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-   -   Base coat clear coat repair problem (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/base-coat-clear-coat-repair-problem-144486.html)

TimeBandit 09-02-2008 03:43 PM

Base coat clear coat repair problem
 
I need desperate help with a painting problem. I have a 55 Chevrolet 2 door hard top. I painted it about 5 years ago and just got in on the road this summer. I am a welder not a painter although I have had many compliments about the paint job. I sprayed the car with an epoxy primer, I used a base coat DBU blue and used DCU 2042 clear with DCX61 hardener. I put many coats of base and clear although I didn't count how many. Last week, I dropped an ignition coil on the fender and it hit the fender at the exact moment the fender cover slid off. It looks like I only chipped the clear coat as I can see the base blue underneath. Although it looks like a deep chip, the diameter of the chip is the size of a pencil eraser. I have heard stories about base crinkling after new clear is applied. A rep at the auto body paint shop said although I could use a small artist's brush to base coat the blue, I'd have to spray the clear coat. If I need to build up the clear, how do I do that and will it affect the base blue underneath? I would really appreciate any advice on how to repair this without redoing the whole fender.

kenseth17 09-02-2008 05:37 PM

What are you trying to accomplish here, do you plan on respraying, or just doing the best touchup you can?
If the plan was respraying, I wouldn't mess around with trying to blend the clear on a part as small as a fender, and would feather out the chip, wetsand the rest of the fender with 800 and hit the feather with a little epoxy. Next day sand you epoxy spot smooth, spray base till coverage and have a good blend in the area, followed by clearing the rest of the fender. You could probably pull off a pretty sucessfull clear blend and backtape it off on that sharp bodyline on the fender and not reclear the whole thing, but really once your that far, why mess around with backtaping and blending the clear, and not just do the little bit extra sanding and clearing?

Seeing you painted this quite awhile ago and used an activated base, I don't think lifting would be quite as much of a concern as otherwise, but still would spot the featheredge with a little epoxy for insurance, and in case you don't have a perfect featheredge or happened to leave a small divit that would show up after its been painted.

If you planned to touch up with a brush, then you could possilbly get it looking decent by dropping in some activated clear so the level is above the existing clear, and wetsanding it level and then buffing, but likely still see it when you look close. Maybe you won't be happy with it, but really wouldn't take that much to attempt, and if your not happy with it then you could then spray it instead.
If you do happen to need to drop color and its a metallic, it will often be darker if its applied with a brush, then what was sprayed, due to how the metallic settles (sounds like you said you still had color underneath). If you need color in the chip and its a metallic, I'd probably mask around it, spray a little color into the chip. Wetsand off any base overspray around the chip, then drop in your activated clear so the level is above the existing clear. Next day wetsand it level, using a paint stick to back up your paper, and then buff the spot.
If you still have color in the chip, which sounds like is your case. I'd drop in some activated clear with a brush, and then next day level an buff like above.

TimeBandit 09-03-2008 06:22 PM

re: Base coat clear coat problem
 
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I really appreciate your professional help you offered me. I think I am going to try the brush method but I am going to read over your instructions a couple of nights and mull over it before I make any big decision! Thank you again for your help and quick reply.This has been a worrisome problem, and your help has really encouraged me.
Thanks again,
Jim
Timebandit


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