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Old 04-29-2009, 05:27 PM
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bare metal bed

few quick questions


just started a bed on a van and i want this to be very clean so...
i paint strippered the whole bed ... came out great.. took a flap disc over the rust so its all removed just need to wash it all down with soapy water THEN


my 2 local paint suppliers in scotland dont do epoxy primer ....they say use etch
but i want to go with epoxy going to order some spi and see if they will ship


so whats the prepping for this ? 80 grit the bare metal the use wax/panel wipe ..apply epoxy ---


how long do i leave it before going on with 2k primer ?


or can i just do wet to wet with colour on epoxy?


many thanks

tommy

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Old 04-29-2009, 11:14 PM
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O.k.This is the way I do it of all the ways I've tried in35 yrs this is the best way to garunteea long lasting quality job:Get A red scuff pad,a quart of ospho (OSOHO)only. scrub in the ospho and watch it clean the metal as you go.keep everything wet,wnen you get about 3'x3' ,wipe the exess with shop towels, and continue.wnen your done rewipe again ,let it sit,the metal is now etched and since you scrubbed it in its much better than etching primer.let dri 24hrs scuff with 320 dry paper NEVER use water on bare metal soapy or not,trust me you"ll regret it.teres no hurry to prime since the metal wont start rusting when treated this way when your done scuffing use a wax and grease remover (SPI has the best deal)use a tack rag then epoxyprime (again SPI has the best deal)3-4 good coats and dry sand with 400 paint,unless you have grinding marks,shoulda used chemical stripper.This is how I do it on every car I strip it works best
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:42 AM
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a quart of ospho (OSOHO)only



WHAT THE HELL IS THAT STUFF YOU MENTIONED?? LOL
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Old 04-30-2009, 02:09 AM
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are you kidding?its been around for years,it phos,man now I gotta get the dictionary,phosphoric acid basicly, same stuff in etching primer its also great on disolving surface rust and cleaning up heavy rust with a wire wheel when dry its like a transparent primer that protects metal from moisture till you prime But I use it to etch bare metal on every job I do. Great stuff !!! so is SPI !!!
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Old 04-30-2009, 05:18 PM
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im in scotland lol


were can i get stuff like this

will they sell it over the counter?


thanks for the advice by the way
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Old 04-30-2009, 05:38 PM
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you dont have an accent,......I'm a scott too got the red hair to prove it. everyone tinks me a bloody tater head magine dat?...around here you can get it at the local paint supply store but if you can google it,mabee...?let me know.btw they say Nessie's dead is it true or they just sayin it to keep the yanks away n give the lass some peace in her old age? anything you need scotty jest ask Mike O.
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:39 PM
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I would like to offer a different opinion on the use of water to rinse bare metal. While Ospho (a product not specifically made for auto refinishing) is designed to remain on the panel without rinsing, most makers of automotive metal etching products, for example PPG with their DX series cleaners, explicitly state that the products should be rinsed with water until the water "sheets" and does not bead. Sheeting indicates that the metal is clean enough to prime. In my opinion, improper use of acid metal treatment chemicals is a major cause of finish failure. In fact, the tech sheet for the SPI epoxy mentioned previously in this thread recommends AGAINST the use of any type of acid etching products prior to its application in large, bold letters!
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Old 05-01-2009, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
I would like to offer a different opinion on the use of water to rinse bare metal. While Ospho (a product not specifically made for auto refinishing) is designed to remain on the panel without rinsing, most makers of automotive metal etching products, for example PPG with their DX series cleaners, explicitly state that the products should be rinsed with water until the water "sheets" and does not bead. Sheeting indicates that the metal is clean enough to prime. In my opinion, improper use of acid metal treatment chemicals is a major cause of finish failure. In fact, the tech sheet for the SPI epoxy mentioned previously in this thread recommends AGAINST the use of any type of acid etching products prior to its application in large, bold letters!
always read directions before useing ANY unfamiliar product(even plastic forks)way to many people die each year using them. Ospho ,IS however made for metal DONT USE ON MPVs, your cars ARE made of metal in Scottland arent they? dont worry what barryk (owner of SPI and source of tech sheet)said back then ,he also said he didnt use it.and he dosent know for sure (for what thats worth).he doesnt recomend using dupont Fulthane ether(my next suggestion) it only cost i30.00 a gal and will last for yrs ahd years He does recomend 800.00 a gal single stage urathane paint though so if your the kind of man that follows and cant think for yourself and have unlimited amounts of cash (like the government)and dont mind being laughed at(like our government)then spend a years worth of grocery money......If you'd like the best value for your money, fairly intelligent,have kids or a crappy job that dont give 20 million dollar bonuses or if you just live in the real world always ask the person giving you advice their credentials and dont forget to ask if they've used the product they are talking about then get a third opinion and so on but make up your own mind NEVER take any one opinion as THE one espesicialy from anyone from THIS country.
read the ingrediants of most metal conditioners alcohol /water ,then ,what happens when your van gets water in it like the seams that it hides in? Like I said, I use this so do many many Independent body and paint shops.Also I live in georgia where rust is a magor concern.Heres some pics of an 11 year old paint job on the shop truck,its dirty but still.........it was striped etched primed just like i told you,good luck to ya scotty
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 05-01-2009 at 03:18 AM.
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