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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:11 AM
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Being as I have nothing to compare this too as its custom, does anyone have any idea what I may be able to get out of it?

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:17 AM
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I agree with cobalt:

A couple of things to consider: You can swap your rockers But be careful of valve clearance! those 1.5s may be on the intakes because of needed valve clearance pistons may have been fly cut on exhaust!! As for swapping Im one that puts 1.5s on the intake and 1.6s on the exhaust because the exhaust valves are smaller and need the lift (but thats my way not everyone's!) But to each his own The other thing to take into consideration is the lift at the valve ,If the seats and valves were cut at a 45 degree initially and are now cut at 30 degree's it changes lift at the valve about 20% ( the amount of material removed between valve and seat) If my memory serves me right LOL. Thats only an example I cant remember the formula for the exact lift change %age but I'll look it up in my paperwork and post the formula! your blue print if you have one should have that info. You need to know if that cam is installed advanced or retarded and how much you may want to advance it (street friendly).


Jester

The carb value To some as a collectors piece maybe a thousand< as a used carb of BG fame for a drag racer I would guess about the same but in this economy dont know! Dont get ripped off If the carb looks clean and hasnt been abused put it in our classifieds at a price or trade Im sure no members would rip you off!LOL

Last edited by painted jester; 09-24-2012 at 09:32 AM.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
the exhaust valves are smaller and need the lift (but thats my way not everyone's!)

If the seats and valves were cut at a 45 degree initially and are now cut at 30 degree's it changes lift at the valve about 20% ( the amount of material removed between valve and seat)

The carb value To some as a collectors piece maybe a thousand< as a used carb of BG fame for a drag racer I would guess about the same but in this economy dont know! Dont get ripped off If the carb looks clean and hasnt been abused put it in our classifieds at a price or trade Im sure no members would rip you off!LOL
Bad carb advice is one thing, but all of this? It's beyond absurd.


To the OP, when properly tuned you'll be able to use the same carb for street driving and at the drag strip- the only adjustments you'll need to make are for air denisty and possibly humidity.

The exhaust valve NEVER needs more lift "because its smaller" and the lift is NOT changed by the seat angle AT ALL.

As for the value of the used BG carb, its very market dependant but you could probably sell it for $250, maybe $400 if it was properly cleaned and rebuilt it carries little "historical value" and needs to be compared to a used holley HP carb (the closest current production equivalent).
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 10:45 AM
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Sorry it took so long but this is all I could find right now! I didn't want to cut my book up so printed and then scanned and posted I hope its legible!

This is an old trick most people don't know about that we old fogies learned years ago and I guess have forgot but IF you had any engineering or were good in high school you can see the logic unless they have changed physics LOL

Jester



http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...34850461704617

If you click on it it will enlarge a couple of times I jus tried and its very clear
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Last edited by painted jester; 09-24-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 10:49 AM
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ap72 what you are saying is basically correct for a street car.If the car is tuned(example only) for a fuel /air ratio of 13:1 at W.O.T. and the engine keeps this ratio all the way through the rpm range then that car will be fun to drive and will perform the same at the track,just dial an et and have fun.
If you want to go faster a track tune will be 12:1 all the way through the rpm range and it will go quicker.If you decide that at the track you are a true racer and you uncork your exhaust system,then that tune needs to be 12:1 with open exhaust and that will go quicker than the above 2 tunes.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:06 AM
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The carb value To some as a collectors piece maybe a thousand< as a used carb of BG fame for a drag racer I would guess about the same but in this economy dont know! Dont get ripped off If the carb looks clean and hasnt been abused put it in our classifieds at a price or trade Im sure no members would rip you off!LOL
Lets hope this is the case!! I would be happy just getting enough for a nice 650 double pumper. May list it on my local CL first before i try ebay and the like
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:30 AM
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Racingjunk.com is a good place to sell they have a section for strictly racing parts. maybe someone on here would private message you that read this thread. I went to a swap meet yesterday and saw old speed equipment that sold for a few bucks in the 40s 50s & 60s selling for ungodly amounts of money that all of us older guys had years ago just laying around like a Mc Girk intake or an obsolete carb we tossed out. I mentioned collectors might pay more or racers because Barry Grant has a big name and one day that carb might be worth a lot or maybe a guy who just wants it for the reason to show it off because of the decal, a lot of people only know of Barry Grant as the originator of Demon! They never knew he started as a racer and skilled tradesmen that used to build some of the best Holleys out there !!

