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Bare metal prep

15K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  starquest 
#1 ·
I have been reading previous threads on priming, filling, and bare metal prep. But the more I read the more confused I get. Some say use a wash primer and some don’t. Some say use an etch primer and some don’t. Do you apply filler directly to bare metal or over epoxy primer? Here is my situation. I have a ’67 Chevelle that has patches of surface rust. I plan to take the whole car to bare metal. Do I need to treat the metal and if so, with what and how? Will an epoxy primer take place of metal treatment? What I need to know is, What is the step by step process for taking the car from bare metal to the application of a high build primer?

This might be a stupid question.
I have read that a lot of people use “DP primer.” Is this an epoxy primer and what does DP stand for?

I have done bodywork before and painted a few trucks but I am new to complete stripping. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Here is the way with epoxy
and some one else can give way with Acid etch so you can decide how you want to do it.

Prepping

Metal or Aluminum must be clean of all rust and oils and any films. Never clean metal with lacquer thinner or reducers of any kind. Raw metal of any type is always cleaned best with a waterborne wax and grease remover such as ---- part # ----. This is most important for prepping aluminum. Sand with 80 da paper or coarser ONLY.



Spraying:

Spray one wet coat for normal applications. For special projects such as restorations or fiberglass and SMC, Spray one coat and let it flash about 10 minutes at 70° degrees or higher. Then spray second coat for maximum corrosion protection. If one coat of epoxy is used wait 30 minutes before painting. With two coats of epoxy wait 60 minutes to paint. This epoxy does not need to be sanded if painted over within 7 days. Always paint or primer over the epoxy within 7 days. After 7 days the epoxy should be sanded and re-coated with epoxy for best adhesion.
 
#5 ·
Yes, I would hit it with 80, no matter what.
I looked at a Dupont job a few weeks ago in FL where the painter sanded a 69 bird with 80 on one side and helper was using 180 on the other. # weeks later the 180 side epoxy could be scraped off.
Manufacturers had been saying 80-180 But I can tell you two manufacturers that is changing that to 80 grit only.
The 180 side bare metal looked buffed after the epoxy was scraped off. Dupont makes a good epoxy.
 
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