond. Whats your scope on that product?? :sweat:
Don't put any polyester fillers over etch primer, sand the etch primer off of the areas that need filler work and apply your filler to bare metal. Or strip off all of that etch primer and applt two coats of epoxy primer followed by polyester filler where needed. Stay away from any 1K acrylic primer surfacers, use urethane or polyester surfacers for best results. JMO
Doing some searching and reading and found this old thread. Is this still true today...the 7 day open coat as standard?
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