Jester
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
I agree with cobalt:

A couple of things to consider: You can swap your rockers But be careful of valve clearance! those 1.5s may be on the intakes because of needed valve clearance pistons may have been fly cut on exhaust!! As for swapping Im one that puts 1.5s on the intake and 1.6s on the exhaust because the exhaust valves are smaller and need the lift (but thats my way not everyone's!) But to each his own The other thing to take into consideration is the lift at the valve ,If the seats and valves were cut at a 45 degree initially and are now cut at 30 degree's it changes lift at the valve about 20% ( the amount of material removed between valve and seat) If my memory serves me right LOL. Thats only an example I cant remember the formula for the exact lift change %age but I'll look it up in my paperwork and post the formula! your blue print if you have one should have that info. You need to know if that cam is installed advanced or retarded and how much you may want to advance it (street friendly).


Jester

The carb value To some as a collectors piece maybe a thousand< as a used carb of BG fame for a drag racer I would guess about the same but in this economy dont know! Dont get ripped off If the carb looks clean and hasnt been abused put it in our classifieds at a price or trade Im sure no members would rip you off!LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Racingjunk.com is a good place to sell they have a section for strictly racing parts. maybe someone on here would private message you that read this thread. I went to a swap meet yesterday and saw old speed equipment that sold for a few bucks in the 40s 50s & 60s selling for ungodly amounts of money that all of us older guys had years ago just laying around like a Mc Girk intake or an obsolete carb we tossed out. I mentioned collectors might pay more or racers because Barry Grant has a big name and one day that carb might be worth a lot or maybe a guy who just wants it for the reason to show it off because of the decal, a lot of people only know of Barry Grant as the originator of Demon! They never knew he started as a racer and skilled tradesmen that used to build some of the best Holleys out there !!

Jester
Thanks Jester! i will defiantly look into listing there. I also found that the plate on the front of the nova is an original 1969 Yenko USA 1 plate that is apparently worth quite a bit. Might as well list both!
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 01:15 PM
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That's cool ! about the plate, Ive got a yard stick from 1964 when I bought a Chevrolet from a dealer dated 1964 with the dealers name and all the Chevrolet car models printed on it in bold script! probably worth nothing LOL

Jester
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 01:47 PM
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Well i just got an email back from Barry Grant Carbs/ Demon from me inquiring about the carb last week. They said:

" When Barry Grant went bankrupt all the modified Holly Information was lost. We have no idea where that information went."

sooooo yeah, not much help there...
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 02:17 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Sorry it took so long but this is all I could find right now! I didn't want to cut my book up so printed and then scanned and posted I hope its legible!

This is an old trick most people don't know about that we old fogies learned years ago and I guess have forgot but IF you had any engineering or were good in high school you can see the logic unless they have changed physics LOL

Jester



http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...34850461704617

If you click on it it will enlarge a couple of times I jus tried and its very clear
valve lift isn't measured parallel to the seat but parallel to the stem.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 02:21 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Well i just got an email back from Barry Grant Carbs/ Demon from me inquiring about the carb last week. They said:

" When Barry Grant went bankrupt all the modified Holly Information was lost. We have no idea where that information went."

sooooo yeah, not much help there...
ask some very experienced carb shops or carb parts suppliers. I'm sure someone somewhere will be able to help you. As a last resort you can send it to a carb shop and they can figure it out.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 05:24 PM
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Looks like ill be trading for a 650 double pumper

Now since i have everyone here that knows my setup, should I use the current victor jr intake or swap for an edelbrock performer rpm ( already have one )?
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 05:37 PM
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I personally do not like dual planes as much as open plenums.The dual plane is very torquey and good on the street. The vic Jr and BG carb are a good match.try them both,and see what best suits you and your driving
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 06:14 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
ap72 what you are saying is basically correct for a street car.If the car is tuned(example only) for a fuel /air ratio of 13:1 at W.O.T. and the engine keeps this ratio all the way through the rpm range then that car will be fun to drive and will perform the same at the track,just dial an et and have fun.
If you want to go faster a track tune will be 12:1 all the way through the rpm range and it will go quicker.If you decide that at the track you are a true racer and you uncork your exhaust system,then that tune needs to be 12:1 with open exhaust and that will go quicker than the above 2 tunes.
Why would you tune your carb to have 12:1 at part throttle? A well tuned carb can have a perfect cruise AFR (15:1ish) AND a perfect WOT afr (12.8:1ish). Uncorking a restrictive exhaust can affect WOT AFR a little- but your problem there is the exhaust, not the carb. In most cases where you have a good exhaust the difference in AFR between open exhaust and connected is very little.
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