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Old 05-22-2005, 08:22 AM
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base coat clear coat

Am using this stuff for the first time and as I installed the clear I got a few saggs. My thinking is as follows if I sand them smooth can I re coat with clear and does any time passing effect my ability too apply the clear. I know this is dumb but I tried to buff the stuff after I sanded the clear and I seemed to get into the color pretty fast....and after sanding the clear smooth it does seem that the color coat while still intact, is very pale in appearance. Will the clear return the job to an acceptable appearance? And do I still buff it to get that dime store shine away? Should I do any sanding after the clear hardenes and then what

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Old 05-22-2005, 11:26 AM
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It sounds to me like you've sanded through the clear coat to the base. If that's the case you may have damaged the base color. In any event there is a time period for re-coating the clear (depending on what brand you used) but it's usually fairly short, a few hours or so. At this point your best bet is to scuff the entire panel and re-shoot the clear and see how it looks. If you've damaged the base color coat it will show up then and you'll know that you have to re-shoot base and re-clear the panel at that point. If the base wasn't damaged then you should be OK.

When shooting base coat / clear coat I find it's a good idea to spray at least three coats of clear. The more clear (to a point) the less chance of breaking through to the base coat when buffing or color sanding.

Good luck.
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Old 05-22-2005, 11:39 AM
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I am using DCU 2042 and the product information 'suggests' that after three days you need to sand before re-coat. I don't mind expermenting but this stuff is so expensive I know I will never use it again. Its as much or more work than lacquor and ten times more expensive. My only hope is that it will last ....the lacquor I am going over only lasted about four years. I guess if the color is consistent I can re coat clear on the whole thing. And how do I get ride of that cheap enamel shine? I have already jitter-bugged the entire car with 500 grit I am about ready to try the clear again
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Old 05-22-2005, 03:09 PM
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What method did you use when trying to cut and buff the first time?
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Old 05-22-2005, 06:55 PM
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I believe the product is called sure-cut ....grayish white in color can be thinned with water,,,..about like the old orange rubbing compond with power buffer and sheep skin pad.
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Old 05-22-2005, 07:12 PM
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in my opinion , i would blow some base over the sand through and then clear the whole panel. it will take very little effort and material to base it now. if you just clear it and realize that the sand through still shows , then you're going to have to let THAT clear dry. now you have to base it and put clear on it for a third time . it's up to you but i don't think it's worth the gamble considering it's so easy to just put some base on it now , clear it , and be done with it.
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Old 05-23-2005, 05:52 AM
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Current plan is too finish the light 500 grit sanding....hoping to get all the imperfections out but I feel hopless just now. Its so much work and I am getting so tired of it; I long for the days of loading on the Lacquor and polishing it until you get it nice. Got two doors and quarters to go and every time I walk around it I see something else it needs. But your suggestion is right in line with my plan...the sanding should ready the existing situation for the base touch-up and then the clear. Still I am not in love with the 'cheap' shine it gets and need some way to make it look less cheap. For as much as this stuff costs you would thing you could put it on with a brush and forget it!
Sure am sorry I used B/C C/C the Delstar went on so nice and sanded just right for a final clear on my last job....me thinks I will go back to that next time. And I think no more red....it costs the most of all the colors.
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:40 PM
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Hey Wally. I know exactly how you feel. Doing the same on my ride. Except I long for a simple SS paint. It lasts forever and doesn't cost an arm and leg.
Keep us posted on how it works out...
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:44 PM
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Wally... I understand that you are sanding with 500 on a jitter bug for buffing? That is really course for buffing. I usually won't go courser than 1000 for buffing. IMO you are sanding most all of the clear off before trying to buff. I would recommend reclearing the whole thing and then try wet sanding and buffing again. This time use finer paper and wet sand by hand, working up to atleast 1500 paper. I usually go to 2000 or 2500 before buffing. You can get a good shine from BC/CC, but have to have some clear to shine.

Aaron
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