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Old 05-05-2005, 06:05 PM
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From bare rusty metal to finished product steps

I read the faq and I used it for my last project. Last time I used a ppg epoxy primer and found out how hard it is to sand and then I sprayed that with an omni single stage paint. Worked fine but sanding was a PIA.

This one has even more rust than the last so sealing it in is pretty important - thinking an epoxy primer again. This time I want to coat that with a good SANDABLE primer (I think?). Also it's got some dents so what kind of filler do I get that I can put over the sandable primer? Also thinking I will try a BC/CC this time, but being the rookie painter I hate to invest a ton, also this is an off road toy - hopefully a daily driver as well but it's gonna get scratched and dented. I hope to repair dents and buff out scratches so a few coats of clear.

Any reason I shouldn't go with the omni line again? My local paint place carries dupont, ppg, and other lines (pretty much everything).

So I gotta make this (this pic is actually BEFORE sitting out all winter with bare metal!)



look like this (well, colorwise that is! 2003 Mach 1 azure blue)



and on a new car here



TIA!!!

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Old 05-05-2005, 08:10 PM
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I really like the 800 Scouts, what other plans do you have for it?
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:32 PM
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Your best bet would be to strip it down, remove the rust and apply your epoxy. Then do your filler work, apply two more coats of epoxy then a urethane surfacer. If you're staying with the Omni line the SV urethane surfacer is a fine product. You don't really want to do any heavy filler work over the urethane surfacer, thin glaze coats work alright though.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG
I really like the 800 Scouts, what other plans do you have for it?

It's an 80, 800's didn't have fold down windshields

Kid calling, I'll write more - basically it's getting this ones gear



# Engine/Cooling/Exhaust/Fuel System - HO 302 w/Northern aluminum radiator and spal electric fan, modified mustang headers, mustang in-tank fuel pump in the toy EFI tank Engine has Saginaw steering pump, 180 amp 3G alternator, BBK intake, FlowKooler hi-flow water pump, stainless rad hoses, Competition Cams Timing set, ARP bolts and studs, etc..
# Drivetrain/Clutch - NP435/dual 23 spline toy tcases, TLC slave & MC
# Suspension - front: wagoneer springs and 9012's, rear: stock wagoneers and 5012's
# Axles/Brakes - Front HP HD 44 w/6 lug outers and lock right, Rear disk 35 spline moser shafted HD D60
# Interior - custom dash with autometer gauges.
# Steering - hi-steer with GM stuff and toy IFS box
# Tires - 37x12.5 MTR's on 15x10 mags

I'm gonna try to keep the scout as stock looking as possible though, low backs and hopefully the dash too but we'll see.

Last edited by BrandonMiller; 05-05-2005 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 05-06-2005, 08:26 AM
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RE: 66 Stang in picture.

Hey guy heres a better picture of the 66 you have in the picture, it shows the color a lot better.
This was first day after buffed, put together and washed.

Of all the pictures taken of this car, this is my favorite.
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Last edited by BarryK; 05-06-2005 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:09 AM
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very nice! I like the color even more now

thanks!

what kind of paint was used, do you happen to know?
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:29 AM
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The epoxy, 2K primer and Clears were SPI.

Basecoat used inside car and underside was Debeers and outside basecoat was Spies and some parts Lesonal used to cut in.
All the bases were dead nuts in color, only reason different bases used is they were donated.
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:54 AM
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Barry's SPI epoxy is first rate...good stuff

Vince
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:08 AM
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I'm a noobie to painting, never even heard of those. Isn't spies somehow related to dupont or something? I'll be relying on my local paint shop for the recomendation most likely - but I'll be staying on the cheaper side
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:19 AM
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Thanks Vince!
that means alot coming from you.
Barry
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Old 05-06-2005, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonMiller
I'm a noobie to painting, never even heard of those. Isn't spies somehow related to dupont or something? I'll be relying on my local paint shop for the recomendation most likely - but I'll be staying on the cheaper side
***************************************

Spies and Standox (same thing) is now owned by Dupont.
Its their premium price line, like arm and leg and first born.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:17 PM
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so what do you get for giving arm n leg vs hmm ok nothing coming to mind (say nason since were talking dupont) for that color..

In other words why would I - rookie painter - pay more than the nason ?
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:50 PM
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Of the three brands used all gray was covered with two coats.
Big difference will be you may need 3-4 with a Nason.
and it will be slower dry.

For what your doing i say go for the nason grade type so if you mess up and need more paint you have not gave away your first born and loaned your wife out for the night and won't feel as bad about it.

You know the color so shop, nason, Limco, omni, western basecoats.
See what the difference is on the prices.
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Old 05-06-2005, 07:36 PM
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Barry IS word man.
He KNOW'S this stuff and you can take what he say's to the BANK.

My question is this.

Your obviously building a "beater" of sorts so WHY go to ALL the trouble to give it a flawless (expensive) paint job???

I have a 73 Scout and a bc/cc would be the LAST thing I'd put on it as it see's MOST of it's time IN THE WOOD'S and getting beat and banged on and such, I'd NOT even contemplate a "good" paint job. A deicent Single Stage would be the BEST I'd put on IT.
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:12 PM
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I drove that yota for over 15 years many many times through every spot on the rubicon, fordyce, barrett, canada trails, colorado trails, johnson valley (hammers) etc etc etc..

And it still took a nice wax to it's last day (other than those doors I never finished). You put too much into a rig to not have it look good and enjoy it. Besides, it's all practice for this one..




Last edited by BrandonMiller; 05-06-2005 at 09:58 PM.
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